Any update on the spyderco bushcraft knife? Sal?

I will say my 52100 custom Shane Justice made for me rusted in a heartbeat. I removed the rust and cold blued the blade.

Of course, I used this knife even more- I just couldn't pry with it the way I did that thick piece of 52100!

n69403225_30220892_9193.jpg
 
Hi Hunter,

No plans for a FB Native at this time. The Native4 is out next, then we redesign and tool for a FRN Native4.

Hi Ted,

We're planning to use a stabilized wood, probably maple or elder burl.

sal
 
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Mors Kochanski gave a great definition for a bush knife:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mors_Kochanski

The blade of your knife should be extremely strong, easily resharpened, and capable of holding a fine edge. If you can touch it to your throat and draw blood, whack it against a frozen deer bone without rolling the edge, and pound the tip 2 inches into a tree trunk at a right angle to the grain and stand on it without breaking it, you've got the prerequisites of a woodman's knife.

In addition:
# The blade should be as long as the width of your palm, with the metal extending the full length of the handle.
# The back of the blade should run in a straight line with the back of the handle and be wide and flat so that it can be used with a baton (a stick used as a hammer).
# The cutting edge should curve gently from tip to guard to facilitate sharpening, with the point falling in line with the center of the handle. It should also have a flat grind (hollow-ground blades bind when driven into wood). Serrations have no place on the blade of your knife-they can't be resharpened easily and the occur on the part of a blade you need for most detail work.
# A small, lower finger guard is acceptable but not necessary. An upper guard is an abomination, interfering with placing the thumb or forefinger along the top of the blade for control.
# The but should be flat and durable enough for you to pound on.

http://www.karamat.com/articlefs.html
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A strong drop point fixed blade carbon steel knife with a flat pommel for pounding it into things and a nice flat blade top for batoning. Stainless if you have other fire-making ways. Not sure I fully agree about serrations, particularly in a surprise survival situation where sharpening the knife might be difficult even if plain-edge. A bright-coloured handle for when you drop it is a good idea too.
 
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I have some photos of the model that was shown during the A'Dam show this year. Spyderco would need to confirm here if these can be posted however.
 
Man, I wish I could oblige, but the ball is very firmly in Sal's court. I am even holding off posting a couple pics of knives I have made recently that are based on the same pattern.
:rolleyes::D
 
You can show them Ted, thanx for taking them and thanx for asking.

Then we can Chris to comment on the changes planned.

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
You can show them Ted, thanx for taking them and thanx for asking.

Then we can Chris to comment on the changes planned.

sal
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Thanks Sal.

Here are the pictures I took at the show. Perhaps Wouter (Mr.Blonde) has some better ones. Can't wait till this model makes it to production!

bush1.jpg


bush2.jpg


bush3.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics Ted:thumbup:

Better than mine from Leeds;)

It was very dark at Leeds and the DSLR was at home:eek:

Great knives, but I prefer Chris' convex proto to the scandi ground protos from Spyderco:cool:

Sverre
 
That's a handy looking, stout little knife made of one of my favorite steels. The more I see it, and think about it the better I like the idea. O-1 takes a very nice edge, and can be fun to sharpen.

The quickly warming on the idea Joe.

BTW, that's breaking more new ground for Spyderco. Long Live Sal! Joe
 
NoFair said:
....

Great knives, but I prefer Chris' convex proto to the scandi ground protos from Spyderco:cool:

Sverre
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Yeah, well, to be honest, I like flat/convex better too:rolleyes: but there are an awful lot of hardcore woodcraft/bushcraft users who prefer the scandi grind. Also, and this is something I said very early on, if you want a flat/convex knife with a four inch blade and slab handles, or just a strong tang, you have a huge range to choose from already. Bark River, RAT, Ontario, Fallkniven, TOPS, and Benchmade (just the first that came to mind) make knives which are close to filling that bill. Although, few have handles as well shaped as this new Spyderco ;):D

The flat grind also worksas intended :D
SpyderFeathers.jpg


There were some changes suggested after the Leeds Meet. The important ones at this stage are the thickness of the stock being reduced from 4mm (5/32") to something between 3mm and 1/8th" and the move to a parallel, skelletonized tang. The former to improve slicing, and reduce weight and the latter to make it more feasable for Sal to (perhaps) offer bare blades for folk to put their own handles on. Tapered tangs are a pain to put slabs on if you haven't done a few before (ok, I have done a few and still find it a pain:D). Oh, and the lanyard tube is to get a little smaller. I don't use a lanyard ofen but that smaller tube makes a nice tool for directing air when blowing camp fire embers to life. A simple but nice dual use.
 
I like it, but I prefer the convex over Scandi as well.

Obviously, both cut well, but Scandi is too much a pain for me to sharpen, whereas I can strop a convex quite nicely. And I also just prefer the the look of convex.

I personally like 4mm / 5/32", but the thicker is probably better with convex flat. Whereas with Scandi, 3mm to 1/8th" might be better. Either is good.

I agree with skeletonizing over tapered. Tapered looks nice, but probably too much a pain for production and skeletonzing should offer more versatility for mods. Plus, skeletonizing seems to reduce even more weight (????).

.
 
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