I prefer the Diasharp 8"x3" for my DMT stones (XX Coarse, Coarse, Fine). I like them up to 600 grit, then I use either Spyderco ceramics (M,F,UF) or Shapton Glasstones (1000, 2000, and 8000 grit). The Spydercos are less maintenance with great edges, but the Shaptons cut cleaner and faster, especially on harder steels, at the expense of needing a bit of water on the stones (no soaking required) and flattening (your DMT XX Coarse or Coarse Diasharps flatten the stones quick and easy). I personally just prop up my stones to the desired angle and hold my knives parallel to the table to maintain my angle when sharpening, so it is freehand but gives you a good reference to see if you are sharpening near the angle you want. I've never tried the aligner but hear good things about it, but I never really liked having to clamp my knives in a jig (I blame the Lansky for that) and don't think adding in the little bit of convexeing at the very edge that I get from freehand hurts my sharpness or edge retention at all. Using the aligner to get down the basics probably wouldn't be a bad thing, though, as learning to raise and remove burrs is what you need to do in sharpening, and not having to worry about holding the angle makes learning about burrs and removing them easier. Minimizing and removing burrs is what sharpening is all about, so if the aligner helps you get that down I'm all for it. One thing I will recommend is some sort of magnification, preferably lighted. I use a Radioshack 60-100x lighted microscope that allows me to see everything that is going on at the edge, so you know exactly when you have reached the edge at each grit and whether or not you have removed the burr. A 10x loupe near a bright light works very good as well, but seeing what is going on with your edge as you sharpen will be your greatest teacher IMO.
Good Luck. Mike
Mike
