Above would work.
I would have suggested, you don't actually need that piece on the front of the bow.
As such, an orbital sander with some 80 grit sandpaper would take that down rather quickly, go slow so you don't heat it up.
Move up to 150 grit, make sure everything's nice and smooth move up to 220 then go into 400 grit to smooth and polish.
Spray on a little lacquer to seal everything up and shoot it.
You got lucky, the 45 pounders actually shootable and nowhere near as harsh as anything over 50 in the Kodiak Magnum.
Also it's not green like three out of five Kodiak Magnums you find. Not that I don't like the green ones I've owned about a half dozen but damn drop them bad boys in the woods and it's gone.
All in all the Kodiak Magnums not a bad bow Little hard on the elbows and the fingers but they're great for bowfishing.
Not the collector's item that most people think they are, so keeping it stock or keeping it in pristine 1970s condition is not something you're going to need to do. It's a bow take it out in the woods sling wood.
Have fun, use wood arrows.
The other thing about bear Kodiak Magnums they shoot center string so they're pretty lenient on the poundage for arrows or spine weight. I never liked how high The brace height was listed for bear bows.
I always dropped it down a little bit farther by adding an inch or two to the string length. go with the Flemish twist string if you can get it, you can always just give it a little bit more twist on both ends and shorten it or lengthen it to get the brace height where it's comfortable for you.
Three Rivers archery is a good place to start. Little bit of beaver fur for silencers, and you should have a nice little bow to shoot in the woods. Yes you can quiet down a Kodiak Magnum, you have to offset the string silencers can't center them, but you can get it quiet if you play with it.
