Almost embarassing to show y'all this >>

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Jan 11, 2007
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I just bought an older Randall that is in need of some pretty serious help. It has some pretty serious scaling and the previous owner cut the keeper off. I don't even know what model it is but the blade is 1/4" thick and 7" long. The Stone is rust colored and says 'FINE INDIA MADE IN USA'.

I'd like to have the blade refurbished and the keeper reinstalled (if possible). Can / should I send this back to the Randall Factory? What would the cost be for something like that? Any guess on how old it is and what it's worth?

Thanks!
 
Your knife looks like a Model 14, Combat Survival. If you look at the back of the sheath there should be a number such as 14. You can use the sheath as is just get some para cord and string it through the holes were you see the Randall Stamp or can look on ebay for a new one or if you are going to send the knife back to Randall they can fit it for a new one. I'm not sure what they charge for polishing and sharpening, it's a pretty reasonable charge. I'm sure there are other more knowledgable people than I who can give you more info. You can also post your picture and question on the Randall Knife Society website - http://www.knifetalkforums.com

Dan
 
AW,

Knives in similar condition that I've sent to the shop were recently quoted at $35 for the blade refinishing and $55 for a replacement sheath...that's about $100 including your shipping there, and they'll ship it back insured for around $15 more...

The idea to 'use as is' is a good one, and paracord through the belt loop holes will prolly work as well a a keeper strap...interchangeable 'C' model sheaths like yours aren't marked for the model number (14, 15, 17, 18, etc.) but a replacement sheath will be stamped 'R' - which may hurt resell value down the road...

Hope that helps,

Shel
 
As Bladerunner stated, it's a Model #14 (standard model w/no options) - this model runs hot and cold; unfortunately for some, right now it's cold...on any given day a person with a few hours on their hands can usually find a similar knife in mint/near mint, often with options, in the $400/$450 range...
 
Or even less. I got this new SS for $375 and its with custom options. Archwind, I like that used #14. Clean up yourself and use it hard. The picture of my sheath should give you and idea on how the paracord is used.

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LOL! culpeper, I'd wager that you had more than a few hours on your hands - but, point made....very good score bud, congrats! :cool:
 
Man, once I decide its time for a new Randall I can look for weeks and never come up for air.:)
 
Thank you all so much for the information. I checked the back of the sheath for a number and there wasn't one. My other Randall has 2 numbers - model # and blade length. I'm not really crazy about this particular knife so I may just put it on eBay as is & see what happens. Again guys, thanks!
 
...or perhaps he could send the sheath back to Greg Gutcher at Sullivan's Holster, who made it originally, and he could fit a new keeper to it?
 
Bruce,

Could be, but I kinda doubt it - in our Randall Knives reference book, we have a photo essay taken at Sullivan's showing the making of a Randall Knives sheath; photos 217 thru 259...the keeper strap is glued and stitched in. IMO, it would be too labor intensive to attempt such a repair; could be that I'm wrong though, I've been wrong before ;)

Shel
 

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Bruce,

Could be, but I kinda doubt it - in our Randall Knives reference book, we have a photo essay taken at Sullivan's showing the making of a Randall Knives sheath; photos 217 thru 259...the keeper strap is glued and stitched in. IMO, it would be too labor intensive to attempt such a repair; could be that I'm wrong though, I've been wrong before ;)

Shel

Well, I don't think you or I could do it, but I'm sure Greg could. If it were me, I'd let Greg do it to save the original sheath. I'm sure Greg has fixed bigger messes than this little hiccup.
 
Bruce,

Yes, of course, you're right, Greg 'probably' could fix it - I didn't mean to imply that he couldn't, not by any stretch...it's just that based on the assembly line method that Greg normally uses to make many similar sheaths (model & blade length) at one time, that to stop that process to repair one sheath would not be cost effective, i.e. it would probably be much less expensive to just purchase a assembled sheath, rather than to repair an existing sheath...

