- Joined
- Dec 17, 2001
- Messages
- 1,055
I have to say I agree 100% with willgoy. Queen D2 just isn't worth the bother, to me. I own several, and only the fixed blade I got came anywhere near "sharp".
-- Sam
-- Sam
Advice needed on sharpening D2 Stockman
- Thread starter Big Dave
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2005
- Messages
- 819
I own a Sharpmaker and a few Lanskys, the Sharpmaker is excellent for touch ups but does have it's limitations and is not very good at reprofiling and edge which is what you need to do.
What I would do it pick up the best Lansky system (non-diamond) and then buy an extra-coarse diamond hone, the lansky is like a poor man's edge-pro. What you will have to do is reprofile that blade, I've found the 30degree angle to work great for slipjoints, but you can pick whatever angle you choose. Start with that extra coarse diamond hone, I have reprofiled knives with very thick blades and with steels harder than D2 with this hone. You can use heavy pressure and the grit is rougher than the sharpmaker diamond rods, just be warned that if you use heavier pressure the diamonds with wear off the steel faster. Once you have reprofiled the edge to the angle of your liking, move up the scale of the ceramic hones to your desired level of sharpness, I usually stop around medium because I like for the edge to be good at both push and draw cutting, but you can take it all the way to ultra-fine. I don't really care for the diamond systems because they leave the edge rougher than I like.
The only blade I've ever had bad results with on the Lansky is a sheepsfoot in a stockman and I believe is had to do with the way the blade is angled than the shape of the blade. Also about the smallest blade I've been able to do effectively is the spey blade of a stockman, or the pen blade of a Canoe, so I don't think it's a good system for Peanuts.
What I would do it pick up the best Lansky system (non-diamond) and then buy an extra-coarse diamond hone, the lansky is like a poor man's edge-pro. What you will have to do is reprofile that blade, I've found the 30degree angle to work great for slipjoints, but you can pick whatever angle you choose. Start with that extra coarse diamond hone, I have reprofiled knives with very thick blades and with steels harder than D2 with this hone. You can use heavy pressure and the grit is rougher than the sharpmaker diamond rods, just be warned that if you use heavier pressure the diamonds with wear off the steel faster. Once you have reprofiled the edge to the angle of your liking, move up the scale of the ceramic hones to your desired level of sharpness, I usually stop around medium because I like for the edge to be good at both push and draw cutting, but you can take it all the way to ultra-fine. I don't really care for the diamond systems because they leave the edge rougher than I like.
The only blade I've ever had bad results with on the Lansky is a sheepsfoot in a stockman and I believe is had to do with the way the blade is angled than the shape of the blade. Also about the smallest blade I've been able to do effectively is the spey blade of a stockman, or the pen blade of a Canoe, so I don't think it's a good system for Peanuts.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2005
- Messages
- 819
Just curious about the problems you've had the the Lanksy? If you look at the clamp there is an area at the end that is cut out, clamp the spine of the smaller knife blade in that recess and you shouldn't have a problem unless the blade is extremely thin or narrow. You might have already tried what I'm suggesting, but many people make the incorrect assumption that you have to clamp the blade way back in the clamp (which you do for large and thick blades) not so for pocket knife blades, hope this helps.
Exactly the same advice for the DMT Aligner!
On a Queen, I choose the double etch line above the name and # etch.
This way I can see if the clamp slips while I am sharpening, and gives me a standard position to sharpen from when I resharpen.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 1998
- Messages
- 39,923
FWIW, I never cared for sharpening jigs/gadgets for the most part except for very occasionally using the Sharpmaker (the stones for which I'd normally use freehand along with other bench or hand held stones).
Years ago, John Anthon of GATCO had sent me their EdgeMate sharpening system (and later the base for the unit). I didn't really care for the aluminum oxide hones (with or without oil) but the clamp and base seemed reasonably good. It sat on a shelf unused in my shop for years.
Recently, after a long discussion with Neeman via email I decided to give the DMT Diafolds (which I've had forever) a try with the DMT Magna-Guide setup.
First I tried it with their Aligner which comes with seven adjustable angles. I could see the potential but I was underwhelmed with the clamp (Aligner) itself since it had to be hand held.
I then began using the Diafolds/Magna-Guide with the GATCO clamp (15 degree slot) and optional base and was totally impressed with what this system could do.
Using this method I could setup in a minute or so, use four different diamond grits (as needed) from X-Coarse to X-Fine and then follow up on the Spyderco Sharpmaker 15 degree setting for a screaming edge in much less time than I could do it freehand. (The reason is that there are no wasted strokes which are not replicating the same angle freehand time after time.) The beauty of the GATCO clamp and base is that it is not only stable, but that you can flip the knife over and work the other side of the blade in a second or two with no adjusting or extra work.
When I'm done, I just rinse the DMT Diafolds in water and scrub gently with an old toothbrush. The ceramic hones are cleaned with one of those rubber erasers promoted for use on the ceramic sharpeners.
Quick, easy and effective. Last night I worked on a couple of knives I've recently acquired and had them both done within minutes.
I only use the gadgets for knives which either require rebeveling or have a section on the blade that was abused or much duller than the rest of the blade. Otherwise, I like to sharpen freehand.
