- Joined
- May 21, 2000
- Messages
- 6,172
If anyone has any questions, please let me know and I will add them to the list. Thanks!
Are you accepting orders?
As of 11/6/14 I am accepting a limited number of orders. Wait time for most knives is 1 - 6 months.
Do you require a deposit?
No, I do not require a deposit.
As a general rule, be wary of any maker who requests a deposit. (Unless you are commissioning something extremely unique or unusual.)
If a maker requests a deposit for a relatively inexpensive knife, exercise caution.
Can I go ahead any pay you for my knife?
Sorry, but I do not accept payment until the knife is ready to ship.
Do you make folders?
Yes, I do make folders. Typical prices range from $450 - $650
Do you make kitchen knives?
I make various kitchen knives including nakiri, yanagiba, santoku, parers and western style "chef" knives.
What steel do you typically use?
I use various steels depending on the requirements for the knife. For more stain resistant steels, I like CPM154, S30V, S35VN, AEBL and D2. For my carbon/tool steel blades I generally use 1095, 80CRV2, 5160 and 15N20. Any of these steels will make a great knife. I also offer solid titanium blades as well.
What kind of handle material do you prefer?
I prefer synthetic materials such as G10 or micarta. These materials are extremely durable, and impervious to the elements. I also like cord wrapped handles, as they offer a unique grip texture that is quite effective.
Do you make kydex or leather sheaths?
I construct most of my sheaths from kydex. Kydex offers outstanding knife protection and retention while remaining light weight. I make my kydex sheaths extra tight. This ensures that your knife will be held securely well into the future. They will loosen up a bit eventually.
Many of your knives seem to have really high grinds. Why is this?
High grinds allow for a thinner overall cross section of steel. This creates a thin, yet durable edge geometry that is optimized for cutting. Simply put, thinner knives cut better.
What kind of guarantee do you offer?
My knives are guaranteed against defects in workmanship forever. I will repair or replace your knife as long as I am an active knife maker. This guarantee does not cover intentional or accidental abuse nor normal "wear and tear" or rust. My knives are designed and optimized for the cutting of soft materials only. No prying, no chopping concrete blocks, no cutting open car doors, etc. If you use my knives for these purposes, you will eventually break them.
What thickness should the blade be?
1/8" is more than adequate for the vast majority of tasks. I don't see a need for anything thicker for a basic general EDC knife.
I personally carry knives that are 1/8", 3/32" or 1/16".
Many of my larger blades are 3/16".
My short swords and choppers are 1/4".
My machetes are 3/32".
Can you add your "Rorschach" finish to my knife?
I can make any of my models with the "Rorschach" finish.
Can you make a knife of my own design?
Sorry, but I only produce my own designs.
Does titanium hold an edge?
Titanium does not hold an edge to the extent that a steel knife would. It can be made quite sharp, but edge retention is lower do to the physical properties of titanium. To combat this, I add a layer of carbide along the edge of my titanium knives. Carbide is extremely hard, and significantly increases the edge holding capabilities of titanium.
Do you make chisel ground knives? Are they any better than a "double ground" knife?
Most of my knives are ground on both sides, but I do make chisel ground knives. When properly made, I think that the cutting performace of both are quite similiar. It's mostly personal preference.
What grind do you prefer?
The vast majority of my knives are double hollow grinds. This is my favored grind due to it’s outstanding cutting performance. I also offer full flat grinds and hollow chisel grinds. I generally only offer chisel grinds on Japanese style knives.
Do you ship overseas?
Yes! Overseas shipping generally adds $10 - $20 to the shipping costs.
However, I am not responsible for items lost or damaged in shipping. There are simply too many variables.
I ship via USPS Priority Mail, and they will not allow tracking numbers on international shipments.
My kydex sheath is very tight. Is this normal?
I make my kydex sheaths to be a bit tighter than average. Kydex, like any other material will eventually flex/wear, and the sheath will loosen slightly.
Do you make swords?
Yes! I occasionally make swords; generally in A2 or 5160. Larger pieces are possible, although I can only heat treat blades up to 25” in my shop. Prices start at $1200.
What do you use for heat treat?
I currently own a 27" digital/programmable Even Heat oven. This allows me to maintain very tight tolerances in regard to temperature. As you can imagine, accuracy and consistency are extremely important in regards to heat treating cutlery steel.
I quench steel via several methods. I plate quench all of my stainless steel. My carbon steel blades are quenched in either Parks 50, McMaster Carr 11 Second Oil or brine.
What hardness do you prefer?
