Age old question, best all around blade steel?

Joined
Nov 5, 2023
Messages
4
I have spyderco’s in Magnacut and K390, both blades within the first 1/2” or so of the tip, suffered a couple small “chips”, while cutting plastic zip ties. Normal? Or weird fluke? I also just got a new Microtech stitch in M390MK. It’s still in the box. Anyway looking for happy medium of toughness and edge retention that I don’t already have. I don’t want to worry if I hit staples or thin wire while cutting boxes and what not. Thanks for your input.
 
I think hitting staples or wire could chip or dent just about any steel depending on angle etc…

Magnacut is supposed to be all around well balanced. S30v Elmax Xhp cruwear - I enjoy many different steels and many perform well.
 
Doesn't surprise me that the M390 got a couple chips on zip ties, I haven't had any issues with Magnacut yet personally, but I've not had it long. My personal favorite for that type of uses that Spyderco offers would be Cruwear. M4 may be one you'll want to check out too.
 
Doesn't surprise me that the M390 got a couple chips on zip ties, I haven't had any issues with Magnacut yet personally, but I've not had it long. My personal favorite for that type of uses that Spyderco offers would be Cruwear. M4 may be one you'll want to check out too.
I haven’t used the m390 I mentioned it asking if it was a viable option for best of both worlds , thanks
 
I have spyderco’s in Magnacut and K390, both blades within the first 1/2” or so of the tip, suffered a couple small “chips”, while cutting plastic zip ties. Normal? Or weird fluke? I also just got a new Microtech stitch in M390MK. It’s still in the box. Anyway looking for happy medium of toughness and edge retention that I don’t already have. I don’t want to worry if I hit staples or thin wire while cutting boxes and what not. Thanks for your input.
I myself like 420C it’s durable easy to sharpen and it won’t rust and it’s easy on the wallet . And Buck Knives has been using it for decades . Hope this helps JMO . Talk Later-Mike
 
I have spyderco’s in Magnacut and K390, both blades within the first 1/2” or so of the tip, suffered a couple small “chips”, while cutting plastic zip ties. Normal? Or weird fluke? I also just got a new Microtech stitch in M390MK. It’s still in the box. Anyway looking for happy medium of toughness and edge retention that I don’t already have. I don’t want to worry if I hit staples or thin wire while cutting boxes and what not. Thanks for your input.
You might just need to sharpen it a couple times to get that burnt crap off the edge that factory sharpening produces.

Neither one of those steels should be particularly “chippy” unless it’s not heat treated right.
 
You might just need to sharpen it a couple times to get that burnt crap off the edge that factory sharpening produces.

Neither one of those steels should be particularly “chippy” unless it’s not heat treated right.
Thanks, yes they have the factory edges. The Microtech is new in box never used.
 
You might just need to sharpen it a couple times to get that burnt crap off the edge that factory sharpening produces.

Neither one of those steels should be particularly “chippy” unless it’s not heat treated right.

What he said.
Never judge the durability of a steel by how it performs as a factory edge.
Neither one of those steels should have an issue cutting zip ties.
 
I haven’t used the m390 I mentioned it asking if it was a viable option for best of both worlds , thanks
I have had some chipping on M390. It holds an edge farily well, but in my experience there are better choices for those tough to cut mediums. Zipties is something I've had M390 chip on more than once.
 
As much as I hate to say it, I’ve been impressed with Reeve’s S35VN. For a very long time I greatly disliked S35VN due to my first experience being a 3.5” XM18. I had a hell of a time getting it sharp and even tougher time keeping it sharp (I’ve since learned a ton about edge geometry). I have a full size Sebenza 21 with an Insingo blade and I abuse the hell out of it. Never a chip and holds a very sharp edge a long time.

For the record, I love M390 and it’s 2 cousins 20CV & 204P. I own a bunch of folders in those steels, but I won’t use them like the Reeve. I’ve had really good results with M4 but it’s prone to corrosion if not maintained. I only own 1 knife in XHP (Southard Tolk) but I’ve been pretty impressed with it.

Good luck and hopefully I was able to lend a little insight.
 
Conan: 'The riddle of steel!'

Thulsa Doom: 'Steel isn't strong-boy, flesh is stronger!'

Paraphrasing...what you hold, more importantly-how you use it is at the top of the list of factors. Material is subjective in this context.

Tulsa Doom could have been using Magnacut.

It wouldnt stop Conan and a sword made of movie prop-steel.
 
The steel you would use on a small blade would be much different than a large blade for obvious reasons.

For large blades, my all arounders are INFI, A8mod, K329, K340, 3v, S7, L6. But I would also settle for any of the tough plain carbon steels or even low carbon stainless steels.

For folding knives, I prefer a good stainless steel. S35VN, M390, AEB-l. I'll even go with old school steels like 440C, ATS34, VG1 and VG10. Well made and heat treated, any of these are excellent. My only requirement is that I should not need diamond stone to sharpen my blade. I carry 400 grit sand paper pieces to keep an edge going. If I can't sharpen with that, I am not buying it.

Basically, there is no one steel that fits everything. But you can make almost any steel fit a lot. I don't like non stainless steels in folding knives, because rust gets into areas that you cannot clean off without completely disassembling the knife.
 
I myself like 420C it’s durable easy to sharpen and it won’t rust and it’s easy on the wallet . And Buck Knives has been using it for decades . Hope this helps JMO . Talk Later-Mike
I agree. Hard to beat the versatility/cost sweet spot of something like a Buck 110 in 420HC, especially so before the recent price increase.
 
Back
Top