A2 steel - any good?

spyken

spyken

Joined
Apr 29, 2002
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I've tried using the search function but couldn't get any hits (too wide). Can anyone tell me about A2's properties wrt edgeholding, corrosion resistance, toughness, sharpenability, ability to achieve scary sharp edges, finishing etc. and how it compares to stainless steels like S30V.

thanks,
 
A2 is great stuff, if heat treated properly. Not stainless, by any means though. Tough, and takes and holds a wicked edge.
 
I did a bit of research into A-2 a while back for a review on my Bark River Woodland. In a word, it is superb. Comparable to 52100 in edge holding, maybe tougher, certainly more corrosion resistant and it takes a little longer to sharpen. A-2 includes carbon (1%), chromium (5%), silicon (.4%), manganese (.6%), molybdenum (1%) and vanadium (.25%). The legendary Bob Egnath called A-2 “…an exceptional steel, with fine wear-resisting qualities plus excellent resistance to annealing and warping.” Joe Talmadge: “An excellent air-hardening tool steel, it is known for its great toughness and good edge holding. As an air-hardening steel, so don’t expect it to be differentially tempered. Its outstanding toughness makes it a frequent choice for combat knives. Chris Reeve and Phil Hartsfield both use A-2, and Blackjack made a few models from A-2.”
Bark River uses a proprietary heat treat and the results are, well, extraordinary IMHO. With a good heat treat, A-2 is tough to beat. My Woodland has become my everyday fixed blade carry.
 
Deryk Munrole on A2 (http://www.bladegallery.com/dcmunroe.htm):

A2 Tool Steel (typical analysis: C - 1.00%, Mo - 1.00%, Cr - 5.00%, V - 0.25%)

One of my favorites in terms of pure Zen-like cutting power. A2 is an extremely tough, fine-grained tool steel with excellent flexibility and wear resisting capabilities. A good choice for stock removal Japanese-style blades including full length katana. The exceptional toughness makes it a great choice for blades that are going to endure shock and bending. A2, with the proper edge geometry, will get downright SPOOKY-sharp. For some reason, I can get A2 sharper than any other steel I've used so far. Edge-holding is very reasonable and the relative ease of field sharpening is a good bonus.
As with all tool steels, the main drawback is the lack of corrosion resistance. Even with the 5% chrome A2 is still quite susceptible to staining if not cared for, although perhaps not as much as O1.

Mike Snody on A2 (http://www.snodyknives.com/MS_Knives_Materials.htm):

A2 is an air hardening carbon tool steel. A2 exhibits good wear resistance and great toughness. A2 steel will get screaming sharp and is a good choice for larger knives where toughness is important. A2 steel is comprised of 1.00% carbon and 5.25% chromium. A2 is not stainless and must be properly cared for to prevent corrosion. A2 is considered to have the best compromise between wear resistance and toughness of any of the standard cold work tool steels.

A. G. Russell on A2 (http://www.agrussell.com/knife_information/knife_encyclopedia/a.html#A-2):
An excellent air hardening tool steel used by handmade knife makers and by speciality makers like Bark River as well. First maker I know of using it was Harry Morseth in the early 1930s. Performs best at about 60-61 Rc (see hardness). For many years my favorite as well as Ron Lake's. It contains about 1% Carbon, 1% Molybdenum, and 5% Chromium.

Joe Talmadge on A2 (in the BladeForums FAQs):
An excellent air-hardening tool steel, it is known for its great toughness and good edge holding. As an air-hardening steel, so don't expect it to be differentially tempered. Its outstanding toughness makes it a frequent choice for combat knives. Chris Reeve and Phil Hartsfield both use A-2, and Blackjack made a few models from A-2.

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Having never seen a direct comparision, I would guess that A2 would be superior to S30V in the categories you list except corrosion resistance and abrasion resistance. If you are willing to live with the maintenance of A2, you could think about CPM-3V which has superior toughness and abrasion resistance compared to A2, and equal abrasion resistance to S30V.
 
Alberta Ed,
It is precisely because I am considering the BRKT Woodland or Northstar that I'm asking about A2.

How does the A2 on your Woodland compare to S30V?

Also, is your Woodland in Stag Bone or Micarta? I'm thinking of Stag bone but prefer a slightly smoother feel but still grippy. There's a stag bone first production run going for less than $70 excluding shipping and I think it's a good deal.
 
