“The Asian Nightmare” Knife - Just finished

Archer Here

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
1,278
Thought I'd put this thread out here to get some feedback on my latest knife. Below are details.

Background:The historical name for this knife has been “the Golok”. They’ve been used for thousands of years in southeast Asia. They tend to be heavier and shorter than machetes, often used for bush and branch cutting. The Japanese Special Air Service are issued these knives even today. To loose one’s Golok is a return to unit offense. Another name for this knife has been “The Tree Beater”. This particular knife became famous in 2008 from the movie Rambo IV.

Measurements:
Extra Large Knife: Length: Tot=18”, Blade=12”, Handle=6”, Width=2 1/2”, Thick=3/16”
Large Knife is 15 ½ “ long, Blade is 10” & Handle is 5 ½ “, Width is 2 “, Thick=3/16”

Shop Details:
The steel I used on this knife is ½ ton Leaf Spring. Although this knife is influenced by the original “Golok” and the Rambo IV movie, I added my own characteristics to it. I designed the knife style on paper, then cut the shape out. I set up a forge, by stacking fire bricks together and leaving about a 3 inch by 3 inch by 12 inch hole inside of it, and I cut a hole out in the back for my fire to blow in. I used a propane torch with a turbo tip to shoot it inside the hole in the back. It took about 5 minutes for my blade to reach a bright orange (approx 1600 degrees Fahrenheit). I took a pen magnet and extended it out and reached inside and it was not magnetized. I let it go a little longer and then pulled it out and immediately dunked it in transmission fluid. I polished to a nice and durable satin finish.

I tempered it by cooking it in the oven at 400 degrees for 1 hour, letting it air cool, then putting it in 1 more hour at 400. It came out with a nice slight yellowish tent to it, that I like. I file tested the blade and it passed. Seems very hard.

Let me know what you think.

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Looks cool... I'm getting ready to forge something similar for a buddy that is dying for a similar knife.

I would make 3 main changes.

A maybe 1" radius at the rear of the guard instead of the "V" to reduce finger pinch when you use the blade a lot.

That's a cool sheath but protecting the cutting edge from cutting people (unintentionally that is) is it's main purpose, so I'd cover that section of cutting edge.

Lastly is mainly a style thingy, look up some of the different cord wrap styles, some are pretty easy, J's Jwrap comes to mind. It'd really bump up the wow factor a lot on the blade. I know the tape wrap is from the movie but look up some of the neat cord wrap styles and it'd really, really improve the look a lot.

Sheesh, you're getting better quickly. :D
 
Great looking knife! I'll second Will's suggestion about blending the back of the handle into a radius. I know when I'm using a big knife as a chopper, I often choke back on the handle and let the pommel serve as a pivot point against the side of my hand. A little bit more of a transition there will really lend that knife to some hard chopping!

I like that you're getting more specific on the heat treatment, and it sounds as though that leaf spring hardened up nicely. Only one real way to know, though....go out and beat the living piss out of some trees! :D

In a related topic to the radius at the pommel and the detail of your heat treatment, I would suggest the following: In future knives, you want to avoid sharp, angular transitions throughout the knife. The reason for this is that at such sharp angles/transitions, stress risers can form during your heat treatment and cause the blade to fracture at those points. Even if your blade survives the quench, there is a possibility that micro fracturing has occurred at these points and may not reveal itself until it is in hard use. For instance, in a bow that is strung, there is tremendous stress passed throughout the bow. If there was a sharp angular cut into the bow, there will be a greater likelihood of the bow fracturing at that point than if you had a cut into the bow that was blended into a gentle radius.

Now I'm not suggesting that all transitions have to be sweeping gentle curves, but where there are sharp angles formed such as in your ricasso, just round out where the steel meets a bit.

Looking great, Archer. Keep up the good work!

--nathan
 
The knife suits ya, mean as hell looking.
Hey you have any of that crocodile hide left over? I need some.
 
mean looking knife!

looks like an awful short steep edge bevel. I'd imagine it's durable as hell, but I'd imagine not so much for the slicing cut.

just an observation. no offense meant.
Keep up the good work!

-Page
 
Thanks guys. All good suggestions. I got an order for the knife today, through the For Sale forum, and I am incorporating your suggestion on the “finger pinch” issue (making it a little more rounded).

Also going to try some different cord wrapped handles, when I get a chance to practice. That would add to the “wow” factor.

Silver_pilate
Thanks for the heads up on the sharp, angular transitions. Will definitely keep that in mind.

Bruce Bump
I sell it for for $10 / SqFt. Let me know if you would like to order some. This is imitation gator and there are several colors you can choose from (dark red, dark brown, light brown, green, and even red).
 
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