1084 vs L6?

S

storyville

Joined
Aug 11, 1999
Messages
1,111
Assume you have two small utility knives in the same design (e.g., 3.5" drop pt, 1/8" thick) with the same grinds, and good heat treats for both steels. Would one be "better" than the other (i.e., performance-wise)? Why or how?

Thanks,
Glen
 
If anyone wants to take the challenge, I'll make the knife out of L6 and you can make one out of 1084 and we'll send em to a nuetral person for testing! The L6 bowie I sent to Mike Turber for the 9" blade test came back as razor sharp as it was when I sent it to Mike!

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Well we have done a lot of work with 1084 the last year
or so and just started working with 15n2...similer but not the same as L6...

I think L6 would be used more if it were commonly available as knife stock...I've seen it referred to as one of the best cutlery steels...

My daily work knife has beed 15n2 for the last 3 months...works like a charm! I have been very hard on it and I find it stays sharp and is flexable...I made a pointy and thin wharncliffe just to see if I could break it and so far only put a little whip in the tip...
http://www.runningdogknives.homestead.com/mywharn.html

Not much of a picture it turns out
smile.gif
I'll update it with how the knife now looks...

The upshot is I think that both steels are flexable and hold a good edge...L6 has a little less carbon but overlaps 1084 and 1095 so go for it...both steels should work well for you...I know they are two of my favorites...

Running Dog

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Running Dog Knife Company

<A HREF="mailto:
runningdog@dog.com">
runningdog@dog.com</A>
www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com
 
Any other comments on these two RE edge-holding, toughness, etc?

Hey L6 -- Well, seeing that I started the thread, I suppose I’ll have to be your "neutral party"
smile.gif
(Now all we need is a 1084 maker to take up your challenge!)

Running Dog -- Good to see you posting here, as my question was partly inspired by your nice work! I’m curious about how you decide to make a particular model in 1084 or 15N2. For some, your available protos are in 15N2 while the standard is 1084 (e.g., the Gambler), or vice versa. Will drop you an e-mail this weekend.

Glen
 
Good point Jerry. But, Mikey boy, I'll take your challenge. Not for competition. Just for fun. I've never forged with 1084, but just order a **** load of it last week. Send me the specs on the knife you have in mind and lets do it!

Keep in mind Mike, my blade will be forged and heat treated by me in my shop. If you want to back out, now is the time. Also, keep in mind the fact that I am not a Master Smith. So, don't chicken out. Let's just do it. It'll be fun. I'm sure we'll both learn something. Whadaya say?
 
What pattern do you guys think would be best, a drop point, bowie, skinner???
Oh yeah, Max,, I hate chicken!!!!!!
biggrin.gif


 
Storyville:

We just had some fun with the new load of steel (15n2) we got in...I made some pups and a gambler...Cut a few skinners as well...If this tread is still alive Monday night I will post a pic of my work knife in it's present condition

My experience with L6 is related to cold weather use for knives...I hear from folks in Alaska and Canada how well it works for them...This is also because of the supply of logging sawblades available in the neck of the woods...

Living in Puget Sound we don't get much really cold weather so I can't speak from personal experience...

I.E. the Gambler prototype in 1/6 15n2:
http://www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=354455%7C567685&PRID=310792

I wanted to see how this thin steel would work with one of our full size knives...I was in a hurry and didn't give it the full width grind, but the knife feels good and is very lightweight...

This is not the sheet rock slasher that the full 1/8 1084 version of the Gambler is but for less than hard utility work this knife works fine as far as I'm concerned...

However the thinner steel really shines in our new featherweight neck knives...
http://www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=354455%7C354458&PRID=299482

and the wharncliffe:
http://www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=354455%7C354458&PRID=328984

These turned out to be great knives...Lightweight, flexable and very useful for daily utility chores...I have to say Dell and I are very proud of the knives...We think they look good, are comfortable to use and carry and they have very good performance...

However because they are so thin, they will not hold up to a lot of hard prying...A Little Camper in 1/8 1084 might be a better choice for a hard use knife or work knife in a compact size...

I may cause some trouble for myself here, but out of the 10-12 different steels (and Talonite) that we have used, I haven't yet found a steel that we don't like...

I think is is more important to select the style of knife, the grind and thickness of the blade and the edge and of course the heat treat for the intended use of the knife...

One of the reasons we like to offer many different styles is so you can pick a knife to suit your end use...Everyone needs more than one knife
smile.gif


The upshot? If cold weather use was important, L6 would be a good choice...1084 not far behind...

If cutting performace is important go for a thinner knife of good design...If you want something better for general utility work and possible hard use in a pinch, go for a thicker blade with a fullsize handle...

Running Dog


------------------
Running Dog Knife Company

<A HREF="mailto:
runningdog@dog.com">
runningdog@dog.com</A>
www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com
 
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