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- Dec 30, 2009
- Messages
- 353
YP-Taonta blades and Veikko Hakkarainen Kullervo puukko are in C75.
80CrV2 Gaining In Popularity?
- Thread starter redsquid2
- Start date
I have a custom Puukko made by Malanika in 80crv2.
I have used it in dismembering and boning out deer. Cleared a shooting lane in front of my blind by cutting finger thick poplar saplings about 250 of them. Cutting bread, bacon, carrots, spuds, rope and what not in camp. A few strokes on the strop and she is back to shaving sharp
Hardness is @ 61 Rockwell. No I don't baton it. I use an hatchet for that.
I am fully satisfied with the knife. For my purpose, hunting, camping and fishing this is perfect. We do not need Elmax and other wonder steels for these purposes, other then for pride of ownership and the "cool" factor perhaps.
I have used it in dismembering and boning out deer. Cleared a shooting lane in front of my blind by cutting finger thick poplar saplings about 250 of them. Cutting bread, bacon, carrots, spuds, rope and what not in camp. A few strokes on the strop and she is back to shaving sharp
Hardness is @ 61 Rockwell. No I don't baton it. I use an hatchet for that.
I am fully satisfied with the knife. For my purpose, hunting, camping and fishing this is perfect. We do not need Elmax and other wonder steels for these purposes, other then for pride of ownership and the "cool" factor perhaps.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2014
- Messages
- 5,183
Correct, there is no need for super steel, or fast cars or any luxury item, but boy is it fun and man is life short
Yes being proactive about sharpening is a lost art, it's counterintuitive because if you sharpen and hone more frequently then you remove less steel overtime.
If your knife is dull dull then that takes alot of steel off in one session.
Knives really aren't designed to last forever, if they are being used they need to be sharp, and use dulls all knives so they need to be kept sharp which wears them away.
Of course a super steel would last longer over time
If used properly though
other memory
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2012
- Messages
- 1,812
I recently acquired a Puukko made out of 80crv2. Its geometry is fairly thin towards the apex. I do not know the RC measurement.
After receiving a new knife, I always inspect the "fine edge" (the area really close to the apex) and bevel using a 20x jeweler's lopue before I use it. I use the initial observations as benchmarks.
Out of the box, this particular knife could cut "S" curves in news-print, with a few minor catches. It could also almost- shave, not "hair popping," but close. I used the knife for about 35 minutes on some deadfall from a silver maple. Hard wood. My cuts into the wood came from many different angles. I did some notching. I did some snap cutting into the wood, not hard, in order to make some small wood chips and test impact resistance (That lasted about 5 minutes). After I was done, I looked at the fine edge using the lopue. I saw very little edge degradation, just a few micro nicks towards the apex. The knife could still cut paper fairly smoothly, but it did catch from time to time. It could no longer almost- shave. After that, I touched up the bevel using a DMT Extra-Extra Fine plate, 12 passes on both sides. The knife was back to smooth "S" curves through paper and it could shave.
Corrosion resistance... 80crv2 seems to be in-line with O1 and 1095. It has none. I used it to cut a steak we had for dinner, hot off the grill. Deep staining.
As far as I'm concerned, this steel is excellent for woodworking. It takes a VERY fine edge and should hold a "working" edge for hours under normal circumstances. I don't baton my knives, so I could never speak to what would happen in those kinds of usage scenarios.
After receiving a new knife, I always inspect the "fine edge" (the area really close to the apex) and bevel using a 20x jeweler's lopue before I use it. I use the initial observations as benchmarks.
Out of the box, this particular knife could cut "S" curves in news-print, with a few minor catches. It could also almost- shave, not "hair popping," but close. I used the knife for about 35 minutes on some deadfall from a silver maple. Hard wood. My cuts into the wood came from many different angles. I did some notching. I did some snap cutting into the wood, not hard, in order to make some small wood chips and test impact resistance (That lasted about 5 minutes). After I was done, I looked at the fine edge using the lopue. I saw very little edge degradation, just a few micro nicks towards the apex. The knife could still cut paper fairly smoothly, but it did catch from time to time. It could no longer almost- shave. After that, I touched up the bevel using a DMT Extra-Extra Fine plate, 12 passes on both sides. The knife was back to smooth "S" curves through paper and it could shave.
Corrosion resistance... 80crv2 seems to be in-line with O1 and 1095. It has none. I used it to cut a steak we had for dinner, hot off the grill. Deep staining.
As far as I'm concerned, this steel is excellent for woodworking. It takes a VERY fine edge and should hold a "working" edge for hours under normal circumstances. I don't baton my knives, so I could never speak to what would happen in those kinds of usage scenarios.