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Like the tittle says what would you like in a back packing/ hiking knife?
What would you like in a hiking back packing knife
- Thread starter dogwood dan
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Most backpackers are weight-weenies. I say this as a life-long backpacker since the age of the eight. We're the guys who trim down the handles on our toothbrushes to save an ounce and buy titanium pots because they weigh a few grams less than aluminium. Crazy!
So, as far as handle material goes, shoot for something light-weight; reasonable durability and low (or no) maintenance are also good, but most backpackers will sacrifice some durability for lighter weight. My lightest fixed-blade is a Sugar Creek Woodie and that's what I'll probably take on a backpacking trip to Mt. San Jacinto next week.
If you really want to appeal to backpackers and hikers, you might want to consider no handle material at all and a skeletonized handle section that you can wrap paracord around; I think ESEE and Kabar make something like that.
Just a thought. I've seen your work and actually bought one of your Sidekick models from someone on a different forum. Whatever you choose to do, I'm sure it will be interesting, well thought-out and of great workmanship.
Eric G.
So, as far as handle material goes, shoot for something light-weight; reasonable durability and low (or no) maintenance are also good, but most backpackers will sacrifice some durability for lighter weight. My lightest fixed-blade is a Sugar Creek Woodie and that's what I'll probably take on a backpacking trip to Mt. San Jacinto next week.
If you really want to appeal to backpackers and hikers, you might want to consider no handle material at all and a skeletonized handle section that you can wrap paracord around; I think ESEE and Kabar make something like that.
Just a thought. I've seen your work and actually bought one of your Sidekick models from someone on a different forum. Whatever you choose to do, I'm sure it will be interesting, well thought-out and of great workmanship.
Eric G.
My favorite backpacking "knife" is none other than Fiddleback's 12" machete. It fits perfectly as horizontal carry on my Maxpedition Kodiak. It's an excellent chopper despite the fact it is small and light enough to be a decent enough knife for most bushcrafty stuff.
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Thanks for the info! I hope you enjoy the side kick, I used the same blade profile on my trail hiker. Andy and I have been working with some hidden tang desinges to cut waight. How do you feel about 1/8" blades?
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I have backpacked for years and have designed and made a several knives for this purpose, but am always looking for new things to try.
As a backpacker, there are a few items you always choose to ignore the weight issue and rearrange your priorities to consider, utility, durability, function or safety. A knife is one of those items that I don't really make weight a priority but it certainly is at least the second or third most important issue. I would carry a few more ounces in order to guarantee that the tool I had was ready for the trip I was on. I suppose that you are asking about the design of a fixed blade knife. On backpacking trips, I have carried fixed blades knives with blades ranging from 4" to about 2.25", the latter being a neck knife. If I am on a trip where I don't plan on building fires for cooking, then I carry a smaller knife, usually the neck knife or some reliable locking folder. Nothing very heavy but reliable and of high quality. If I am looking for something that is more substantial and I plan on making more than light use, then I will carry a bigger knife with a 3.5" to 4" blade. I carried my Fallkniven F1 on a 75 mile trip and was very pleased with the performance and never felt I needed anything else. Recently, I have purchased an ESEE 4 for which I will reshape the handle some to fit my needs. I've also packed some other fixed blades both manufactured and handmade, a couple I designed and made. I have recently begun thinking back to my youth and considering some of the utility and function of carbon (non-stainless) blades, hence the ESEE 4 purchase, and mulling over features of survival/bushcraft knives for use as I go backpacking. One of the problems with non-stainless blades is the amount of care that is necessary. When backpacking, you sometimes don't have the means nor the opportunity to care for things as you would like. Sometimes the situations are not in my control. I have been caught in downpours where everything was soaked and remained so for a day. So even though I romanticize taking carbon steels with me, the practicality of doing so is probably a serious issue. Before I give the specs, let me say that the purpose of the knife I carry for backpacking would be a general purpose utility blade that could be used for some unexpected survival situations if called on to do so. In spite of this latter requirement, I don't mean to say that this would be the ultimate survival knife but a compromise. I would think it as a great utility knife with features that would make it usable in survival situations but also can do some lightweight campcraft/bushcraft chores. So, here are the specifications I would make for a made-to-order backpacking do-it-all fixed blade.