For general use blades, 60 - 61 HRC is a good target. For larger blades, swords or choppers, I prefer about 58 HRC.
Are you accepting orders?
As of 11/6/14 I am accepting a limited number of orders. Wait time for most knives is 1 - 6 months.
Do you require a deposit?
No, I do not require a deposit.
As a general rule, be wary of any maker who requests a deposit. (Unless you are commissioning something extremely unique or unusual.)
If a maker requests a deposit for a relatively inexpensive knife, exercise caution.
Can I go ahead any pay you for my knife?
Sorry, but I do not accept payment until the knife is ready to ship.
Do you make folders?
Yes, I do make folders. Typical prices range from $450 - $650
Do you make kitchen knives?
I make various kitchen knives including nakiri, yanagiba, santoku, parers and western style "chef" knives.
What steel do you typically use?
I use various steels depending on the requirements for the knife. For more stain resistant steels, I like CPM154, S30V, S35VN, AEBL and D2. For my carbon/tool steel blades I generally use 1095, 80CRV2, 5160 and 15N20. Any of these steels will make a great knife. I also offer solid titanium blades as well.
What kind of handle material do you prefer?
I prefer synthetic materials such as G10 or micarta. These materials are extremely durable, and impervious to the elements. I also like cord wrapped handles, as they offer a unique grip texture that is quite effective.
Do you make kydex or leather sheaths?
I construct most of my sheaths from kydex. Kydex offers outstanding knife protection and retention while remaining light weight. I make my kydex sheaths extra tight. This ensures that your knife will be held securely well into the future. They will loosen up a bit eventually.
Many of your knives seem to have really high grinds. Why is this?
High grinds allow for a thinner overall cross section of steel. This creates a thin, yet durable edge geometry that is optimized for cutting. Simply put, thinner knives cut better.
What kind of guarantee do you offer?
My knives are guaranteed against defects in workmanship forever. I will repair or replace your knife as long as I am an active knife maker. This guarantee does not cover intentional or accidental abuse nor normal "wear and tear" or rust. My knives are designed and optimized for the cutting of soft materials only. No prying, no chopping concrete blocks, no cutting open car doors, etc. If you use my knives for these purposes, you will eventually break them.
What thickness should the blade be?
1/8" is more than adequate for the vast majority of tasks. I don't see a need for anything thicker for a basic general EDC knife.
I personally carry knives that are 1/8", 3/32" or 1/16".
Many of my larger blades are 3/16".
My short swords and choppers are 1/4".
My machetes are 3/32".
Can you add your "Rorschach" finish to my knife?
I can make any of my models with the "Rorschach" finish.
Can you make a knife of my own design?
Sorry, but I only produce my own designs.
Does titanium hold an edge?
Titanium does not hold an edge to the extent that a steel knife would. It can be made quite sharp, but edge retention is lower do to the physical properties of titanium. To combat this, I add a layer of carbide along the edge of my titanium knives. Carbide is extremely hard, and significantly increases the edge holding capabilities of titanium.
Do you make chisel ground knives? Are they any better than a "double ground" knife?
Most of my knives are ground on both sides, but I do make chisel ground knives. When properly made, I think that the cutting performace of both are quite similiar. It's mostly personal preference.
What grind do you prefer?
The vast majority of my knives are double hollow grinds. This is my favored grind due to it’s outstanding cutting performance. I also offer full flat grinds and hollow chisel grinds. I generally only offer chisel grinds on Japanese style knives.
Do you ship overseas?
Yes! Overseas shipping generally adds $10 - $20 to the shipping costs.
However, I am not responsible for items lost or damaged in shipping. There are simply too many variables.
I ship via USPS Priority Mail, and they will not allow tracking numbers on international shipments.
My kydex sheath is very tight. Is this normal?
I make my kydex sheaths to be a bit tighter than average. Kydex, like any other material will eventually flex/wear, and the sheath will loosen slightly.
Do you make swords?
Yes! I occasionally make swords; generally in A2 or 5160. Larger pieces are possible, although I can only heat treat blades up to 25” in my shop. Prices start at $1200.
What do you use for heat treat?
I currently own a 27" digital/programmable Even Heat oven. This allows me to maintain very tight tolerances in regard to temperature. As you can imagine, accuracy and consistency are extremely important in regards to heat treating cutlery steel.
I quench steel via several methods. I plate quench all of my stainless steel. My carbon steel blades are quenched in either Parks 50, McMaster Carr 11 Second Oil or brine.
What hardness do you prefer?
For general use blades, 60 - 61 HRC is a good target. For larger blades, swords or choppers, I prefer about 58 HRC.
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