WTK: Removing and Re-attaching Res-C Handles?

D-R

D-R

Joined
May 16, 2003
Messages
143
So, was looking at a SYKCO 311, and would like to try my hand at a strip/convex. I do want to take off the handles so they are not damaged, and also try replacing the flared tubing. What tools are required to do this, and what OD/ID of tubing is recommended? Best method of removal? Wanted to start small, so doing this with my 311 before I tackle my RMD.

D-R
 
I dont think the res-c handles are removable at least without permanent damage but on the plus side I don't think paint stripper in small amounts will do much harm to the handles.
 
Chiller, The handle will slip off once the rivet is drilled out. :) Also your right, stripper wont hurt the Res-C. I've done dozens with no issues.

As far as flaring the tubing, I've seen a set up by one of the Busse fans. He used the heads of Phillips screws (threaded part cut off) glued to a bench vise. Evidently the flare of the screws is nearly identical to that of the flare tools used at Busse. I dont know the size of tubing, but a 1/4" drill bit is ideal for drilling them out. I've done it on a few. Caution! Use a vice on your drill press as the blade can become a whirlybird of cutting death if your not careful. A member found this out a while back much to his horror.
 
I recommend not stripping under the handle of your 311 or RMD . SR-101 can rust out under a res-c grip or scale if it is not protected. I have stripped both with Jasco without removing the handle and it does not harm the res-c or micarta scales.

Here is a classic showing how its done with res-c (I recommend gloves):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k75QQemkZ0Q
 
I just strip the grind and the flats over the grind and it works just as good. I don't think its worth all the work to grind the dimples out of the ricasso so I just leave all that coated
 
Going to be recoating the whole blade, including ricasso, so do need to remove the handles. Thanks for the tutorials though!
 
D-R said:
Going to be recoating the whole blade, including ricasso, so do need to remove the handles. Thanks for the tutorials though!
Click to expand...

What are you going to recoat it with? Interesting project.
 
D-R said:
Going to be recoating the whole blade, including ricasso, so do need to remove the handles. Thanks for the tutorials though!
Click to expand...

What are you going to recoat it with? Interesting project.
 
I just drilled the handle off my 311 with a 1/4th bit and then pulled it off. No damage to it at all.

I'm trying to do a hidden tang wood and micarta rehandle.
 
KalEl- when you do please post pic - I had a similar thought as I want a full size 4+ blade - no choil and consdiered doign that to a 511. If I could do it with the new 4" model from the swamp I would. Some time back another member did thsi to a wardog and removed the choil. I inquired if he could do it for me and he never responded so I sold the wardog and am now kicking myself.
 
Thrill said:
What are you going to recoat it with? Interesting project.
Click to expand...

Oh, don't you guys worry. Have a couple projects in the works, I think there will be rejoicing and awe when they are revealed...

Oh, and on a completely unrelated note, does anyone know the guy that was using titanium tubing and flaring it? ;)
 
D-R said:
...and also try replacing the flared tubing. What tools are required to do this, and what OD/ID of tubing is recommended? Best method of removal?
Click to expand...

These are a great alternative to tube fasteners:
http://www.fastenal.com:80/web/search/product/_/Navigation?searchterm=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=&pageno=2&refine=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600051%20Screws%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22608632%20Binding%20Post%20Screw%20Products%22|~%20~|categoryl4:%22608636%20Binding%20Post%20Barrels%22|~%20~|sattr03:^1/4%22$|~
Apply a liberal coating of synthetic, rubber-safe waterproof grease to the tang and inside of the grip, and that should curtail any corrosion. Excess grease will ooze from the fastener hole and on either side of the ricasso. This will let you know it's protected well. No ooze = less than 100% tang coverage.

A bit like this:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=84922
with an O.D. no greater than 1/4" is the best way to remove tube fasteners. It will not mangle the grip should you come in contact with it like a traditional drill bit. It will also not grab hold of the tang and turn the knife into a helicopter, either.

If the grip seems as if it will not pull off after the tube fastener is removed, tap the edges on either side of the ricasso with a small, non-metal hammer. A few taps is all that is needed. Be sure to wrap an old tee shirt or rag around the blade a few times when pulling the grip off. This will allow you to hold it securely without doing a number on your hand should the knife slip.
 
Is there just the one hole in the tang for the tube or are there other holes in it? Thinking of picking up a SYKCO.
 
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