* OAL 8" to 8.5" with a 3.75" to 4" blade, thickness of the blade is 1/8" or 5/32" with a nice distal taper. 3/16" thickness is really too heavy for backpacking.
* Grind should be full-flat or Moran-style, not hollow ground nor full convex. Hollow ground blades are weak and full convex adds more weight without more function. The full-flat is the best all-round for cutting but the Moran-style (flat grind with convex edge) is a good compromise if more bushcraft chores are required. The problem with convex edges in the field is that the edge is a bit harder to maintain the fine convex edge using minimal equipment. I prefer full-flat grind because of the ease of edge maintenance while on a backpacking trip.
* For blade shape, I prefer a drop point for general purpose.
* Blade material is probably best with stainless or semi-stainless steels for practical reasons. I think a good carbon steel is great for putting the edge back easily and most carbon steels can withstand lots of abuse, but when backpacking, one can't just go back to the truck or cabin to get dry. Unfortunately, the abuse when backpacking is the elements and rusting with carbon steels, so I would like something with alloys to provide semi-stainlessness such as CPM-3V. Some of the super stainless steels would be good too but I am not sure of the durability when mildly abused. Again, CPM-3V seems to fit this criteria. If 3V is not an option, then some of the alloyed non-stainless carbon steels that provide some resistance to rusting and endure some limited exposure to the elements would be best.
* As far as the handle, tapered tang would provide the best for weight reduction and durability. If not tapered then a lightened handle (drilled tang) would be good because again the knife will be used in lightweight bushcraft and camp chores but not in situations where heavy abuse is needed. Handle material would be best to be light. Something durable in 1/8" scales such as Micarta would be ideal because it is almost impervious to the elements. A dense wood is lighter still, such as Cocobolo, but not as durable. To me the handle must be durable but also functional (comfortable). This is where I might compromise and allow an ounce or two.
* Sheath should be kydex for durability.
What do you have in mind? I would like to know because I have looked at some of your knives before and considered them for backpacking and other outdoor activities.
As a backpacker, there are a few items you always choose to ignore the weight issue and rearrange your priorities to consider, utility, durability, function or safety. A knife is one of those items that I don't really make weight a priority but it certainly is at least the second or third most important issue. I would carry a few more ounces in order to guarantee that the tool I had was ready for the trip I was on. I suppose that you are asking about the design of a fixed blade knife. On backpacking trips, I have carried fixed blades knives with blades ranging from 4" to about 2.25", the latter being a neck knife. If I am on a trip where I don't plan on building fires for cooking, then I carry a smaller knife, usually the neck knife or some reliable locking folder. Nothing very heavy but reliable and of high quality. If I am looking for something that is more substantial and I plan on making more than light use, then I will carry a bigger knife with a 3.5" to 4" blade. I carried my Fallkniven F1 on a 75 mile trip and was very pleased with the performance and never felt I needed anything else. Recently, I have purchased an ESEE 4 for which I will reshape the handle some to fit my needs. I've also packed some other fixed blades both manufactured and handmade, a couple I designed and made. I have recently begun thinking back to my youth and considering some of the utility and function of carbon (non-stainless) blades, hence the ESEE 4 purchase, and mulling over features of survival/bushcraft knives for use as I go backpacking. One of the problems with non-stainless blades is the amount of care that is necessary. When backpacking, you sometimes don't have the means nor the opportunity to care for things as you would like. Sometimes the situations are not in my control. I have been caught in downpours where everything was soaked and remained so for a day. So even though I romanticize taking carbon steels with me, the practicality of doing so is probably a serious issue. Before I give the specs, let me say that the purpose of the knife I carry for backpacking would be a general purpose utility blade that could be used for some unexpected survival situations if called on to do so. In spite of this latter requirement, I don't mean to say that this would be the ultimate survival knife but a compromise. I would think it as a great utility knife with features that would make it usable in survival situations but also can do some lightweight campcraft/bushcraft chores. So, here are the specifications I would make for a made-to-order backpacking do-it-all fixed blade.
* OAL 8" to 8.5" with a 3.75" to 4" blade, thickness of the blade is 1/8" or 5/32" with a nice distal taper. 3/16" thickness is really too heavy for backpacking.
