Advice for 1084 alternative

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Feb 27, 2013
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I am looking to make a handful of paring knives as Christmas gifts. My plan was to use 1084 so I could do a backyard heat treat. My problem is that I haven't been able to find any 1084 in stock, let alone something any where close to resembling the size I am looking for.

My question is what would be the next best thing? I know I need to stay away from stainless steels but would 01 be an acceptable replacement? Or is there a better alternative? If it helps in any way, I had intended to make my blanks from 1"x10" pieces of either 1/16" or 3/32" stock.

As always any advice and/or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
 
1075 you can heat treat pretty easily its just finding it in the proper thickness that will be a issue, atleast from aldo although he may have it.

There are other suppliers of steel but the metal can be suspect so try it at your own risk per say.
 
Kelly Cupples usually has 1080 that is a reasonable equivalent. I've used maybe 100 ft of it, no problems.
 
15N20 is a great steel. You need some way to verify temp and soak it for 5-10 minutes. If you go to the local welding supply and get some templisix, heat until the templistix melts, the pump the blade in and out of that heat keeping the color consistent for 5 min, then quench in warmed canola oil. If done well, you will probably prefer it to 1084. I have made about 10 knives from 15n20 recently and they are all great. Invest in a pyrometer, and aim for 1475-1480. (this is the temp you want for the templistix- get the closest they have to this temp.
 
Resist the urge to assume that Aldo's 1075 is inferior to 1084 based on carbon spec. This particular batch he's got is a serious performer and produces some of the most insane temper lines or hamon I've ever seen.


The ABS Intro class being taught by Jim Crowell MS these past two weeks, are using some of it, and word is they were amazed how well it performed in testing yesterday. Also we HT'd a handful of blades the other night and you'll have to see the hamon to believe them.


I've got a pretty big supply of Don Hanson's spectacular batch of W2, but I ordered 75lbs of the 1075 yesterday from Aldo, along with 200lbs of 1/8 15n20, since he's running a smoking deal on it.


15n20 is roughly 1075 with ~2% nickel, so take that for what it's worth when considering 1075. That being said, as often needs to be mentioned, just because a steel is called "X", doesn't mean it's the same as the next steel called the same thing.
 
I bought 48" of the 1075 when I got the 15n20 as well. I am looking forward to using it on larger knives. I have heard about the hamon potential of this steel, and am very excited about this.
 
you can get a decent hardening with O1 or 15N20 in a backyard forge by heating it up to non-magnetic and quenching in heated (120-140F) canola or peanut oil, you just won't be getting every bit of performance possible out of the steel. Temper in the oven at 400 for 2 hours, quench in room temp water until cool enough to handle comfortably, then toss it back in the oven for 2 more hours at 425 and quench in a bucket of room temp water again.
 
Thank you very much for the advice. It seems I will likely go with the 15n20 being as it comes in the thicknesses I desire. Might as well toss in some 1080 on the order too since they'll already be shipping stuff my way. My only question is do I heat treat 1080 as you would 1084? I know 1095 is less forgiving than 1084 and I'm just worried 1080 might be as well.

My wife also commented today how she hates all her kitchen knives, seems I need to look into making more than just paring knives for Christmas...lol

I also got my stencils in the mail from Ernie last week, time to start playing with those a bit.

Thank you again,
Chris
 
try 1080+ from alpha knife. composition is the same as 80CrV2. heat to 1475, oil quench, temper at 350. should get Rc 60-62. holds a nice edge. victor machine has nos sheffield o-1. 1 1/4" x 3/32 x 18 is about $7. with above heat treat got Rc62-63.
 
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