A great shear for the $

anvilring

anvilring

Joined
Nov 29, 2000
Messages
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I'm reposting this here so's you all see it. This is a great sheer for the $ and apparently, the free shipping/price is for a limited time.






Western bright cut... I'm getting better at this.
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[/url]DSC09915 by mwilkins, on Flickr[/IMG]

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[/url]DSC09916 by mwilkins, on Flickr[/IMG]

And... the world's best sheer for the money. I've been a mfg. jeweler for 40 years this year, and have found for the most part tools for/in my industry are way overpriced for what they are. A sheer from Gesswein or Rio Grande are anywhere from $400 to $1350. This one from Summit Racing is a whopping $120 shipping included! I use it for gold, silver, brass etc. It will sheer 1/8 inch of sterling w/no problem. A very cool tool for quick guard material cut off or whatever.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hck-sphs8/overview/

hck-sphs8_w.jpg



m
 
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I have what I believe is the same one from Northern Tool, comes from the same Chinese factory no doubt.
Mine doesn't cut what I need, it's junk and I regret the purchase,
I'm trying to hot shear laminated steel. 5/32 thick.
Mine is the 12" model

I wonder what am I doing wrong?
 
Do you have the work holder all the way down of the bar? Mounted w/1/2 inch bolts to a sturdy table? how "wide" is what your trying to cut? I've not cut such w/mine but think it would do 5/32nds annealed steel say, an inch or so wide.

When you say "hot shear" I have to ask; why are you re-heating a laminated (I'm assuming you buy it this way) product that is probably shipped annealed?
 
I love my hypertherm plasma cutter, it cuts anything and don't care lol. But it's a tad more pricy then that shear. But I would not want to cut gold or silver with a plasma lol
 
anvilring said:
Mounted w/1/2 inch bolts to a sturdy table?
Click to expand...

I could probably improve this.....
bar width is usually about 1.5", but I cut on angle so the length of cut may be several inches 3-5"

I re-heat because I forge the laminated bar.
so I heat up the bar and try to use the shear to trim it hot.
 
Ok I see.... so how hot is it? when you head for the shear? I'd say those angle cuts are what's causing the problem. Were I doing it, I think I'd be heading (and quickly) to the shear at a solid visible orange color. Truthfully, you'd better be careful as even the least hesitation here "could" compromise your shear's blade hardness. I'd be quick.

edit: the Summit site says "3/16th" max. flat material, and max. 3/8 in. round bar.
 
anvilring said:
Ok I see.... so how hot is it? when you head for the shear? I'd say those angle cuts are what's causing the problem. Were I doing it, I think I'd be heading (and quickly) to the shear at a solid visible orange color. Truthfully, you'd better be careful as even the least hesitation here "could" compromise your shear's blade hardness. I'd be quick.

edit: the Summit site says "3/16th" max. flat material, and max. 3/8 in. round bar.
Click to expand...

yes, orange heat
I believe this is quite a common procedure with Japanese bladesmiths

anyway, I'm glad it's working for you, I will try it again with a sturdier mounting to a more rigid table and give it another try.
 
anvilring said:
Do you have the work holder all the way down of the bar? Mounted w/1/2 inch bolts to a sturdy table? how "wide" is what your trying to cut? I've not cut such w/mine but think it would do 5/32nds annealed steel say, an inch or so wide.

When you say "hot shear" I have to ask; why are you re-heating a laminated (I'm assuming you buy it this way) product that is probably shipped annealed?
Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-TRefBOsA8

have a look 18 seconds in
 
HSC: it takes some "umph" for sure, that's why the long handle. You MUST have it mounted super good. It's gotta be sturdy. You can use a pipe cheater as well but if mounted properly, it should cut it in one stroke.
 
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