Zero grind question

neal70

neal70

Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
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Suppose I could have put this up in tech, but I am specifically curious about Emersons. Anyone have this done to EKI models? I'm wondering how much blade loss it entails, and what generally is the final angle? Or is that more personal? I had to check but paring chisels are usually about 20 degrees(not including micro-bevel); is that a fairly close approximation? Also, has anyone tried this on an EKI A-100, and if so what were the results? I'm aware that the customs can come flat backed, and zero ground, I'm curious about cases where people had it done post buying. Oh yeah, :D , how does it make the black coated blades look? Noticeably different, or slightly more edge exposed? Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks, Neal
 
I don't mean this as rude, truly.

But, some imagination, common sense, and Google will get you the answers you seek.

Josh @ Razoredge Knives does excellent regrinds.

Good luck.
 
I have a Bulldog with Josh right now that he's doing a zero grind to. I'll post pics when I get her back
 
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JB,P1-thank you, excellent points all. Perhaps I should have stated that I also was looking for photographs, perhaps not. I have fairly good skills at visualization, and imagination. Also the ability to google. I was more interested in responses from users, their likes and dislikes, etc.
Thanks, Neal
 
Neal- I like both, zero and secondary bevel. The zero will be a better slicer. The secondary will cut very well also and might be easier for the user to maintain.
rolf
 
Thanks Lycosa (& cf1969). My concern is that unlike a Scandinavian grind edge that's supported on both sides, the true zero can be a bit chippy,or prone to it. I get we're talking 154cm and not a tool steel, so there are going to be martensitic differences on a very fine level, I've just always been concerned I'd wind up with a blade that has a nice semi-circle in it under heavy use. I used my 7 as a carpenter for 20 years no problem-but kept an,if anything, almost macro bevel on it. Slight exaggeration, but you get my point. Just curious how well they hold up if you,say-hit a nail, or rock, or something besides the material being cut. Perhaps some of this is obvious, but folks have been grinding his blades to zero long enough now for a truly accurate answer to my question.
Honestly a zero edge is the easiest to maintain, no microbevel or "scandivex", for me. Dead simple, as long as it's accurately tuned initially. Anyways thanks Rolf.
Thanks, Neal
 
You are welcome.^
Application, buddy. And, the right steel and HT, of course.
 
Just in from Josh at REK:

c4f9cd4467107a30357216a9bde378aa.jpg
 
I carry and use a zero ground 7 every single day. I have freshened the edge, and it is stupid-easy to do. Lay the bevel on abrasive and try to move perpendicular to the edge (to maintain the beautiful grind lines Ernie laid into my 7).
 
I've had her back about 2 days now and really pleased I decided to have the regrind done. As mentioned many times here on BFC, Josh's work and professionalism is outstanding.

A couple more pics:
30db785e45301e01100e0a2b374f7331.jpg

a8bf910a4cc67dfdec7a1768e3164371.jpg
 
Neal...

I had Josh do a couple of zero grinds for me while back. He ground a CQC7A and a mini-CQC7A. Both knives made excellent slicers and never gave me any trouble, but I didn't use them in any other capacity because of the grinds.
 
What is the difference between a Scandivic grind, and a zero grind? Zero grind is a Scandinavian chisel grind? I had always thought a zero grind was much higher than the ones here. Sorry for the noob question.
 
A zero grind is a blade with only one flat bevel (as in from spine to apex, can have multiple "faces" such as a tanto's front bevel).
 
Zero grind mean no secondary bevel at the very edge.

You can have full flat zero grind, convex zero grind, saber with zero grind or in another name "scandi" or whatever grind that you don't put the secondary edge bevel on it can be called as zero grind.

There is nothing magical about zero grind... It will be sharper because its generally has thinner geometry at the very edge but it will be much more fragile to.
And once its dulled and you will need to sharpen the whole primary bevel to maintain the zero grind unless you will need edge bevel soon.
 
Thanks for the photos! Haven't checked this for awhile. It may prompt me to buy another cqc-7 just to get a regrind! :D Although I gotta say that Bulldog looks mighty fine zeroed out. Problems problems! Anyways thanks for all the positive input folks.
Thanks, Neal
 
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