That "Krein grind" makes much more sense than the original!!I received a Warren Whittler from Charlie. For some reason Schrade put a saber grind on it. So I sent it off to be ground by Tom. Since I was sending 1 knife I figured I would send three to save time and money.
Could not be happier.
What a cute little knives! Looking at them makes me think that they might be perfectly recreated by GEC on a 15 frame. Though must confess I'm not sure if I would buy those at a price of a regular 15. Maybe they could make them as SFA from spare 15 handles and secondary blades such as those used in 05. And as a set like two in a tube, one spear, one wharncliffe. Just a wild fantasy or very possible reality?
They are 3¾ inches, needs to be a 78 frame or larger. Small blades big handles
prevents hand fatigue.
hmmmm ... I beg to differ....
I think the white bone is perfect for carving/whittling..... 
The small blades don't really need reprofiling the are so thin already, if you want to remove the bevel at the cutting edge I recommend an extra fine diamond stone. Just run them like you would strop a few times then strop as usual. The main blade is a fine carving blade, once again if you want to improve its angle just reprofile it as low as you can go to knock off the bevels. If you want to go a step further (I did on a couple of mine) Tom Krien will put a very nice full flat grind on it and thin the blade.
This is not encouraging. I was hoping that by reprofiling, my pointy sticks would magically turn into gnomes.
You have the hat down.
Thanks so much for the suggestions.
Full flat grind.
Very admirable work. He looks a bit mischievous…
Thank you, some elves make the naughty list you know.
Very good process description here! I would only advice to have three stone: coarse, medium, and fine. I imagine that the process took pretty much time using only fine grit stone. I think one could practice with medium, but fine is way too slow.Hi! I don't have any advice about getting your knife professionally reground/reprofiled but I thought telling my experience might help.
I recently bought a pocket carver and not only found that the main blade could use a bit of a smaller angle, but mine had a couple very noticeable chips on the edge so I knew for sure it at least needed to be sharpened. I took a chance at reprofiling it myself, which was a bit risky because I am very new to sharpening knives. I figured since the cutting edge is straight it would be a bit easier to do since all you have to do is keep a steady angle on the blade when sharpening. I bought a fine grit stone and watched a few videos on youtube to make sure I had the theory down and when I went to do the job I went obscenely slow to make sure I wasn't ruining this beautiful knife. It is kind of hard to explain the process because I did it all by hand and went by feel. Marking the edge with a sharpy helped a lot to see exactly where I was grinding. I found that you don't need much more than the factory angle to improve the carving quality of the knife. I basically focused on grinding slightly closer to the bevel edge and made sure I was keeping a consistent angle till I formed a burr on one side and then switched to doing the same on the other side. Then I stropped until the burr was fully knocked off. The result was very noticeable. The knife carves much better than it did before and I have had no problems with the edge rolling over or chipping while carving. And for the sake of clarity, I am a total novice. The only time I put a knife to stone before this was with an opinel just to practice a bit on a very cheap knife before going all out on the pocket carver. I am sure that if I can do it you can as well. Good luck if you decide to attempt it yourself!
