- Joined
- Oct 13, 1999
- Messages
- 567
If I were to get an entry-level belt sander to flat grind knives, what size should I get? Why ARE there different sizes? How is working on a 1x30 different from a 2x42, 2x72 or 4x36?
thanks
thanks
what size of belt grinder???
- Thread starter Summerland
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2000
- Messages
- 101
if i was to buy a grinder i would get a 2 by 72 to start try to keep your grinders using the same belts so you dont have to inventory so many belts i have 4 2by72 grinders plus others
------------------
All that is not Given Is Lost
------------------
All that is not Given Is Lost
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2000
- Messages
- 266
Howdy There Summerland...!
Just to throw my two cents worth, I have two 2x72's and I love them. I started out with a smaller powered 4x36, but it just didn't have the power two do the job correctly. My advice is to spend a little more money and get a good 2x72 to begin with. You will get better results quicker than trying to use something that is right for the task. The 2x72 will cut cooler and quicker with the right grit belts, plus if you get a knifemakers grinder you have the right equipment and you most likely will not get discouraged from the start of your knife making. I know that I really took off with my knife making after I purchased my first 2x72 grinder, it was almost as different as day and night, as to what you could make. Good luck with your purchase, hope that this has helped.
"Possum"
------------------
Thomas Clegg
Just to throw my two cents worth, I have two 2x72's and I love them. I started out with a smaller powered 4x36, but it just didn't have the power two do the job correctly. My advice is to spend a little more money and get a good 2x72 to begin with. You will get better results quicker than trying to use something that is right for the task. The 2x72 will cut cooler and quicker with the right grit belts, plus if you get a knifemakers grinder you have the right equipment and you most likely will not get discouraged from the start of your knife making. I know that I really took off with my knife making after I purchased my first 2x72 grinder, it was almost as different as day and night, as to what you could make. Good luck with your purchase, hope that this has helped.
"Possum"
------------------
Thomas Clegg
- Joined
- Oct 13, 1999
- Messages
- 567
thanks, all!
To be more specific--is it just the power of the motor that matters, or does the length and width of the belt matter as well? Is it just a case of "I can get belts in size AxB cheaper and easier", or "most good machines use size AxB", or is it physically different when grinding?
To be more specific--is it just the power of the motor that matters, or does the length and width of the belt matter as well? Is it just a case of "I can get belts in size AxB cheaper and easier", or "most good machines use size AxB", or is it physically different when grinding?
2X72 is the most common size, more variety and better prices might be had in this size, longer belts last longer. "There is no substitute for power." Tim Allan
Look in the archives for more info on grinders.
Have you made any knives?
------------------
Sola Fide
Look in the archives for more info on grinders.
Have you made any knives?
------------------
Sola Fide
If I can throw my .05 cents Canadian (worth about .02 cents American
) into the pot I would strongly suggest that you start with a machine that is a 1.5 HP or more and that you get a variable speed controller (either with the machine or if you have the skill build one yourself).
You need the horse power to avoid stalling the belt on a platen ( and the subsequent galling and gouging that goes along with that little mess) and a way to slow the belt down on the higher grits. Less heat and more polishing at the lower speeds.
Buy the BEST belts you can afford and use every one of them until they're nothing but canvas
. There is an application for almost every belt at every stage of degradation. I use old worn out 600 and 1200 grit belts to re-establish the secondary bevels on blades that I sharpen for folks in the area.
I'm really new at this blade making thing and I'm having a blast doing it. I have yet to build a knife that I'm satisfied with and I think that in another 10 or 15 years I might start to get the hang of it
I got the BUG and I got it Bad!!
All the Best
DIleas Gu Brath
You need the horse power to avoid stalling the belt on a platen ( and the subsequent galling and gouging that goes along with that little mess) and a way to slow the belt down on the higher grits. Less heat and more polishing at the lower speeds.
Buy the BEST belts you can afford and use every one of them until they're nothing but canvas
I'm really new at this blade making thing and I'm having a blast doing it. I have yet to build a knife that I'm satisfied with and I think that in another 10 or 15 years I might start to get the hang of it
I got the BUG and I got it Bad!!
All the Best
DIleas Gu Brath
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 5,855
Guess I'm gonna be the odd ball in this thread!!
I would suggest a good 6 by 48 with a 9" disc sander on it. I do all my flat grinding on my 6 by for two reasons. It runs slower than my Wilton and with a 6" wide platen gives me alot more control than on the 2" platent on my Wilton. I tried flat grinding on the Wilton and just ended up with alot of grooves in the blade from it catching the edge.