Now, I've never used the Edgepro system which is widely reputed to be the best system available. However, my taste runs to simple, fast, easy to setup and easy to take down and clean. The method I have described above is the best that I have ever experienced at satisfying all of those elements so that using the setup isn't a chore that you don't want to be bothered with.
Hopefully, this will be of some help to those of you who shy away from "tougher" steels for fear of not being able to sharpen them.
And finally, a big shout out to Neeman who was the one that provided me with both the information and the motivation to give the Magna-Guide system a fair shot.
Years ago, John Anthon of GATCO had sent me their EdgeMate sharpening system (and later the base for the unit). I didn't really care for the aluminum oxide hones (with or without oil) but the clamp and base seemed reasonably good. It sat on a shelf unused in my shop for years.
Recently, after a long discussion with Neeman via email I decided to give the DMT Diafolds (which I've had forever) a try with the DMT Magna-Guide setup.
First I tried it with their Aligner which comes with seven adjustable angles. I could see the potential but I was underwhelmed with the clamp (Aligner) itself since it had to be hand held.
I then began using the Diafolds/Magna-Guide with the GATCO clamp (15 degree slot) and optional base and was totally impressed with what this system could do.
Using this method I could setup in a minute or so, use four different diamond grits (as needed) from X-Coarse to X-Fine and then follow up on the Spyderco Sharpmaker 15 degree setting for a screaming edge in much less time than I could do it freehand. (The reason is that there are no wasted strokes which are not replicating the same angle freehand time after time.) The beauty of the GATCO clamp and base is that it is not only stable, but that you can flip the knife over and work the other side of the blade in a second or two with no adjusting or extra work.
When I'm done, I just rinse the DMT Diafolds in water and scrub gently with an old toothbrush. The ceramic hones are cleaned with one of those rubber erasers promoted for use on the ceramic sharpeners.
Quick, easy and effective. Last night I worked on a couple of knives I've recently acquired and had them both done within minutes.
I only use the gadgets for knives which either require rebeveling or have a section on the blade that was abused or much duller than the rest of the blade. Otherwise, I like to sharpen freehand.
Now, I've never used the Edgepro system which is widely reputed to be the best system available. However, my taste runs to simple, fast, easy to setup and easy to take down and clean. The method I have described above is the best that I have ever experienced at satisfying all of those elements so that using the setup isn't a chore that you don't want to be bothered with.
Hopefully, this will be of some help to those of you who shy away from "tougher" steels for fear of not being able to sharpen them.
And finally, a big shout out to Neeman who was the one that provided me with both the information and the motivation to give the Magna-Guide system a fair shot.
After regrinding an edge on a hard S90V blade I think all other blade steels are easy as pie to sharpen. 
I do all my regrinding and sharpening edges free hand now, but a jig system is how I really learned to sharpen a knife. I highly recomend all the systems to anyone. They all have their + and - to them. But, they all will get a knife sharp once you learn them. I personally think the Queen D2 knives are the best bang for the steel slipjoint snobs.
I do all my regrinding and sharpening edges free hand now, but a jig system is how I really learned to sharpen a knife. I highly recomend all the systems to anyone. They all have their + and - to them. But, they all will get a knife sharp once you learn them. I personally think the Queen D2 knives are the best bang for the steel slipjoint snobs. - Joined
- Feb 13, 2006
- Messages
- 285
I don't have any Queens but I do have some D2 steel. DMT Dia-sharp stones. Course (if needed), fine then extra fine stones followed buy some Convex type sharpining with 1000grit then 2000 grit sandpaper on mouse pads then leather strope. You could even take it further, but that seemed to get my D2 Steel just as I wanted it! Once you get it, it is so easy to maintain. Very fine steel!!
If you don't have one of the doomagadgets, or even if you do, by a loupe magnifier - at least 10x - you will learn so much.
I just use benchstones, but someday I plan to learn to sharpen the Mike Stewart way because Bark Rivers are dang sharp. I just haven't had time to put a kit together and learn it.
I just use benchstones, but someday I plan to learn to sharpen the Mike Stewart way because Bark Rivers are dang sharp. I just haven't had time to put a kit together and learn it.
Does the X-Fine not give you a razor edge?
You need to finish with the SharpMaker?
Straight off the jig I regularly get a edge sharp enough to shave hair.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 1998
- Messages
- 39,923
Neeman,
Need probably has nothing to do with it. I have just come to really like the edge that I get when I finish on ceramic. (I generally just use a Spyderco "Double-Stuff" (which has the 5" x 1" fine and medium ceramic hones epoxied to one another) for most touch-ups.)
If you haven't tried ceramic, I highly recommend adding it to your arsenal.
I don't have a SharpMaker.
But I could get a ceramic from DMT for the jig.
I have a Falkiven double sided fine/ceramic, but I can't tell the difference to the final finish between DMT X-fine and the ceramic.
And from what is talked about, D2 being a large carbide steel does better with a toothy finish.
The classic question "When is sharp sharp enough?"
I find I can maintain a good edge with a couple of passes on my DMT X-Fine
- Joined
- Oct 2, 1998
- Messages
- 39,923
Well, in that case, to use another platitude, sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone.
:thumbup: Well, in that case, to use another platitude, sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone.
"sometimes it's best to leave well enough alone."
When is that??
I have never found out...
But it is fun...
On more platitudes.
I have a friend what lives his life with "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
I have to commend him on his totally boring life he lives!!!!