* Grind should be full-flat or Moran-style, not hollow ground nor full convex. Hollow ground blades are weak and full convex adds more weight without more function. The full-flat is the best all-round for cutting but the Moran-style (flat grind with convex edge) is a good compromise if more bushcraft chores are required. The problem with convex edges in the field is that the edge is a bit harder to maintain the fine convex edge using minimal equipment. I prefer full-flat grind because of the ease of edge maintenance while on a backpacking trip.
* For blade shape, I prefer a drop point for general purpose.
* Blade material is probably best with stainless or semi-stainless steels for practical reasons. I think a good carbon steel is great for putting the edge back easily and most carbon steels can withstand lots of abuse, but when backpacking, one can't just go back to the truck or cabin to get dry. Unfortunately, the abuse when backpacking is the elements and rusting with carbon steels, so I would like something with alloys to provide semi-stainlessness such as CPM-3V. Some of the super stainless steels would be good too but I am not sure of the durability when mildly abused. Again, CPM-3V seems to fit this criteria. If 3V is not an option, then some of the alloyed non-stainless carbon steels that provide some resistance to rusting and endure some limited exposure to the elements would be best.
* As far as the handle, tapered tang would provide the best for weight reduction and durability. If not tapered then a lightened handle (drilled tang) would be good because again the knife will be used in lightweight bushcraft and camp chores but not in situations where heavy abuse is needed. Handle material would be best to be light. Something durable in 1/8" scales such as Micarta would be ideal because it is almost impervious to the elements. A dense wood is lighter still, such as Cocobolo, but not as durable. To me the handle must be durable but also functional (comfortable). This is where I might compromise and allow an ounce or two.
* Sheath should be kydex for durability.
What do you have in mind? I would like to know because I have looked at some of your knives before and considered them for backpacking and other outdoor activities.
I wish that some knifemaker would make a knife with a tip radius and blade heel radius that match the vertical cross section of a peanut butter jar, a skeletonized handle would be ok. Maybe make the handle a little long so you can scrape the inside of a nalgene bottle too. Maybe have a razor tipped roach belly blade, but the spine shaped as an efficient jar scraper. I don't really need a pointy tipped knife, but there has to be an answer for the forever old camp quest to get that last bit of peanut butter that is just enough to finish the last bare spot on your cracker out of the jar. Few survival problems can compare.
wildmanh
Part time Leather Bender/Sheath maker
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Thin stock, light comfortable handle (hidden or exposed) and a 4"+ blade sounds good. As for blade shape, I have no clue. I tend to favor drop point and clip points the best but don't know whats popular with the Backpackers these days.
I normally carry a 4"+ fixed blade along with a folder and machete or Khukri when Backpacking or on a long hike. Recently I've been carrying a SOG Hunter Revolver (4.75" long, 1/8" thick blade), a Buck 119 or a WWII Western Shark knife.The last two are 5/32" thin. So mostly thinner medium length knives. If I didn't have so many nice knives in that size range, I'd be carrying a Modified Old Hickory carving knife. They have about a 6" blade of 1/8" thin 1095, a simple wood handle that needs shaping, they don't weight or cost much. A higher end knife like that IMO is the ticket.
I normally carry a 4"+ fixed blade along with a folder and machete or Khukri when Backpacking or on a long hike. Recently I've been carrying a SOG Hunter Revolver (4.75" long, 1/8" thick blade), a Buck 119 or a WWII Western Shark knife.The last two are 5/32" thin. So mostly thinner medium length knives. If I didn't have so many nice knives in that size range, I'd be carrying a Modified Old Hickory carving knife. They have about a 6" blade of 1/8" thin 1095, a simple wood handle that needs shaping, they don't weight or cost much. A higher end knife like that IMO is the ticket.
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I am looking at something like this with a rounded tip and a slight drop point so the tip comes up to about 1/3 the distance to the spine. It function like a spear point but with the tip hirer one gets a better slicing motion. the blade in 4-3/4" I may go a bet longer as G.P. but I want to keep it under 5"
View attachment 274089
this as a light duty knife I am playing with
View attachment 274090
I am also working on a few things that are completely deferent, my wife has ben out of town so I have spent a lot of time with my note books and something is trying hard to come out I am just not certain what it is yet.
witch of my knives have you looked at and what features did you not like and what did you like ( i am a big boy so you can be honest)
thank you for your feed back
Dan
View attachment 274089
this as a light duty knife I am playing with
View attachment 274090
I am also working on a few things that are completely deferent, my wife has ben out of town so I have spent a lot of time with my note books and something is trying hard to come out I am just not certain what it is yet.
witch of my knives have you looked at and what features did you not like and what did you like ( i am a big boy so you can be honest)
thank you for your feed back
Dan
I personally want the blade no more than 1/8".