Also, since most 6 by's come with a disc sander on them, you can use that for shaping the outside curves of the blades and handles and squaring things up and even dovetailing the handles and bolsters. If you get one with a 9" disc, you can save some money by using regular sheet sandpaper and some spray on adhesive.
You'll need to get some sanding drums or something similar to shape and clean up the inside curves, but you're talking 1/4th the investment as opposed to buying a Wilton or other comparable 2 by 72 grinder. I bought mine from harbor frieght for $149 on sale, and even tho I hate buying anything foriegn made, it has performed extremely well, and I have a tendancy to push my tools hard.
The best place I've found to buy sanding belts and sand paper is G.L. Pearce Abrasives. You can find their add in the back of Blade magazine. He sells very good quality alumin oxide belts. The last 6 by 48's I bought were $3.45 or so. He sells 100 count packs of wet dry sandpaper for $25. If you do end up buying anything from harbor frieght, don't waste your money on their belts. They are absolute garbage!
Just wanted to let you know there are alternatives to the $1,000 grinders.
One more thing, even tho they are cheaper, I wouldn't mess with anything smaller than the 6 by. All they'll do is drive you nuts and you'll just replace them anyway. Hope you get into knifemaking! It can be a very satisfying craft and can also drive you flat nuts!!
------------------
Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
I would suggest a good 6 by 48 with a 9" disc sander on it. I do all my flat grinding on my 6 by for two reasons. It runs slower than my Wilton and with a 6" wide platen gives me alot more control than on the 2" platent on my Wilton. I tried flat grinding on the Wilton and just ended up with alot of grooves in the blade from it catching the edge.
Also, since most 6 by's come with a disc sander on them, you can use that for shaping the outside curves of the blades and handles and squaring things up and even dovetailing the handles and bolsters. If you get one with a 9" disc, you can save some money by using regular sheet sandpaper and some spray on adhesive.
You'll need to get some sanding drums or something similar to shape and clean up the inside curves, but you're talking 1/4th the investment as opposed to buying a Wilton or other comparable 2 by 72 grinder. I bought mine from harbor frieght for $149 on sale, and even tho I hate buying anything foriegn made, it has performed extremely well, and I have a tendancy to push my tools hard.
The best place I've found to buy sanding belts and sand paper is G.L. Pearce Abrasives. You can find their add in the back of Blade magazine. He sells very good quality alumin oxide belts. The last 6 by 48's I bought were $3.45 or so. He sells 100 count packs of wet dry sandpaper for $25. If you do end up buying anything from harbor frieght, don't waste your money on their belts. They are absolute garbage!
Just wanted to let you know there are alternatives to the $1,000 grinders.
One more thing, even tho they are cheaper, I wouldn't mess with anything smaller than the 6 by. All they'll do is drive you nuts and you'll just replace them anyway. Hope you get into knifemaking! It can be a very satisfying craft and can also drive you flat nuts!!
------------------
Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
- Joined
- Mar 18, 1999
- Messages
- 2,112
I have a 6X48 in my shop and put a larger pulley on the motor to speed it up. I use it primarily for flattening stock but it could be set up for flat grinding if I desired. It should work fairly well.
If you do decide to go with an entry level 2X72 grinder, I suppose the choices would be the Kalamazoo that K&G sells, the Grizzly knifemaker's grinder or the Coote. Quite a few folks on this forum have Grizzly's and would be better qualified to answer any questions about them than I would. I believe that Allen Blade uses a Grizzly with some success. I did my first knife on a Craftsman 4X36. We all have to start some where.
The secret to flat grinding (if there ever was one) on a 2 inch wide belt is taking it to about 220 or 320 grit and then followed by handwork the full length of the blade. It doesn't take as long as you would think.
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 08-06-2000).]
If you do decide to go with an entry level 2X72 grinder, I suppose the choices would be the Kalamazoo that K&G sells, the Grizzly knifemaker's grinder or the Coote. Quite a few folks on this forum have Grizzly's and would be better qualified to answer any questions about them than I would. I believe that Allen Blade uses a Grizzly with some success. I did my first knife on a Craftsman 4X36. We all have to start some where.
The secret to flat grinding (if there ever was one) on a 2 inch wide belt is taking it to about 220 or 320 grit and then followed by handwork the full length of the blade. It doesn't take as long as you would think.
[This message has been edited by C L Wilkins (edited 08-06-2000).]