Advice for stain/rust removal from steel blade...

[Hadoken]

I have a Scottish basket-hilt broadsword (decorative) with a steel (I believe) blade that has what I assume to be some rust marks and stains on it.

I also have it's steel sheath that's in the same condition, and an old dagger that's in even worse condition.

I bought some steel wool and have tried scrubbing it and getting minimal change out of it.

Is there a stronger form of cleaner I can use for this or another way I can do this or do I just need to scrub the crap out of it til it's clean or my arm falls off?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm trying to display these items in my house and I'd like to get them rather nice-looking.

-S

 

[Federico]

Are these antique swords youre talking abour or just production swords that are in a state of dissrepir? Because patina on antiques is considered by many collectors as valuable and any removal or disturbence to it can seriously reduce the value of a sword. Patina is stabilized oxidation that tends to be black or grey in color. I would personally tend to leave patina alone depending on the blade. Active rust that must be destroyed is bright orange. If you want to safely remove active rust youre going down a reasonably safe route. Very fine steel wool and a good penetrating oil (like WD-40) to loosen up tougher dirt and rust. It takes a lot of elbow grease but in the long run its the safer route.

Now if it is a newer blade that you want to clean, or if you just plain dont care if it reduces in value and just want something shiny there are various things you can do. Naval jelly would work, so would lemon juice (its acidic and most likely will etch the blade but the etch tends to whiten the blade however it must be neutralized when done with), you could go through varying grades of sandpaper, also there are a number of metal polishes out there such as flitz, etc... All these ways will remove rust, and stains but all are potentially dangerous to the value you blade. I suppose if these blades are of any serious worth you could try to find a reputable antique dealer to appraise and possibly restore any damage. If they are most definitely not worth much then the above methods may work but well I guess it depends on your confort with using any of the above means.

 

[Hadoken]

Thanks for the help.

The sword is something I bought in Scottland for about $40 so it's far from an antique. I'm just trying to get it to look good, don't care too much about the value.

The dagger I bought at a renaissance festival six or so years ago and just hasn't been taken care of. It's in worse condition. It, too, is not terribly valuable (~$70) so I'm just trying to get it to look good as well.

I'll look into trying the solutions you listed, and if you've any other advice, I'm all ears.

Thanks again.

-S

 

[Paracelsus]

For very thick rust deposits you will need to use some form of abrasive. Various polishes can be purchased at most hardware stores (emory powder, jewelers rouge etc). These can be applied on a buffing wheel or used by hand.

Autobody shops will have a good selection of fine sandpapers. Start with grit about 600, and progress upwards. You will need to refinish the entire blade to get an even appearance. A mirror finish will require a final polish at about 3000 grit or higher.

As noted above, do nothing except oil an antique sword. Since you have already started scrubbing, and do not think either of these is valuable as an old sword, then by all means clean them up and enjoy.


Paracelsus