WIP - Sheath for Seionage's first knife

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Nov 1, 2010
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Let me start this thread by stating that I am still very new at making sheaths (it will become VERY apparent throughout this WIP). So I think instead of this as an opportunity for people to critique/comment and help improve my process for making a sheath, than for me to try and tech anyone anything. This is by no means the only or necessarily the correct way to make a simple sheath, but it's how I figured it out for myself. YMMV.

Ok, now that we have the expectation setting out of the way, let me set some context around this sheath, and the WIP.

Seionage recently completed his first knife, a true beauty, but does not have any experience nor the tools to make a sheath. So I volunteered to make him one. He then took the liberty of asking me to do this as a WIP - no problem. You can read all about how he made it here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=800197

And here is a pic of the knife he made:

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One more thing to level set before we dive in - the sheath is already done. I took a lot of pics as I went along, but wanted to complete it while I had momentum, and then do this WIP afterwards.

So, without any further ado, lets get started.

Seionage sent me a pretty accurate template of the knife made from wood. We both thought it was a good idea to avoid trusting his knife to USPS if we didn't need to.

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I start by making a cardboard template of the sheath. First, I trace the knife profile onto cardboard:

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Next, draw the profile of the sheath:

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I'll spare you the boring details of tracing the profile to the other side of the cardboard and cutting it out (yes, I actually do have picture of this :) ). But you basically end up with this:

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Next, trace the profile onto the leather pice, and cut it out:

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I try to leave enough room so that I can cut the welt out of the cutoff of the sheath leather (less cutting and less waste :) - win-win). I then trace onto the leather, and cut out the welt:

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eionage sent me a few samples of sheaths that he liked, and we agreed to a basket-weave stamping pattern on it. So, lets get stamping!

Make sure the leather is damp, and stays damp throughout the stamping process - it's much easier, and leaves much better impressions, IMHO.:

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Start by tracing out the border and the centerline on the leather:

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I then make very light impressions with my border stamping tool to give me a starting point for the basket weave stamp. I wanted to do a diagonal weave patter, and the easiest way for me to make sure I keep a straight line when stamping is to start on the centerline, and work my way down to either edge. To get the diagonal pattern, I put the one corner of the stamp on the line, and the opposite corner on the other end (I can;t really explain it - look at the pic):

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The end of the stamp then goes next to the end of the previous impression, and so on and so forth. Row 1 complete:

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Row 2 started, you can see the weaving pattern starting to emerge:

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Row 2 complete:

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Row 3 complete:

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It starts getting a little tricky when you get to the edges . You have to angle the stamp so that you don't visibly stamp over the border:

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One half complete:

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Remember to keep the leather damp while you stamp! Other half complete:

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Edges stamped:

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I then wet the fold line for the belt loop, and fold it over. My 20lb granite block is a nice weight to make sure it gets squished nice and flat! I could probably have waited until after I stained the leather, but I got new stain, and I didn't know how the water was going to affect it - turns out it doesn't :) I also cut the line for the welt stitching with my stitching groover. I also trace this on the welt to make sure the spacing is the same.

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Next up - mark where the stitching holes will be. I start at a point where I know the stitching needs to go through (the center of the v in this case), and use my 4-prong stitching chisel to determine the spacing for the stitching:

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Next, I stamp the stitching holes. I know there are people who say that you should only stamp it after everything is glued up, but I don't like doing this for two reasons. 1 - It's hard work. 2 - It makes too much noise (I don't like working in my cold basement workshop if I can help it, and I have a 2 year old and an 8 week old, so I cant make too much noise).

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I also stamp the holes in the welt, by using the sheath holes as a template:

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Next, I stamp the holes in the belt loop, but first marking the location of the holes with the stitching groover, and then stamping them with the chisel.

