Accusharp issue

B

Benny Blanco

Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Messages
3
Hi everyone
I bought the standard Accusharp sharpener in the UK after reading many reviews of it and have been using it to sharpen a Qama short sword (similar to a gladius) that had no edge on it at all. I have only worked on one side of the double edged blade so far, after quite some time sharpening it (following the advice on the packaging) the bevelled edges are not even on both sides despite me being very careful to hold the sharpener at 90 degrees to the blade and the knife was also held in a vice so it was perfectly horizontal (I checked it with a spirit level).

I understand from reading previous advice that it is not generally advised to use this type of sharpener on expensive swords etc as it can spoil the blade geometry and want to stress this was not an expensive knife (£40) and I just wanted a good utility edge on it.


I can't understand why the edge is not even so any advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
 
I thought Benny Blanco was from the Bronx.:cool:

Those type of sharpeners are held in extremely low regard 'round here. On a scale of 1-10, it'd be a negative 20. I'd honestly rather freehand sharpen a blade on a sidewalk curb than use one.

Without looking at the blade or holding it myself, I would guess one of two things (or both):

1. One bit of the sharpener takes away more metal than the other, as the V of the bits are offset.

2. The blade itself isn't symmetrical. This wouldn't surprise me at all on a cheap sword like that. It wouldn't take much of a variance in thickness on one side to cause an "uneven" edge.

If you must stick with the Accusharp, you should flip the blade around (or move yourself to the other end if it's in a vice) and do an equal amount of work from the other direction. Or buy a second one, disassemble it, and switch the bits around so you can alternate between them without having to flip the blade itself around.
 
If you are following the instructions as you state, and the blade is perfectly perpendicular, then the only way that you could end up with uneven bevels on each side is if the two sharpening elements on each side are not properly aligned. I have no idea if they are adjustable.
 
Thanks for the advice.

I'm no expert but the blade quality looks ok to me, it's 1095 steel, made by Windlass and although cheap they make much more ornate and expensive swords out of the same steel. Mine is just a basic version with no fancy detailing or features on the hilt. The Accusharp blades are removable so they can be swapped around to increase the lifetime of it but not actually adjustable. I've been sharpening from the hilt towards the tip, is it ok to alternate and go the other way as I think I read somewhere you should sharpen in the same direction?

Not really done much sharpening before but also have a Gerber Pocket Sharpener (ceramic coarse/fine) and a Lansky Puck so could use one of those instead or should I get a whetstone?
 
The AccuSharp might be loaded up with steel, so that it's not cutting any more.

I've used sharpeners like that from time to time, and they do get loaded up quickly, with no good way to clean the filings out. They get jammed inside but good!

I'd probably switch to the puck and develop the skill to do it by hand. That's how they sharpened swords in the old times.

if you don't get it right, it doesn't really matter, since you're not allowed to carry swords in the UK anyway. It would be a fun exercise.
 
Those types of sharpeners shave steel off the blade.
They are 100% destructive.

Just so you are aware.

Anyhow - I'd start out with a flat file then maybe switch over to the Accusharp - or just leave it as is after the file.
 
Smaug said:
if you don't get it right, it doesn't really matter, since you're not allowed to carry swords in the UK anyway. It would be a fun exercise.
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lol please tell me you're allowed to walk down the street with a broadsword in the US and someone upload a photo of it, I need to see that :D You're totally right though can't carry any weapons in public here.

The Accusharp is actually fairly easy to clean so every few strokes I use a little brush to sweep the filings out and wipe the blade down also. I agree it definitely is very abrasive on the blade and no way would I use it on a nice katana or something but for the purpose of putting an edge on a totally blunt sword like this I think it has it's uses, I tried the Gerber coarse ceramic sharpener I have and it did literally nothing.

Planterz said:
If you must stick with the Accusharp, you should flip the blade around (or move yourself to the other end if it's in a vice) and do an equal amount of work from the other direction
Click to expand...

Thanks again for this suggestion and logic says it should work but even after trying it the bevel is still not even, although I think it has improved it. After much perseverance the blade now has a decent level of sharpness (will cut paper and card without tearing) although I think it could be better and as I say the bevel looks more pronounced on one side than the other. Any more tips welcomed
 
I have a few Windlass swords that kind of sharpener will ruin the edge .
20200828-192145.jpg
 
Smaug said:
I'd probably switch to the puck and develop the skill to do it by hand. That's how they sharpened swords in the old times.

if you don't get it right, it doesn't really matter, since you're not allowed to carry swords in the UK anyway. It would be a fun exercise.
Click to expand...
This.

H Hal Any sharpener is "100% destructive" in that they all remove steel. If they didn't they wouldn't sharpen, but only burnish, which may not produce the desired results.

I do agree that a draw trough "sharpener" is the worst and should be used last resort ... if then ....
Young Master Planterz Planterz in post number 2, rates them on a scale of 1 to 10 at a "negative 20". He is being quite generous, IMHO.
 
Benny Blanco said:
lol please tell me you're allowed to walk down the street with a broadsword in the US and someone upload a photo of it, I need to see that :D.
Click to expand...
Depends on where you is. Here in Idaho, a "Constitutional Carry" state, you can walk down the street with a Broad sword ... or even a claymore. :)

Admittedly, more than a few might look at you somewhat askance ... however you would not be breaking any laws. No maximum blade length. :D

I'd show you a picture of me carrying mine ... downtown ... past the police station ... wearing my kilt .... but I don't have a sword. :(
 
Benny Blanco said:
lol please tell me you're allowed to walk down the street with a broadsword in the US and someone upload a photo of it, I need to see that :D You're totally right though can't carry any weapons in public here.

The Accusharp is actually fairly easy to clean so every few strokes I use a little brush to sweep the filings out and wipe the blade down also. I agree it definitely is very abrasive on the blade and no way would I use it on a nice katana or something but for the purpose of putting an edge on a totally blunt sword like this I think it has it's uses, I tried the Gerber coarse ceramic sharpener I have and it did literally nothing.



Thanks again for this suggestion and logic says it should work but even after trying it the bevel is still not even, although I think it has improved it. After much perseverance the blade now has a decent level of sharpness (will cut paper and card without tearing) although I think it could be better and as I say the bevel looks more pronounced on one side than the other. Any more tips welcomed
Click to expand...
I can in florida as well. if carried openly so it can be seen. I have a ccw so if I concealed it I could also carry it that way. I wouldn't as it makes no sense to do it either way and I have no need to do that.

I do walk the street with a large machete in its sheath when I head into trails near me to do some trail pruning and never got a sideways glance by anyone.
 
afishhunter said:
H Hal Any sharpener is "100% destructive" in that they all remove steel. If they didn't they wouldn't sharpen, but only burnish, which may not produce the desired results.
Click to expand...
Yeah - that didn't come out like I quite expected it. You got the drift though. Those types of sharpeners are like using a 12# sledge to drive tacks.
 
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