As for grind I like scandi grind or full flat ground with standard V edge. A bit of belly for slicing.
I prefer about 3.5" blade and 4" handle with very little ricasso...so as to keep the most leverage for cutting.
Handle material: something I don't have to worry about. So G10 is good for me, but I also like the feel of textured micarta (canvas?). I personally have larger hands and really prefer a thick handle for comfortable use.
Like the last post, a tapered tang would be a great way to save weight. Also replacing the pins with large holes (lanyard holes?) would save weight and allow you to attach it to something (spear I guess if one happens to be into that).
Maybe I can use your last knife as a reference. I really liked the look of your trail hiker (green G10 handled one) but with a few mods.
-about .5" shorter in the blade and .5" shorter in the handle
-more belly to the blade (may not be an issue if the blade was slightly shorter since I think that would increase the belly)
-thicker handle
I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Keep us informed.
As for grind I like scandi grind or full flat ground with standard V edge. A bit of belly for slicing.
I prefer about 3.5" blade and 4" handle with very little ricasso...so as to keep the most leverage for cutting.
Handle material: something I don't have to worry about. So G10 is good for me, but I also like the feel of textured micarta (canvas?). I personally have larger hands and really prefer a thick handle for comfortable use.
Like the last post, a tapered tang would be a great way to save weight. Also replacing the pins with large holes (lanyard holes?) would save weight and allow you to attach it to something (spear I guess if one happens to be into that).
Maybe I can use your last knife as a reference. I really liked the look of your trail hiker (green G10 handled one) but with a few mods.
-about .5" shorter in the blade and .5" shorter in the handle
-more belly to the blade (may not be an issue if the blade was slightly shorter since I think that would increase the belly)
-thicker handle
I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Keep us informed.
I love the Sidekick.
I think a 1/8" blade is a great thickness for this type of application. I suppose I'd go with a full flat grind, as this would save some weight...right? I'm still learning about grinds, etc. A thicker blade would seem to be unnecessary for a backpacking/hiking knife.
ERG
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I agree with most of the other posts.
Something 1/8" or 5/32" with a full flat grind. I would like to see some kind of super stainless...Maybe S30V, S35VN, and 154CM. Also D2 is a pretty good choice. I have had a few folders that are D2 and they hold an edge for a really long time. However D2 is really hard to sharpen without some stones. It has a little bit more corrosion resistance than O1.
As for handle materials I have always loved the look of wood. Maybe stabilized? I have really loved the look of the coffee sack burlap that Andy has been using on some of his handles lately. I am always a big fan of the layered black and blue G10 handles. A carbon fiber fixed blade handle would be pretty sweet for keeping the weight down...However I have heard that carbon fiber is a pain in the A$$ to work with.
I REALLY love the shape and design of my Fiddleback buschcrafter! The only thing I would like to try is having it a little thinner...I think it is 3/16" now. Sometimes when I am trying to do cooking related tasks with it...It is a little thick for cutting vegetables and harder things.
Something 1/8" or 5/32" with a full flat grind. I would like to see some kind of super stainless...Maybe S30V, S35VN, and 154CM. Also D2 is a pretty good choice. I have had a few folders that are D2 and they hold an edge for a really long time. However D2 is really hard to sharpen without some stones. It has a little bit more corrosion resistance than O1.
As for handle materials I have always loved the look of wood. Maybe stabilized? I have really loved the look of the coffee sack burlap that Andy has been using on some of his handles lately. I am always a big fan of the layered black and blue G10 handles. A carbon fiber fixed blade handle would be pretty sweet for keeping the weight down...However I have heard that carbon fiber is a pain in the A$$ to work with.
I REALLY love the shape and design of my Fiddleback buschcrafter! The only thing I would like to try is having it a little thinner...I think it is 3/16" now. Sometimes when I am trying to do cooking related tasks with it...It is a little thick for cutting vegetables and harder things.