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Transfer the holes to the sheath, and we're ready for stain:

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This was the first time I've used this stain, and I am VERY impressed. Goes on very easily, penetrates deep, and dries quickly. There's also almost no streaking, and you can't see any streaking after the second coat! I'll be using this stuff again:

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After three or so coats of stain, I stitched up the belt loop. I use the stitching method where you basically weave the thread through the stitching holes from both sides, which in essence means that you have two pieces of thread holding everything together, in stead of just one. I've been known to occasionally over-engineer things, so I double stitch all my stitches as well (i.e. I go around twice, which means I have 4 strands holding everything together). More on this a little later:

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Next up, gluing in the welt. I use Weldwood Contact glue. It's very easy to use (if you're careful) - spread it on both contact surfaces, wait at least 10 minutes, and stick them together - et voila! Extremely strong bond, even on leather. I use a few needles to make sure I have all the holes lined up correctly:

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After the glue-up:

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Next up - staining the inside of the sheath - I'm not a very big fan of sheaths that are unstained on the inside - it looks like a mass-produced product then to me. I do make sure that I don't get any stain where the glue for the welt needs to go. I'm not sure if it will compromise the integrity of the glue (it shouldn't, but I don't want to take any chances):

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Making sure everything lines up before I start glueing and stitching (yes, I know I use needles a lot):

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Glue applied - no turning back now:

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Have I mentioned that I use needles a lot during this phase of the build? :) I like to make sure everything is lined up correctly. The contact glue helps to keep the needles in while I start stitching. I want to end up with the stitching at the hilt, and I like to double-stitch (Actually quadruple stitch), so I'll end up here again.

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Making progress:

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One way complete - this was the easy part. Doubling back is the hard part, and I use a pair of needle-nose pliers to help me thread the cord back to the starting point:

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Back at the starting point! It took at least twice as long to come back with the stitching than going out... All done now!

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And this is the reason why you need lots of needles!

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Test fit with the knife template. It fits with a fair amount of effort, which is actually good, because as we all know leather stretches over time. I will also make everything wet so that I can form it around the template. I do this before I finish everything off, so that I ensure I get a consistent finish:

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Next up - cleaning up the welt, and finishing everything off:

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Now for cleaning up the welt. This is what the welt looks like after the stitching - nothing has been cleaned up yet.

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I turn the Craftsman 2 x 42" flat when I finish the welt. It makes it easier for me to get to the bottom wheel. With a fancy grinder, this would obviously not be required.

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I use a very worn out 180 grit belt to get everything flat:

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Close up:

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I then use a completely worn 400 grit belt to smooth everything down:

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I then use the edge beveler (read: utility knife) to trim off the edges. I try to get a uniform 45 degree angle that is about 1/16" wide on all the edges. It doesn't have to be perfect, because we'll smooth it all over in a few minutes.

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Next, I stain the welt and go over everything with an additional coat of stain:

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Close up:

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Almost time to wrap up this build! Only a few more steps - smooth over the edges and the welt and then apply the final finish!

I use gum tragacanth to smooth over the edges, as well as a small burnishing disc:

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I didn't take any pictures of actually burnishing the edges - nothing really to photograph. Its a very simple process - rub a small amount of gum tragacanth into the edge with your finger, wait about a minute, and then rub it briskly with the burnishing disc. Pretty quickly the edge becomes smooth and shiny - like the one below!

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I also use the gum tragacanth to smooth the leather on the belt loop.

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The edges are now all smoothed over, and I'm ready to apply the topcoat. There are a plethora of options for top coats. I personally like something waxy. Every article of leather that I own that might get exposed to water (hunting boots, etc) gets treated with this stuff. It's basically a beeswax and bear fat mix that I found on some obscure website a couple of years ago. I melt it first, and then rub it into the leather with a rag while it is still molten. It buffs up very nicely, doesn't soften the leather too much (I've been using this on my gun leather for a couple of years, and it's still very stiff), and does a great job of waterproofing. I'm sure acrylic resolene will probably do a better job of water proofing but I don't like using it too much - it feels a but plastic-ey to me.

