Photos Your sharpening system and sharpened knives

Joined
Jan 4, 2006
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6,129
  • DMT Coarse Diamond Whetstone
  • Spyderco Double Stuff Medium/ Fine
  • Spyderco Ultra Fine Benchstone
  • Shapton Glass Stone 16,000 Grit
  • Green Honing Compound
  • (Not pictured) Spyderco Triangle Stones - Medium, Fine & Ultra Fine

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I don’t go for a mirror. I use an Edge Pro to set my secondary, finish to a few passes on a strop (about 6k) for a wet looking bevel, then often apply a micro at 1k, around 20dps.

This pic is a very used edge, complete with a chip from work, without a micro. Straight out of my pocket, and it has cut over 150 feet of cardboard, 90 zip ties, and 60 plastic straps since the last time I stropped it.

Maybe not what you were looking for, but hey... it is, what it is.

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I don’t go for a mirror. I use an Edge Pro to set my secondary, finish to a few passes on a strop (about 6k) for a wet looking bevel, then often apply a micro at 1k, around 20dps.

This pic is a very used edge, complete with a chip from work, without a micro. Straight out of my pocket, and it has cut over 150 feet of cardboard, 90 zip ties, and 60 plastic straps since the last time I stropped it.

Maybe not what you were looking for, but hey... it is, what it is.

Nope, that's totally what I'm looking for. Knives that have been sharpened and how you sharpen them
 
Until you get more replies you may enjoy this old thread. I happened to come across it today by chance. I have searched for it in the past and could not find it. I book marked it today.
I'm not posting my system / photos because everyone is sick to the teeth around hear from hearing about it.
Basically Edge Pro Apex, mostly Shapton Glass stones but some others thrown in from a Ruby 60 to diamond 8,000.
NO STROPS. I could not wish for better edges in my wildest dreams. Not my talent I just have good sharpening tools.
Enjoy this LINK > > >
 
Wowbagger Wowbagger Ah, you've used the Ruby 60 stone now? How is it?
Sorry to be so tardy about responding about the Ruby 60.
Just today is the first day I've used the stone on something that really needed that much grit aggression.

First off lets back up and say I first tried it on a brand new Delica ZDP-189 blade where I was just making both bevels the same for use in my Edge Pro Apex and chewing into the area where a sharpening choil would be if the blade had one. I'm not saying it needs one but I was squaring up the plunge grind right there in the corner.

Found the stone to smooth off some and not cut fast on the ZDP; I then chucked up a Shapton Glass 220 because I was ready to refine the bevel. There was kind of a holiday / low spot on one side right near the plunge grind but I figured I didn't want to spend that much time grinding it out and would catch it in future sharpening. To my surprise the Shapton Glass 220 was cutting the ZDP with more authority and took out the low spot in the bevel easily. I finished the edge to near mirror and hair whittling working through more Glass stones up to 4,000.

So . . . now back to the present, today I tried the Ruby 60 with water to begin full flat grinding my Kershaw Chill in basic 8Cr13MoV. I worked only one side for a while taking the transition shoulder where the main bevel becomes the flat spined area of the blade, also taking down the thickness near the sharpening bevel (reprofiling if you will).

Next I put my DMT Extra Coarse on the counter with water as the lube. I worked only the opposite side of the blade that I had not touched with the Ruby 60. At first I made short stokes similar in length to the Ruby stone to half aced compare the two. Actually I think they are similar in aggressiveness / material removed. I then started going full strokes and with more downward force.

I went back and forth a few times.
I think for reprofiling just behind the edge the Ruby 60 is going to work well for that on the more basic alloys. In both cases (ZDP and 8Cr13MoV) the stone hardly wore at all and was great that way. Compared to my "Shapton Glass" 120 white stone the Ruby 60 is FANTASTIC ! ! ! The Ruby 60 cuts way better and the 120 wears so fast it is just garbage in comparison. I put Shapton in quotes because I'm not convinced the narrow 120 I have is made by the same people that make the other Edge Pro Shapton stones. My 120 is a Jende. It is much like the Norton 220 water stone.

As far as the task at hand of flat grinding the Kershaw Chill in basic 8Cr13MoV the DMT 220 is SORT OF the way to go because it just feels better to be able to put more force on the job. The Ruby in the Edge Pro with the 6inch strokes just seems slow and weak for the purpose.

That said the only right way to do this full flat grinding, and I will be thinning the spine of the blade as well, is to go with a powered grinder.

Bottom line is I am glad I bought the Ruby 60.
It seems not up to reprofiling ZDP-189 like perhaps Silicon Carbide would be at least if it is a hard Crystolon. The Ruby 60 is aluminum oxide. The Shapton Glass is "high quality ceramic" what ever that is . . . gits the job done on the ZDP though.

I don't know what to tell you. The Ruby 60 is so very inexpensive it is worth buying in any case and see what it can do for you. It certainly does not wear fast so that is a fantastic improvement on my other very coarse stones.
 
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08A52E4C-3DF3-41CE-BC1A-769847050582.jpeg I just brought a RR Sodbuster up to a 3K finish.
Used a Cerax 320 and then went to the 1K/3K Naniwa combination stone.
It is smaller than most, 2x8 about same as the King Home Stones.
I’ve had it about a month and for 25 bucks it is a great deal.
 
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