Any issues switching from stropping to stones and back??

bodydamage

bodydamage

Joined
Jan 10, 2007
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I think I finally have my Gatco kit down.. I sharpened a $2 folder tonight that we used to cut sod with to hair dragging sharp.. Now, I want to go one step further.. Im going to try stropping on a piece of cardboard. The cardboard will give it a convex edge correct?? Now if I got back to the Gatco again for nick touch-ups or anything more than the strop can fix, will this back and forth take too much material off the blade?? The reason I really want to get this down is, I finally got an Emerson and its scary sharp and I really want to use the hell out of it and keep it as sharp as it is w/ out screwing it up.. Thanks..
 
Never tried to convex an edge on cardboard but I am sure it will be an effort in futility. I would suggest you convex it with a belt sander, I have found that to be the quickest and easiest way for me to do it..I see where others have done it on some backing covered with different types of sandpaper. If you search for convex sharpening you will get a lot of ideas..
KC
 
Maybe I meant to say final sharpening with a strop, instead of convexing the edge.. Will I run into any issues switching back and forth from stropping to stones, not convexing to stones.. I just assumed the strop gave it a convex edge, therefor the terms were interchangeable..
 
No issues. They serve different purposes. Stones are for removing material to sharpen a blade. Stropping smoothes with an extremely fine abrasive to put a final finish on a blade.
 
The strop won't convex the edge, it can polish convexed, concave, flat, saber, scandanavian grinds or any grind you want, it doesn't remove enough metal the change the blade grind to a convex at all unless you strop a knife 24/7 for the next 50years.
 
This is more common with leather strop's because they have more give in the surface. The cardboard, I don't think will have exactly the same effect because it is not as soft. Yes a leather strop (with compound) will convex any edge unless the leather is very thin but it is not enough to cause you problems. Touching up the edge once stropped is very easy, just start with your fine stone to clean up the edge then re-strop, you can do this several times before the knife needs to be re-beveled. Everyone sharpens differently, I sharpen free hand using no micro-bevels because sharpening free hand naturally convexes the edge but that's not to say I don't use them for touch-up's. Good luck and get some leather and compound it will make life easier.
 
yoopernauts™;6047026 said:
Where's a good place to purchase strops?
Click to expand...

Bark River.....JRE Industries....many other places sell them. Do you have an old leather belt lying around? I generally take an old leather belt...rough it up a bit with 600 or 800 grit sand paper and then apply the compound. I usually end up gluing the belt, or pieces of it to a block of wood....plexiglass...or anything that is flat and will stay flat. I got 3 good size strops out of one old belt.
 
yoopernauts™;6047026 said:
Where's a good place to purchase strops?
Click to expand...

Bark River.....JRE Industries....many other places sell them. Do you have an old leather belt lying around? I generally take an old leather belt...rough it up a bit with 600 or 800 grit sand paper and then apply the compound. I usually end up gluing the belt, or pieces of it to a block of wood....plexiglass...or anything that is flat and will stay flat. I got 3 good size strops out of one old belt.
 
I use green compound on regular old corrugated cardboard and can curl newspaper afterwards.. I put it in the oven at like 150 or 175 degrees just to get it warm and then rub the compound in, and do that 3 or 4 times.. Works like a champ..
 
Ive heard of people rigging their own "strops" to their edgepro machines

I have the DMT aligner which is much like your gatco and i have been pondering taping magazine paper or building a cardboard "stone" to help finish up my knives with the same accuracy as sharpening via guided rod.

this is certainly cheaper than buying a true leather strop and compound etc. I'm sure varying grits of sandpaper can be rigged to the dmt similarly
 
What about use some 1000 grit wet/dry paper on a block for final edge?

I'm not saying it's a good, just wonder how well it'll work for polishing.
 
I think rigging a strop on a guide is kind of overkill. The angle really isnt that important when stropping. I mean, get it close, but all you are doing is polishing the edge, not making or removing burr.
 
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