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Finish applied (I'll apply one more coat tomorrow before shipping it to Seionage), and its all done!

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Any comments and critique are very welcomed. Please don't hold back. I'm a big boy and won't cry too much! I really want to learn and improve, so please comment.

Thanks for bearing with me through this WIP!
 
I appreciate you taking the time to post this.. It is really helpful to me as I'm just starting into leathercraft. Appreciate it! VERY good job IMO.
 
Can you post links to where you purchased the leather making supplies? Absolutely love it.

thank you soo much!
 
Hi Dave,

Glad you like it.

I bought most of my stuff either from Tandy or Springfield Leather. I am sure there are better quality tools out there, I just don't know where to find them online. The tools I have are pretty basic, as you can see, but they do get the job done. There are a few more tools that I would like to get, though:
Edging tool
A few more stamps (letters, etc).
Better hammer (I use a rubber mallet at the moment, but it is a bit soft)
 
Nice "play by play" there! :) I've done one and its a lot of work, well done.

Only a few things I'd add to the list of need to do's.

When you dye the inside of a sheath you always want to coat it with something, the dye will migrate to the handle if you don't, especially black. But since its put together you can use thin liquids like Leather Balm with Atom Wax, pour it in and carefully coat the inside.

The lines of your sheath are so round and smooth, but the belt loop is squared, round it off and you'll notice a vast improvement in the overall eye appeal of the whole sheath. The closed stitch is also a weak point of anchor, I know it doesn't make sense but its true.

Otherwise its a nice package! Very well done and it looks like your on your way to being quite the leather bender. :)

and to answer seionage's question, pouches usually take 7/8 oz sometimes 8/9. Big sheaths usually take 8/9 to 9/10. Tandy always has small scraps if you want to experiment. :)
 
Thanks for all the feedback, Leatherman! In retrospect I agree with the rounded belt loop - it would add to the overall form factor. You brought up a very good point on sealing the inside of the sheath after dying it - it TOTALLY slipped my mind when I was making the sheath. I'll have to fix it now before I send it out to Dave. Sorry, Dave - one more day to wait ;).

I do have a question for you, though. What do you mean by "The closed stitch is also a weak point of anchor"? Do you mean that the fact that the stitching on the belt loop is a closed square weakens it? I can see that this will only really be an issue if someone puts a lot of weight on the sheath from the top. The belt loop is also glued on, FWIW.
 
Ted:

No problem!

Leatherman:
What do you mean by "round off the belt loop"? I guess I don't understand. Would there be someway you could photoshop one of the pictures (or someone else who understands what he means), to draw a line on it to describe what you mean?

Thanks!
Dave
 
Wow, what a nice looking sheath. I've been wanting to experiment with the basket weave and such and this gives me some great direction on how to do so. Thanks for taking to time to do this :eek:
 
Awesome thread, thank very much for putting it together. It answered a lot of questions I had about sheath construction:)
 
I've got an idiot question here:

How did you evenly trace out the border? Did you just measure in so far (say 1/2"), and draw a line?

thanks!
dave
 
No, I used a protractor that has two metal tips. One end goes against the edge, the other one marks the leather. Be careful you don't scratch it, though.

(Does this make sense?)
 
Excellent WIP, and great looking sheath.

About the 'closed loop' stitch. Chuch Burrows mentions it in his DVD set. Basically, with enough force applied, it creates a zipper effect on the leather stitching.

Ideally, you would want a U shaped stitch with the top stitches of the U going in and down. Like this:
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No prob! Really any variation of a U or V will work since they are not 'closed loops'.

Seionage- rounding off the belt loop means using a knife or a dedicated strap end cutter to make the end of the loop strap more than just a |_| edge. There are V shaped cutter, U cutters, and different options based on those ideas. I just cut mine with a utility knife, but I'm having a hard time making a symmetrical and uniform curved U shape.
 
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