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I'de say weight is a priority, slim profile, spearpt. 7" OAL, I would still like to see scales for the handle though. Synthetic materials only, if I'm walking in the rain all day, I don't want to worry about this blade. I would also like it to be upside down vertical carry on the shoulder strap. I can clip it on the vertical straps of my shoulder strap and it's right there. I don't like keeping it buried in a pocket somewhere. Map, lighter, GPS, and knife all need to be right there. I would like it to be some kind of stainless but it doensn't need to be 1 of the new crazy steels. 12c27 Sanvik comes to mind, cpm154. Backpacking for me is, 4-8 nights covering 7-12 miles a day, staying where the water is, lake, creek, spring, etc. I carry around 40lbs. food being the big variable, everything else is pretty much the same whether 2 nights or 7. Knife purposes would be just general use, paracord, string cutting, some food prep, gear repair, some drilling, bandage trimming, (there is always blisters). I've been searching for a fixed balde, over the last couple of years, without success to meet my requirments. Obviuosly, a kydex sheath with various mount options is needed for my requirements. 1/8" is plenty thick for my needs even a little thinner would be better. The closest I've seen to meet my needs has been a Benchmade dive knife ( now unavailable), but it's kydex sheath was too bulky. Something like a mini bushcrafter comes to mind. I'll be looking forwad to see what you come up with.
Regards, Randy
"You can bring whatever you want, as long as you carry it"
"If you think that would be nice to have, leave it at home"
#1 thing you bring too much of = FOOD
Most common injury besides blisters, and common slips trips and falls, and head konks = losing a toenail, cause your boots are too small, 40lbs. on your back flattens your feet some
Regards, Randy
"You can bring whatever you want, as long as you carry it"
"If you think that would be nice to have, leave it at home"
#1 thing you bring too much of = FOOD
Most common injury besides blisters, and common slips trips and falls, and head konks = losing a toenail, cause your boots are too small, 40lbs. on your back flattens your feet some
Last edited:
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Dan,
Explain to me what you think a 'Backpacker' would be doing with this knife? I combine bushcrafting skills when I have a backpack on - but if you are talking about a Appalachian Trail style hike - that is different.
Give me some perimeters please.
TF
Explain to me what you think a 'Backpacker' would be doing with this knife? I combine bushcrafting skills when I have a backpack on - but if you are talking about a Appalachian Trail style hike - that is different.
Give me some perimeters please.
TF
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I think 1/8" or 5/32" FFG would make a great knife for backpacking. I know others have mentioned wanting a 7.5" OAL with a shorter blade, but I feel when you get into shorter length blades/knives, you open up your choices too, such as a high quality folder. When I carry a fixed blade backpacking, I have the intention of needing it and so would prefer 8" to 8.5", but again this is just the preference I have.
I am anxious to see what you come up with now.
I am anxious to see what you come up with now.
I like the Mission MPS 10. It's strong, light, and very resistant to corrosion. You can remove the Hytrel grips to reduce the weight. The tang is skeletonized so you wrap cord through and around it. The blade is 5" long and 1/4" thick. The handle is 5" long. The knife with grips weighs 207gm. The Kydex sheath weighs 137gm. The total weight is 12oz. Even the Seals like them.
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Something like this: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...t-backpacker-companion?highlight=light+weight
I think Defaultuser really nailed it with that one.
Brandon
I think Defaultuser really nailed it with that one.
Brandon
I've done a lot of backpacking and usually carried a very light Gerber LST. I don't recall that I used the knife for anything serious, maybe opening a food package or something like that. We carried our own stoves and tents so we didn't need to build fires or shelter. I would think that if we had need of emergency equipment we would have more use for a small multitool to fix our stove or pack or tent. Backpacking now as a knife enthusiast I might carry a more susbtantial knife, probably a small fixed blade, and probably a small multitool. If I was going to carry something more substantial than a small folder then I would do so with the idea that I would need a stronger tool and thus I would probably carry something with carbon steel.
Weight is important though. I have a lot of experience and know what to take but when I've had newer people go with me I have dumped out their packs and gone through them item by item to make sure they aren't taking unnecessary items.
Weight is important though. I have a lot of experience and know what to take but when I've had newer people go with me I have dumped out their packs and gone through them item by item to make sure they aren't taking unnecessary items.