Axe? Please educate me

Is there a benefit to Delta 3V in an axe head? Does an axe head benefit from an abrasion resistant high hardness steel?

I would say yes but I think it would depend on geographic location.
For daily blazing and chopping I use an Iltis OxHead which is pretty thin and definitely a harder steel than normal (this is true for older Plumb axes which are my favourite).
This being said I am in the north which is predominately softwood forest vs. the hardwoods out east.
I would say the best bet would be make a softwood and a hardwood version with different steel-property objectives. This is all depending on whether you are making the heads and going with a wood handle (the only way to go for a large axe) or a full tang.
Full tang I have had great luck using a Wenger Beohawk in 80CrV2 @ 59rc. Not sure if this is the best steel option or not but it has a great forward can’t and a convex profile on the blade which I think is essential for non-binding while chopping.

Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist dude if you are making a go at this I need to start saving because I literally chop with an axe at least 150-200 times a day if not more and an optimized steel axe would be perfect.
 
Is there a benefit to Delta 3V in an axe head? Does an axe head benefit from an abrasion resistant high hardness steel?

imo, only if it's more of a woodsman's / camping axe with a relatively slim profile. I don't think high hardness is something you'd want in most axes, but it really depends on what you want to achieve, ie; who is the target buyer?

the benefit to the cnc is the ability to add structural components that decrease weight for something of similar size and durability that's forged

my design would roughly take a billet 1.25"x5.5"x8" and accommodate a handle length 20-24". It would be designed for general wood crafty things, including carving, be highly accurate and as light as it could be while maintaining sturdiness and could be counted on to fell a tree or split some wood. A multi purpose tool with an emphasis on precision work, and especially to accompany a chainsaw, where wedges must be pounded and sometimes you need to cut your pinched bar out
 
This is all really exciting.

Nathan: I've got a spare Small Forrest Axe and Scandinavian Forrest axe that I could send over if it would help any in the process. You could play around with them and send them back whenever and in whatever condition.
 
I was reading that most axe heads are intentionally left under 50 on the Rockwell scale. That because we strike with them we need them softer to prevent unnecessary edge damage.

Yeah, knives used to be run soft too. We're winning the hell out of cutting competitions with big choppers at HRC 64....
 
Regardless of how many times someone is told not to use the poll of an axe for striking, it will be done. Will 3V handle that abuse without fracturing? Or is a differential heat possible? Would a more pronounced S grind be beneficial to help prevent sticking? Or would it actually be counter productive in an axe? And how would you integrate the EDC handle into an axe? ;)
 
I would say yes but I think it would depend on geographic location.
For daily blazing and chopping I use an Iltis OxHead which is pretty thin and definitely a harder steel than normal (this is true for older Plumb axes which are my favourite).
This being said I am in the north which is predominately softwood forest vs. the hardwoods out east.
I would say the best bet would be make a softwood and a hardwood version with different steel-property objectives. This is all depending on whether you are making the heads and going with a wood handle (the only way to go for a large axe) or a full tang.
Full tang I have had great luck using a Wenger Beohawk in 80CrV2 @ 59rc. Not sure if this is the best steel option or not but it has a great forward can’t and a convex profile on the blade which I think is essential for non-binding while chopping.

Nathan the Machinist Nathan the Machinist dude if you are making a go at this I need to start saving because I literally chop with an axe at least 150-200 times a day if not more and an optimized steel axe would be perfect.

I think we have the same Oxhead axe, it's super handy
 
Would LOVE a CPK version of this.......

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Gränsfors Bruk Ray Mears Wilderness Axe
 
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Is there a benefit to Delta 3V in an axe head? Does an axe head benefit from an abrasion resistant high hardness steel?

To answer this, assuming this was a serious question, is that it would absolutely benefit an axe head. The intended target of wood is not necessarily terribly abrasive to the steel in itself, but there is always dirt and mud on the bark somewhere you end up cutting through. Then there is the inevitability that your going to hit it into the dirt at some point. This is more abrasive. Where this is would stand out from others the most though is the fine edge stability of D3V when it finds a rock or a nail.

As for design elements, there is plenty of ways to go. I like what has been described so far by Andy, Justin, and Lorien and would trust any of these guys with input on this. Something lightweight, packable, and versatile enough for various camp/woodcraft chores.

Finally, the cost. I don’t think anyone on here is going to accuse you of price gouging or charging a penny more than what is fair. Quite the opposite as evidence by the demand of your sales and resale prices of your products. So for me, charge what you need to in order to make this project worth your while. We’ll be there waiting Friday at 2:59.

And thanks in advance!

Also, if you need someone to test one out.......
 
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