1085 steel maintenance questions

[AcousticKnifeNerd]

Hey everyone. I was wondering if anyone knows how often I should apply mineral oil to a 1085 steel folding knife. I live in an area where it can get to 75% humidity and I'm worried about rusting on a knife I'm considering buying. Any info helps. Thanks a ton! (The knife is a custom handmade if anyone is wondering)

 

[Onies]

I have probably 15 knives made from 1084. For me, the biggest thing is keeping them dry. If cleaning game, wipe them down of blood, a quick rinse with water and wipe them down again. Do not sheath them wet or bloody. Oil when you get back home or to camp. Don’t store them in a wet sheath. Forcing a patina can help. Hot vinegar, mustard or such can be used. Cutting fruit, onions etc can help a patina along too. 1084 is one of my favorite blade steels, incredibly tough, sharpens very nicely and darkens with age. A little bit of care and it will last a life time or more. That said, should red rust develop, drench the rust spots in oil and let it sit for a bit, then rub it with steel wool. Follow up with a bit of 600 grit paper.

 

[Cementite]

how often I should apply mineral oil to a 1085 steel folding knife.

"Often enough to keep it from rusting." How long is a piece of string? Welcome to the forum, from one newbie to another.

For my carbon-steel folders, I get an empty tuna can and melt a mixture of coconut oil, mineral oil (sold as a laxative), petrolatum (Vaseline) and maybe some beeswax, then while it's hot, I pour that tacky greasy mixture into an old Altoids can and let it congeal. Whenever my knives start to get dry and prone to rust, I'll get a dab of that oily/waxy/greasy stuff and rub it over the blade. It seems to last longer than just straight oil, and it's food-safe...

 

[AcousticKnifeNerd]

"Often enough to keep it from rusting." How long is a piece of string? Welcome to the forum, from one newbie to another.

For my carbon-steel folders, I get an empty tuna can and melt a mixture of coconut oil, mineral oil (sold as a laxative), petrolatum (Vaseline) and maybe some beeswax, then while it's hot, I pour that tacky greasy mixture into an old Altoids can and let it congeal. Whenever my knives start to get dry and prone to rust, I'll get a dab of that oily/waxy/greasy stuff and rub it over the blade. It seems to last longer than just straight oil, and it's food-safe...

Thanks for the feedback and advice! Definitely helps.

 

[AcousticKnifeNerd]

I have probably 15 knives made from 1084. For me, the biggest thing is keeping them dry. If cleaning game, wipe them down of blood, a quick rinse with water and wipe them down again. Do not sheath them wet or bloody. Oil when you get back home or to camp. Don’t store them in a wet sheath. Forcing a patina can help. Hot vinegar, mustard or such can be used. Cutting fruit, onions etc can help a patina along too. 1084 is one of my favorite blade steels, incredibly tough, sharpens very nicely and darkens with age. A little bit of care and it will last a life time or more. That said, should red rust develop, drench the rust spots in oil and let it sit for a bit, then rub it with steel wool. Follow up with a bit of 600 grit paper.

I don't hunt so I don't have to worry about blood (unless its my own), but I'll definitely use your rust removal technique. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Crag the Brewer]

How sweaty do you get? What will you be doing while it's in your pocket?

Air conditioned office worker sitting at a desk? Maybe no problem, less maintenance.....


Lineman outside, busting their Ass all day, soaking wet....?
Every single day. Look, wipe clean, inspect, oil. Your sweat might/Will be worse than the outdoor ambient humidity.

 

[AcousticKnifeNerd]

How sweaty do you get? What will you be doing while it's in your pocket?

Air conditioned office worker sitting at a desk? Maybe no problem, less maintenance.....


Lineman outside, busting their Ass all day, soaking wet....?
Every single day. Look, wipe clean, inspect, oil. Your sweat might/Will be worse than the outdoor ambient humidity.

I wouldn't say I sweat a lot in the day due to me working at a desk. Maybe every second day I'll oil the blade. Thanks a bunch

 

[Alberta Ed]

Any commercial rust preventive will work; there are lots to choose from. I use BreakFree CLP usually but ordinary Vaseline works fine too and is also food safe. (And cheap.)

 

[chevyrulez1]

If you are using it on a regular basis you shouldn't have to worry about it much unless you leave water standing on it, get it in salt water, etc.
Most of the time if you start to see some surface rust form, you can brush it off with some steel wool and oil it and will be good to go. In my experience the steel wool is soft enough that it will remove the rust but not scratch the knife or affect the patina. I guess it could theoretically if you ground down hard enough, but I have never seen it happen. I have used it a lot over the years when surface rust would start to form on blued guns, it will wipe the light surface rust off without taking off the bluing.
Main thing is not to let it sit for long periods of time (months or years) and let the rust develop and eat until it pits the steel.