I've found A2 to be a great steel. It has good toughness, takes a very, very nice edge, and holds it plenty long. My dad has been playing around with doing some handmade stuff in the past few years, and A2 is one of his favorites. I really like it as a user steel for all the reasons mentioned above. The only real problem is corrosion resistance(not really a big deal if you take care of your blades) and if you can deal with that, you will be a very happy camper with A2.
 
A2 is a GREAT tool steel... If you check out Ron Hoods Woodmaster video's you can see one of my big blades going through a frozen Elk leg bone in about 2 whacks with no edge damage at all...
Paul Bos heat treats all my stuff, and he REALLY makes the A2 do great things!
 
Hey Spyken - how's it going. I have just ordered in A2 for my next round of knives (6" utility 2.5" blade to be called the Wombat) for all the reasons mentioned above. The only thing I would worry about is your climate and the corrosion factor - you would need to take extra care.
 
hey all,
thanks for the thumbs up for A2. looks like the type of steel I want. I guess the only drawback is the corrosion issue, since I live in the tropics. It will definitely not be my sea-going knife then.

I was really looking to get the Highland/Northstar as my fixed blade for camping/trekking, in addition to my machete.

JDEE, hey there...great to see you here! Let me know when the package arrives...;)
 
I have a question on A-2. Chris Reeve coats his One Piece Range. Do the others? If so ,then there should be minimal issue of corrosion ?
 
I'm not too familiar with this, but I'll look it up. We always recommend mineral oil for protecting carbon steel knives; I wonder if this will work to protect A2 steel...? I'd assume it would. Any thoughts on this?

~ashes
 
Originally posted by spyken
hey all,
thanks for the thumbs up for A2. looks like the type of steel I want. I guess the only drawback is the corrosion issue, since I live in the tropics. It will definitely not be my sea-going knife then.

I was really looking to get the Highland/Northstar as my fixed blade for camping/trekking, in addition to my machete.

JDEE, hey there...great to see you here! Let me know when the package arrives...;)
Click to expand...

I think Bark River makes some models in 12C27 Sandvic stainless, these may work better for you if you want a Bark River.
These guys have the Mountaineer, one of the stainless models. Never got one, but they do look pretty sweet!

Also, you could e-mail Mike Stewart at Bark River, maybe he could be persuaded to make a few Northstars in the stainless he has around. Those are gonna be awesome knives!
 
What's your machete made from? If 1095 the A2 should work just aswell or a little better from corrosion. As for a sea going knife any good stainless not taken care of will also rust.
 
I don't know what steel is in my machete (a parang really), but I believe most of them are forged from truck springs.
 
I'd be willing to bet the A2 would act pretty simular or even a little better for corrosion then.
 
I have used A-2 steel for large knives for over
twenty years. I can't say enough good about this
steel. It is tough, unusually flexible for a non-
differentially heat-treated steel, takes a fantastic
edge, holds it well, and is reasonably easy to sharpen.

When used heavily, as in a great deal of wood
chopping, it tends to get tiny micro-fractures on the
edge, which are easily sharpened away, rather than
losing pieces of the edge, which is what seems to happen
to abused stainless.

Rust is about the only downside to this steel.
Compared to the O-1 that I used prior to A-2 it seems
somewhat more rust-resistant. Also the rust that forms
tends to be a suface rust with no pitting, or at least
more resistant to pitting. It does definitely need
care. If your parang is made of truck spring steel
it is probably 5160 or something similar. The A-2
will certainly be a little easier to care for than
this, but not a great deal.

A good heat treat is naturally what makes any steel
but it is critically important with A-2. After having it
treated at many different levels of hardness I have
found that two seem to work best. Rockwell 55-57 gives a
very tough blade, with a good balance of other the
other desirable characteristics. Rockwell 59-60 gives a
blade with tremendous edge-holding/wear resistance, a
little greater resistance to rust, and somewhat less
toughness.

As far as coatings, Kal-guard seems to work better
than most, but the blade needs to be coated prior to
assembly, as it has to be baked on. I have also had
good luck on carbon steel with plain old blueing.
Several coatings of Brownells Oxpho-Blue, or
Birchwood-Casey Super-Blue paste form a nice looking,
reasonably protective finish that is easily touched up
as it wears. The finer the surface finish of the steel,
the better either seems to look and work.

I am currently working on a 5160 piece, just out
of curiosity, after reading reviews and recommendations
by Chris Stamp and others on this forum, but I doubt
that you will be disatisfied with A-2, especially at the
VERY reasonable price you mentioned.
 
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