Work-In-Progress... Wooden Tramontina Sheath

[TXoutback]

Special Thanks to DeadeyeLefty for inspiring me to dive in on this project.

So I've been a novice woodworker all my life, building bookshelves, desks, coffee- dining- and end-tables, and even a bed platform or two...but I've never set out do build something fine that you'd hold in your hands until now.

I'm making an oak sheath for my Tramontina 18" workhorse. That fine machete has dispatched dozens of scorpions, a handful of copperheads, and mountains of giant ragweed and brambles on my property, so it deserves a good home.

Here's the first sheath I made for it with 1-1/2" SCH40 PVC.

Those notched areas are where I tied on paracord to make a baldric of sorts. That sheath is very durable...but it is heavier than the machete and it would be hard to make pretty.

Back in 2011, I lost all my belongings to a wildfire in central Texas. After moving on and settling in, I've been rebuilding my "man cave" to focus more on my love of farming and crafts and less on the auto racing hobby that efficiently consumed my free income before the fire. Browsing the forums here has led me to a desire to get my feet wet with this sheath project while learning to use my meager skills and tools.

Using the PVC as a model, I cut out my templates on 1/4" oak plywood with a jigsaw.

I made sure to keep the nicer side facing down while cutting, and I flipped the template so both sides had the good side facing outward. I also avoided any knots on the surface. I took my time but was not worried about going outside the lines, since I would be sanding it all down later on.

To be continued...

 

[TXoutback]

Next I wanted to make a void between the two slabs for the blade to live in. For this I used my router to grind off a layer or two of ply from one of the slabs.

I chose to grind into only the outer slab, and leave the inner one (which rides next to my body) full-depth.

After doing some testing, I found achieving the ideal router depth is to set your machete blade down on a surface, put a folded piece of paper on top of it, then set your router bit to that depth. You just loosen the router guard depth adjuster and set it down with the bit on the table, and push the guard down onto on the blade+paper. Then tighten the adjuster.

With the variances in the blade and wood, this leaves just enough room for a smooth draw, but it still holds the blade in firmly. If you want to have some "tight spots" on this for extra grip... make them down by the point and up by the opening. That helps hold the blade in and keeps it from playing laterally. You just shave down those areas with the router bit set to blade-only depth with no paper.

I worked from the inner-most part of the channel out toward the edges. This helps because when you are working the outer edges, you want to be shaving off a fine amount of material instead of a mass of material that creates debris.

There are two or three layers of ply remaining there, but its fragile and bendy at this stage.

Here I am using a razor knife to clean things up on the edges so the blade doesn't snag. Any knots you encounter inside the plywood can be filled with putty.

To be continued...

 

[TXoutback]

Next I put a bead of wood glue along the outer edge of the "lip" on the voided piece, then clamped them together between two boards. I let this set overnight, while I browsed the forums here to pass the time.

The next day I removed it from the clamps and ran it through some sanding to get rid of the glue that bled out and the variances in the two slabs.

Here you can see the void where the blade goes in.

And finally how it fits together

That's all I have for now. I have reached the dreaded point where I need to put a finish on it. I will need to put some form of frog on the top 1 inch and mid-section for reinforcement and so I can attach a strap like a baldric, as I did with my PVC sheath. I am not very experienced with leather so I've got some research to do. I'd also like to put a hollow rivet down at the bottom of it for strength.

 

[theHobbyist]

That's gonna turn out awesome!

 

[TXoutback]

Hey thanks! Since I have so much paracord, I'm going to make some temporary prototype frogs with it before I go with leather.

My temporary frogs will be two straps around the thing to secure it together and hold some d-rings for a sling. One right at the top, and the other near the middle. On each I'll zig-zag cordage three times around, and use a lace to bind them tightly on the innner side.

Here's my plan:
1.

2.

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4.

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6.

 

[TXoutback]

Maybe leather cord would be better for this, since it has some tooth and grip.

 

[TXoutback]

Today I sanded in some grooves for the frogs... very lightly, and I also added some wood putty to fill in some of the flaws in the plywood.

I have been researching various finishes, and I have a plan to use strong dark coffee (beyond drinkable!), followed by boiled linseed oil, followed finally by Sno Seal beeswax (that I use on my boots). This should make an aged walnut-like finish on the oak...if it works out well, I will try to put some on the handle too.

 

[DeadeyeLefty]

Hey thanks for the boost, man. I haven't been on here in a long time but I wanted to see how your project turned out.
Looks pretty good from what you've posted - looks like you definitely know your way around a workshop.
How did that final finish come out ?

I'm pretty happy with the leather frog I made up for mine. It's nothing fancy but it has enough grip area to hold the scabbard firmly yet there's enough adjustment in the lacing that I can use it on both of the scabbards I made up, which are different thicknesses.

If you look for 'vegetable tanned leather', you can soak it in water and form it. As it dries, it shrinks and stiffens to the shape (like a molded leather holster).

Just because these are cheap blades doesn't mean they aren't worth improving, and the cotton 'bag' that serves as the supplied sheath is downright dangerous. Thinner, hardwood handle scales made a huge difference on mine as well - I still use all three of the ones I did and just put a convex edge on one of them.

:thumbup::thumbup:

 

[TXoutback]

I should have followed up on this! Here's how it turned out (so far)

I need to get a rivet down in the tip of it, and I definitely want to go leather for the frogs and strap... for now its holding up well with the temporary kit. Only trouble I've had is the mouth of the sheath can be difficult to aim straight on. Next time I do it, I'll flare it a bit.

The coloring is from molasses, coffee, and some liquid chlorophyl we had around. After a few coats, I covered it with BLO and beeswax.

I'm now working on converting an Ontario GI machete into a short sword for fun. Kinda like a grosse messer but with one-and-a-half hands.

 

[Diomedes Industries]

That looks like 550 cord. If it were me - I would simply make two leather straps with buckles that fit where you have sanded the paracord to be. I think that would look great.

TF

 

[TXoutback]

That looks like 550 cord. If it were me - I would simply make two leather straps with buckles that fit where you have sanded the paracord to be. I think that would look great.

TF

Yep, its Paracord. I plan on doing exactly what you described... I need to figure out the best way to attach rings to the leather..I dont like them sandwiched in with the binding...maybe I'll use a brad to attach a looped strap of leather onto the main frog that the metal ring can go though.

If you look for 'vegetable tanned leather', you can soak it in water and form it. As it dries, it shrinks and stiffens to the shape (like a molded leather holster).

That's what I need to do. Thanks for the tip on this.