Becker Modifications and Inspirations Thread - NO CHATTING!
- Thread starter DerekH
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- Joined
- Jan 24, 2011
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- 8,905
Chopped, stripped, patina forced, homemade micarta handles with red fiber liners, stainless hardware, homemade kydex.
I love this!
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- Nov 18, 2010
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BK14 with the blade stripped (via sanding) jimped, and patina'ed.
Soaked in hot distilled white vinegar and lime juice, after several minutes removed, washed, dried, then stuck back in the patina mix. Did this about 7 times, pics are at after soak number 5.
And this morning:
Soaked in hot distilled white vinegar and lime juice, after several minutes removed, washed, dried, then stuck back in the patina mix. Did this about 7 times, pics are at after soak number 5.
And this morning:
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- Joined
- Apr 3, 2011
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- 5,368
Here's my becker bk2. What I did: stippled the grips, added jimping on the spine over 50%, added scandi ground Veff serrations to the belly of the blade, cerakoted the entire knife and handle.
The serrations on the tip are because a lot of time you carve with the heel of the edge and cut rope with both the heel and the belly, so therefore I didn't want serrations at the heel. I put them on the belly because, even long after a typical survival knife goes dull and is ineffective, this one will continue to rip and tear, even if it doesn't cut... making it effective for a variety of tasks. that's what I like about serrations, they last a lot longer. The reason I stippled the top of the grips and not the bottom was because now, I can still chop with it without getting hot spots since the bottom of the grips are smooth. Hope you like it!
The serrations on the tip are because a lot of time you carve with the heel of the edge and cut rope with both the heel and the belly, so therefore I didn't want serrations at the heel. I put them on the belly because, even long after a typical survival knife goes dull and is ineffective, this one will continue to rip and tear, even if it doesn't cut... making it effective for a variety of tasks. that's what I like about serrations, they last a lot longer. The reason I stippled the top of the grips and not the bottom was because now, I can still chop with it without getting hot spots since the bottom of the grips are smooth. Hope you like it!
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2011
- Messages
- 953
Amazing stuff guys. Veff serrated BK2, outta this world. Here's my recents.
BK7 hand polished to mirror finish, starting with 120 grit, ending in 2000 grit, with about 12 grits in between. And 3-stage Patina using Lemon juice, then Mango chunks, then Vinegar/Whole grain mustard mix.
Applying the Mango patina
last couple pics are before final polishing.
BK7 hand polished to mirror finish, starting with 120 grit, ending in 2000 grit, with about 12 grits in between. And 3-stage Patina using Lemon juice, then Mango chunks, then Vinegar/Whole grain mustard mix.
Applying the Mango patina
last couple pics are before final polishing.
BK2 Tiger camo blade
*taped up and paint stripper applied.
Thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/857434-my-BK2-something-different
Floppy nylon belt loop remedy.
Thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/879374-Flop-fixed-without-Viagra
*taped up and paint stripper applied.
Thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/857434-my-BK2-something-different
Floppy nylon belt loop remedy.
Thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/879374-Flop-fixed-without-Viagra
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2011
- Messages
- 3,198
BK11: Stripped, resist etched with Beckerhead number, cold blue etched design, Plum's brown patina, dyed hemp/leather and epoxy handle wrap, custom scout-carry leather sheath. Creation thread is here.
BK2: Stripped, Plum's brown patina, dyed and sanded (150) micarta scales, custom kydex sheath.
Limited Edition BK10: Satin finish, cocobolo scales.
BK2: Stripped, Plum's brown patina, dyed and sanded (150) micarta scales, custom kydex sheath.
Limited Edition BK10: Satin finish, cocobolo scales.
Camillus BK7 mod. finally finished!
See complete process @ http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/870027-camillus-BK7-modify-project
Started with a well loved standard Camillus BK7 and a new Kabar BK7. Grivory mod & stainless hardware on both on them. The Camillus got stripped of its coating polished-like and made red/bleu lines.
after first sanding/polishing and added black kydex liners
Final
Custom kydex sheath by Martin Swinkels:
See complete process @ http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/870027-camillus-BK7-modify-project
Started with a well loved standard Camillus BK7 and a new Kabar BK7. Grivory mod & stainless hardware on both on them. The Camillus got stripped of its coating polished-like and made red/bleu lines.
after first sanding/polishing and added black kydex liners
Final
Custom kydex sheath by Martin Swinkels:
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- Mar 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,406
Took off the thumb ramp, ground down the butt to the contour of the scales, stripped it, etched my BH number into it and gavie it a vineager bath. Finished it off with some Kabar micarta and here she is.
My Bro owns a window tint shop and hooked me up with the BECKERHEAD 111 decal. I stripped the paint off the blade and laid down the decal then applied 5-6 coats of paint to the entire knife. Once the paint had dried I peeled the decal off one letter at a time exposing the bare metal. I let it soak in the echant for roughly 12 hours. Pulled it out, cleaned it up and stripped the rest of the paint off. Then she went into the vineager for an hour or so.
I will add this note of caution. If folks decide to try this, make sure your paint is good and dry before etching as the echant will attack any bare surface. I did end up with a couple of little bubbles on the cutting edge and the solution did take some material away from those places. If I were to do it again I would try and keep the cutting edge out of the solution all together.
My Bro owns a window tint shop and hooked me up with the BECKERHEAD 111 decal. I stripped the paint off the blade and laid down the decal then applied 5-6 coats of paint to the entire knife. Once the paint had dried I peeled the decal off one letter at a time exposing the bare metal. I let it soak in the echant for roughly 12 hours. Pulled it out, cleaned it up and stripped the rest of the paint off. Then she went into the vineager for an hour or so.
I will add this note of caution. If folks decide to try this, make sure your paint is good and dry before etching as the echant will attack any bare surface. I did end up with a couple of little bubbles on the cutting edge and the solution did take some material away from those places. If I were to do it again I would try and keep the cutting edge out of the solution all together.
