Anyone bevel/chamfer the Spydiehole?

GCBC

GCBC

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Anyone on here radius/chamfer the spydie hole so its not so outrageously sharp?

Dont have the tooling but a 30* bevel on both sides of it then polish it would not only save your fingers but also look awesome.

I have a Dremel and all kinds of polish but would take ages just sticking a cone bit in there and spinning away like a dozen bits to do anything to the steel... need a hard tool like a slighter larger drill bit and just touch it on a drill press.
 
Drill bit would chatter from the steel hardness.

I'd suggest using a big ball bearing or glass marble (anything hard and rounded) with 220 grit wet& dry sandpaper. Follow up with 400 grit. WD40 or Soap and water for lube.

Doing a sharp angle as in that 30° with just leave a sharp bevel that's at 30°. Using something rounded will leave a curved edge with no sharp angle.
 
30 years ago they came chamfered from the factory.

Boy, I sound old. This was my first Spyderco - first knife with a pocket clip, and first knife with any provision for one handed opening.

Current day Spydercos, I break the edge with a ceramic or diamond/CBN rod or triangle from a Sharpmaker.

66C33AC2-8D68-4650-AEC7-01C15AE21A6A.jpeg
 
Culprit99 said:
30 years ago they came chamfered from the factory.

Boy, I sound old. This was my first Spyderco - first knife with a pocket clip, and first knife with any provision for one handed opening.

Current day Spydercos, I break the edge with a ceramic or diamond/CBN rod or triangle from a Sharpmaker.

View attachment 2309303
Click to expand...
Knife like that should be in the Spyderco museum, assuming one exists.
 
I think the sharp edge is a benefit, it provides good traction. I have knives by other manufacturers that have blade holes that are chamfered and my thumb will slip off of the edge too easily when trying to open. That never happens with a Spyderco blade hole.
I understand that it is possible for a blade hole to be sharper than normal and some slight adjustment might be required and I stress the slight part of it. Do just a bit with the sandpaper and test it, leave it as sharp as you can stand it to gain the benefit of the traction. If you round it too much for it to work properly, you can't put the material back.
 
I’m a huge fan of the sharp edge in the Spyderco hole. I really dislike the Taiwan made blades with a chamfered hole.
 
I actually like the sharp edge. Prevents any kind of slipping. Actually works well with a fire steel too in a pinch.
 
Wow. I’m really surprised how many folks like the sharp edge, and are worried about their thumb slipping. I’ve used the knife I posted a picture of above with the factory chamfer on the hole across four continents and 30 years and have never experienced that problem in any condition from sub-zero to 136 degrees Fahrenheit, cold, wet, dusty, etc.
 
I did it with the cold steel tough lite because left handed that thing is really bad.

I just smoothed out the top bit with a dremmel.

It worked really well.
 
I just lightly rub a ceramic rod around it, use it for a while, then repeat until perfect amount of sharpness. The seki ones usually do come a bit sharp for me but it doesn't take much to get from too sharp to just right
 
I did mine with a diamond rod and sandpaper just knocking off the sharp edge makes a difference, and you cant see it past the satin/belt finish anyway..the only sharp edge should be the cutting edge.
Much nicer and more sensible mod than the cable tie malarky.These are the guys bangin on about thumbslip...it was one of gecko45's big problems with spyderco in general.
 
Thumbslip? Sounds like an isolated individual issue to me. Was carrying an assisted knife with a thumb stud yesterday that I got in a trade. The stud caught on a sloppily sewn pocket thread on its way out and deployed into my pocket. No injuries but could have been dangerous. Now I remember why I prefer thumb holes and non spring opening knives.
 
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I once had a PacSalt with a really sharp Spydiehole. I soothed it down slightly. I don’t think I had a ceramic rod at the time, so I probably twirled a Dremel bit between my fingers.
 
I never had a hole that was sharp but I did have a sharp edge on the plunge grind at the bottom of the hole that cut my thumb.

Used a sharpmaker rod and no problem anymore.
 
I've had a fair amount of Spydie's and only ever had one too sharp for me (can't remember what model). I taped the edge (for safety), took a pretty fine grit sandpaper and wrapped it around a screwdriver shaft, then holding both ends twirled the knife on the Spydiehole for a dozen or so revolutions until I attained the surface I wanted.

edit to add: I believe it was a sprint Stretch carbon fiber ZDP-189.
 
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