80crv2

Osprey Knife & Tool

Osprey Knife & Tool

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Anyone have any experince using 80crv2, or an opinion to share?

I have been playing with it over the last year as an alternative to A2 and 01. I am pretty please with its performance and I plan on offering it up as a base price steel to replace 01 and A2. I will still use 1095
 
IMO, I don't think I would take 80crv2 over A2 but I think they're pretty darn close. I've mostly used 80crv2 it in a puukko from a European maker that deals on BF, and it works well but I don't think there's anything magical about it. Of course, the maker adds the magic, for the most part, and the steel just helps them do that. Most of my A2 has been LT Wright's.

I think O1 has impressed me the least of the steels I've tried, and maybe because it gets a lot of love in the bushcraft circles. It's by no means bad, but it's not great either. Just like 1095, which I have a lot of. It works, and that's the biggest thing.

For the more basic, affordable steels, I feel like I gravitate pretty strongly to 5160 and 52100. I've just had good experiences with them under a lot of uses. O1, 1095, and A2 are still solid performers, of course.
 
I wouldn't have said this until I got a couple Winkler knives ... and they are 80crv2 and have really performed well ...

It may not be the best or a new super steel but Winkler has discovered how to get pretty good performance out of it ... and it is one of the easier steels to sharpen IMHO.
 
I like 80crv2 generally. I have both a 12” Gossman competition chopper-type blade in it and a <4” Mallinen puukko in it and both cut hardwood like it’s butter. It’s tough and easy to sharpen. That said, I am not going to kick out my A2 or O1 knives either. I don’t think any of them are superior steels, it’s just a matter of the maker’s ability to make each one shine in the HT process. If you think your means of treating the 80crv2 are going to yield better results relative to your means of treating A2 or O1 because the best known methods are more in line with your capabilities, then you are most likely correct. :)
 
bikerector said:
IMO, I don't think I would take 80crv2 over A2 but I think they're pretty darn close. I've mostly used 80crv2 it in a puukko from a European maker that deals on BF, and it works well but I don't think there's anything magical about it. Of course, the maker adds the magic, for the most part, and the steel just helps them do that. Most of my A2 has been LT Wright's.

I think O1 has impressed me the least of the steels I've tried, and maybe because it gets a lot of love in the bushcraft circles. It's by no means bad, but it's not great either. Just like 1095, which I have a lot of. It works, and that's the biggest thing.

For the more basic, affordable steels, I feel like I gravitate pretty strongly to 5160 and 52100. I've just had good experiences with them under a lot of uses. O1, 1095, and A2 are still solid performers, of course.
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I appreciate you sharing your input, I have no experience with 5160 or 52100 I would be willing to give it a try though. I am running with the 80crv2 for now. I feel like I have figured out a pretty good heat treatment for it. I have been testing and playing with it for about a year now.



Bmurray said:
I prefer it over A2. It’s a fine grain steel. However it’s no secret that I like d2 best.
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Awesome! I will have some ready soon! ;)


JJ_Colt45 said:
I wouldn't have said this until I got a couple Winkler knives ... and they are 80crv2 and have really performed well ...

It may not be the best or a new super steel but Winkler has discovered how to get pretty good performance out of it ... and it is one of the easier steels to sharpen IMHO.
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Good to hear! I have had a similar experience with it.



Apocryphiliac said:
I like 80crv2 generally. I have both a 12” Gossman competition chopper-type blade in it and a <4” Mallinen puukko in it and both cut hardwood like it’s butter. It’s tough and easy to sharpen. That said, I am not going to kick out my A2 or O1 knives either. I don’t think any of them are superior steels, it’s just a matter of the maker’s ability to make each one shine in the HT process. If you think your means of treating the 80crv2 are going to yield better results relative to your means of treating A2 or O1 because the best known methods are more in line with your capabilities, then you are most likely correct. :)
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Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I think your going to like what I have been working on:)


Apocryphiliac said:
Wow, those Rangers in 80 with the black oxide finish are NICE! I woulda snagged one in the olive drab if I’d seen ‘em coming!
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Thank you, I will have more ready in a few weeks. Prepping some Vildmarks in 80crv2 This week.
 
I have been using it in large and small knives for 2 years. We want something that's easy to sharpen compared to the super steels. It does not rust nearly as quickly as 1095. In a shop environment... It's risen in our estimation as a good option.
 
Osprey Knife & Tool Osprey Knife & Tool , I am really admiring the recurve chopper in this steel that’s available in the website. I love the way you work fullers into these types of patterns. The only thing that is causing me to hold off is that I have become very used to having a forward-position lanyard hole on my chopping blades (as seen in many competition choppers). It makes a huge difference for me in terms of comfort and security.
 
Apocryphiliac said:
Osprey Knife & Tool Osprey Knife & Tool , I am really admiring the recurve chopper in this steel that’s available in the website. I love the way you work fullers into these types of patterns. The only thing that is causing me to hold off is that I have become very used to having a forward-position lanyard hole on my chopping blades (as seen in many competition choppers). It makes a huge difference for me in terms of comfort and security.
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Noted!!!
 
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