Our photos were taken on a Saturday, with Greg making only one sheath, start to finish - what he told us when finished was that on a normal M-F workweek, with Danny & Fran's help, using his precut leather components, he could normally make 20 to 30 standard Randall sheaths in the same amount of time that it took to make the one.

Could it be done, if Greg had the time? Sure, but at what cost...:confused:
 
I'm sure it wouldn't cost more than a new sheath and would probably be worth it to keep the original RMK stamps on the back versus an unmarked replacement sheath.

I don't know if Greg watches this forum like he used to. He could tell us.
 
I ended up getting this from archwind. It's my first Randall and I am really impressed with the quality of the knife. It needs a little work and am going to polish the blade myself. I added a new keeper and snap to the sheath, don't think it will hurt the value too much as the original keeper strap was already gone. I will post a few photos when I am finished with the blade. Here is a photo of the repaired sheath with some new 550 cord. Didn't have any Randall snaps so just used a baby dot snap. I used acorn brown dye, close but not exact.
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Randalls were made to be used and worked. Most aren't anymore, and I understand that...they are expensive. But, consider what the others are telling you. Because your knife isn't perfect you can, with clean conscience take that baby anywhere and use the heck out of it. And, you will be carrying one of the finest edge tools made. I'd think twice before ebaying that deal away.
The sheath can be fixed easily. Get a strip of leather about a half inch wide, and long enough to reach from snap over the knife to the lowest right hand lacing hole on the leather belt loop. Stick the strip in between the belt loop leather and rivet thru the back hole. Nail down a snap on the other end and yer done. You can get a rivet and snap kit at the hardware store or a farm store. If you don't want to do that take it to a saddle shop or a shoe repair place and they can do it for you. (Can't imagine it would cost more than a few bucks)Your knife will be secure and you will not have violated the sheath in case you later opt to restore it to original.
A little Flitz paste will make the blade look cleaner. Put a beautiful working edge on and enjoy.
As far as I can tell it is, as suggested a model 14 "attack".
 
This is from the "Knife care" section off of the Randall web sight. You might be able to clean that knife up a little on your own:

http://www.randallknives.com/knifecare.php

"Before it leaves our shop, the cutting edge of every Randall Made knife is carefully honed by hand, ready to use for its intended purpose. However, the bevel and edge of a knife designed for cutting skin and flesh are much different from those used to hack bone or other hard materials.

Using a fine hunting knife for an axe will naturally damage its cutting edge. And pounding, prying, or throwing a knife not designed for these purposes is likely to damage it.

We strongly suggest that if you'll use your knife for a special heavy-duty purpose, let us know when you order so we can shape the blade and bevel accordingly.

To protect your knife, it should be cleaned and thoroughly dried after use. If it will be stored for some time, coat it with a protective and leave it out of the sheath. Many owners of Randall Made knives say they successfully care for them by exhibiting them on their wall or desk.

Carving knives require the same care as hunting knives. It is not advisable to immerse them in water with regular tableware. Wiping and drying the blade is generally sufficient. All carbon steel blades will become stained in cutting meat because of acids in the meat; this discoloration will not harm the blade. It can easily be removed if desired by polishing with crocus cloth.

If through lack of care rust appears on the blade, remove it before pitting begins by using a fine grit emery cloth or steel wool and oil.

Never throw a knife unless you're an expert and know you won't make a poor throw that harms the knife. If the urge to throw a knife is overpowering, it is advisable to obtain our Model 9 Pro Thrower.

You cannot cut bone, nails, bolts or pierce metal with a cutting edge and point designed for meat despite some advertising to the contrary. We have done extensive tests and find such feats cannot be performed unless the design of the cutting edge and point is altered.

On leather handles, use shoe polish or saddle soap to keep the leather from drying out. Use metal polish on the hilt and butt.

For the sheath use shoe polish or saddle soap. We do NOT advise using oil because it will soften the leather and keep the sheath flexible, making it difficult to sheathe the knife. To darken the sheath, use dark polish or dye.

All knives require sharpening occasionally after use. We recommend that the blade be kept well honed at all times, for a sharp knife is safer to use than a dull one."
 
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