Would you use the knives in the video or 20cv knives in the field?

[dogboye]

I grew up carrying nothing but carbon steel blades. My dad and I preferred Camillus, so whatever they used was the type of carbon steel we used. We never obsessed over their corrosion; they never rusted, just patinaed, because they were in constant use, for everything from opening boxes to cutting apples to whatever. The best I remember, we never OILED the blade any more than what would get on it when we oiled the pivot with 3-1 oil. They held great edges a long time, but obviously not as long as today's super steels. But they resharpened with a breeze.

I would take any carbon steel over stainless into the wilderness, thinking critically about it. If it was a long term situation. Even though I've batonned my 20CV 5.1 quite mercilessly through wood. Here's the reason. A corroded blade, if indeed it does corrode instead of patina (which I've never seen on a blade that hasn't been left out in the weather neglected and I used), will still take a good edge and perform well. If you take a stainless blade and it fails because of toughness issues, it's done. There is no bringing it back or making do. Except for making do with the pieces left behind in whatever form they are.

All that being said, 99% of the time I have a stainless blade with me, daily, or when hunting. Because I'm just not in the wilderness long term that much. Well, never. And I usually have several blades on me of differing sizes. My days of only carrying one blade at a time are long gone.

 

[Riz!]

Dogboye

I think most of us are in that same boat as far as multiple blades when in the woods. I usually have a stainless folder or small or medium fixed blade paired with a large 3V/1095/01 knife and even sometimes a tomahawk and or a folding saw. The reason and duration for being in the woods determines what I carry.

 

[XtianAus]

OBX you said that the structure and performance was not negatively affected by the rust on the knife after a year. You also said you'd still pick it in it's current condition over a new 20cv with no corrosion. What i am wondering is if with further use and further corrosion, would it eventually reach a stage where its ability to perform would be in jeopardy? Because in a survive situation, whatever that may be, tools and materials that you would use to "clean up" the rust (like Guy did in that video), may not be available to you and thus in that condition with further use, it would have even more corrosion and continue to only grow. Would it reach a stage of no return?

 

[OBX351]

You also said you'd still pick it in it's current condition over a new 20cv with no corrosion.

XA - Yes, per my original statement, if I could sharpen it I would. Also I would be able to remove the surface rust with found materials, mentioned below. The reasons why I prefer 3v can be found in one of my "War and Peace" rants in this thread.

What i am wondering is if with further use and further corrosion, would it eventually reach a stage where its ability to perform would be in jeopardy?

- I don't think so because sharpening and a small amount of maintenance would take care of and prevent the surface rust. Just sharpening the edge would remove the only part of the knife that would be effected by corrosion.

Because in a survive situation, whatever that may be, tools and materials that you would use to "clean up" the rust (like Guy did in that video), may not be available to you and thus in that condition with further use, it would have even more corrosion and continue to only grow. Would it reach a stage of no return?

Maybe, but I don't think so. All I would need is some sand, small rocks or cloth and a little water to wash & remove the surface rust. Unless I am in a rain-forest or stuck on a raft in blue water I am sure I could keep the knife dry enough to keep the rust from being a concern. The rust on the test blades in the videos were more of a nuisance and were easily cleaned. Again I tried to buy any or all of them but Guy isn't in the used knife business and he wouldn't sell them to me. I still give him a little grief about it just to make fun because his QC standards are SO high.

Talk is cheap and I understand why you're skeptical but I handled the knives that were in the video and they didn't seem to be damaged in any way. Guy had another knife with some surface rust on it and I was able to wipe most of it off with a cloth. Again I am not an expert but I would have not problem taking any of those knives into the field as long as I could sharpen them with a kit as simple as a 2 sided stone for damage and my leather belt, some coarse compound, and my jeans to keep sharp.

 

[Fancier]

Yeah, but what knife would you carry if they sent you naked into a salt mine?
What then mister?
Edit: Forgive me, I had just had my first sip of coffee....

 

[OBX351]

Yeah, but what knife would you carry if they sent you naked into a salt mine?
What then mister?
Edit: Forgive me, I had just had my first sip of coffee....

LOL! I hear it's pretty dry in salt mines!

 

[McVeyMac]

OBX, I have come down on the side of 3V in any of it's forms to the 20CV. The reason that I say this is partly out of ignorance. I do not own a 20CV knife. But I do have the 4.1 in M390, a similar steel to the old 20CV. It has served my purposes very well, and I have had no problems with it whatsoever, but in any knife larger than the 4.1 I definitely would want the 3V. I do prefer the new 3V to the old due to the increased corrosion resistance, but I appreciate the toughness of the 3V and the edge retention of this steel. There might be a situation when the toughness means all of the difference. This is why I had ordered the new spec 4.1, to get it in the new 3V. If I am stuck with only the 4.1 on me, and I am stuck in a situation that I am going to be in the field for a while, I want it to be in 3V, new or old HT.