Belt sander options (not brand)

[Lorien]

one of the most useful power tools, besides a drill press, for me has been a bandsaw. Corded portable bandsaws can go for well under $100. When I made my first half dozen or so knives, the only power tool involved was a hand drill. Everything else was hacksaw, files, sandpaper. The biggest pain in the ass for me at that time was cutting my patterns from stock. I'd recommend trying to do all of your handle shaping with files, a great way to -slowly- end up with almost exactly what you want.

 

[GRapp]

I bought a 1x30 from HF when I started and quickly realized it’s too fast for me. I got a Grizzly 2x42 and discovered variable speed a game changer. The Grizzly can be modified to suit many ways, the 1x30, not so much. A member here sells quality attachments and upgrades for the Grizzly, 1x30, not so much. If you decide knife making isn’t for you, you could probably get at least half of your money back if you sold the Grizzly, 1x30, no chance of recovery. You can probably deduct that I’m not a pro maker because I use a $300 Chinese grinder so take that into consideration. However, I’d hate for you to be discouraged and quit because of low quality tools.
Some say variable speed is a must. I wish you luck in whatever you decide!

 

[Drew Riley]

My recommendation would be to find a local knife maker who already has some (or all) of these tools and see if you can't stop by his shop for an hour or two and try a couple of them out. Granted, they may have a 2x72 instead of a 1x30, but you'll still be able to get a good idea of the difference between a flat platen, contact wheel, disc grinder, etc...

Like Stacy said, fill out your profile and tell us where you're at. If you're anywhere close to NW Indiana, I'd say come on by.

Also, FWIW, there are a number of 2x72 options out there for less than $2k, and many of them can be added onto with more fixtures, tools arms, accessories, etc... in the future as needs and funds allow. Not sure what kind of tools you have access to, or how handy you are just yet, but you could always save a few bucks initially by building your own, or getting a "kit grinder" that you put together yourself. Depending on where you get it from, it may require welding, or some basic drilling and tapping, but it's usually a more inexpensive option. I'd also keep an eye on the local "classifieds" (eBay, facebook, craigslist, etc...) and you may just find somebody getting rid of one for cheap. You may have to drive 3 or 4 hours, but.....

The nice thing about a lot of these tools we use, is that even if you ultimately decide you don't like knife making as much as you thought you would, they can be used for loads of other things.
Or you can probably put them right back up for sale and get most or all of your money back. Either way, you picked a good time to get into knife making. There's never been more tools, options, or information available as there is right now.

 

[wesessiah]

My recommendation would be to find a local knife maker who already has some (or all) of these tools and see if you can't stop by his shop for an hour or two and try a couple of them out. Granted, they may have a 2x72 instead of a 1x30, but you'll still be able to get a good idea of the difference between a flat platen, contact wheel, disc grinder, etc...

Like Stacy said, fill out your profile and tell us where you're at. If you're anywhere close to NW Indiana, I'd say come on by.

Also, FWIW, there are a number of 2x72 options out there for less than $2k, and many of them can be added onto with more fixtures, tools arms, accessories, etc... in the future as needs and funds allow. Not sure what kind of tools you have access to, or how handy you are just yet, but you could always save a few bucks initially by building your own, or getting a "kit grinder" that you put together yourself. Depending on where you get it from, it may require welding, or some basic drilling and tapping, but it's usually a more inexpensive option. I'd also keep an eye on the local "classifieds" (eBay, facebook, craigslist, etc...) and you may just find somebody getting rid of one for cheap. You may have to drive 3 or 4 hours, but.....

The nice thing about a lot of these tools we use, is that even if you ultimately decide you don't like knife making as much as you thought you would, they can be used for loads of other things.
Or you can probably put them right back up for sale and get most or all of your money back. Either way, you picked a good time to get into knife making. There's never been more tools, options, or information available as there is right now.

I have a small farm, so you're definitely right, I could find some use for any of it, lol.

I'm in central/western-ish NC. I know there was a knife maker named butch in my area, because my father in laws brother was a tomahawk maker, and he was friends with butch. I don't know his last name or anything though.

Stay simple and use 1/8" brass pins.

Yeah that's probably gonna best, especially to begin with.

Just NO to roll pins. Brass pins are a good start. Maybe not most long life durable, but simple to install, low cost, easy to shape. All of which are better for your early progress.

Don’t make full tangs. Make hidden tangs with Micarta frames and wood scales. Much easier to cut out and shape the steel. Leaves you more leeway on handle shaping while you figure out what is comfortable, and no hard tang to hit and blunt files on.
Frame Tang by Last Scratch, on Flickr

D

Thread 'Explain the idea of frame tang'

Nov 9, 2018

A hidden tang, slot double guard knife that's made in a way that makes it look like it's full tang, even though it isn't...

What is the reasoning behind this knife handle design? Are there a lot of practical advantages to it compared to a regular one piece hidden tang handle, or is it made mainly for esthetic reasons?

• Dr Heelhook
• Replies: 15
• Forum: Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers

A disc sander is nice for putting a flat bevel on the leading edge of a handle scale. I was given a separate 10” Proxxon disc sander and it isn’t something I use much.

I take it the roll pins are a pain in the ass to use? Lol. I figured the hollow look could be neat, but I can stay away for now.
Thanks for the information.

one of the most useful power tools, besides a drill press, for me has been a bandsaw. Corded portable bandsaws can go for well under $100. When I made my first half dozen or so knives, the only power tool involved was a hand drill. Everything else was hacksaw, files, sandpaper. The biggest pain in the ass for me at that time was cutting my patterns from stock. I'd recommend trying to do all of your handle shaping with files, a great way to -slowly- end up with almost exactly what you want.

I didn't even think about a portable band saw. Hacksaw, I could picture that getting frustrating quick for not just straight lines. I used the rotary tool/Dremel and chainsaw files for the handle/finger grooves/choil. Thanks for the tips.

I bought a 1x30 from HF when I started and quickly realized it’s too fast for me. I got a Grizzly 2x42 and discovered variable speed a game changer. The Grizzly can be modified to suit many ways, the 1x30, not so much. A member here sells quality attachments and upgrades for the Grizzly, 1x30, not so much. If you decide knife making isn’t for you, you could probably get at least half of your money back if you sold the Grizzly, 1x30, no chance of recovery. You can probably deduct that I’m not a pro maker because I use a $300 Chinese grinder so take that into consideration. However, I’d hate for you to be discouraged and quit because of low quality tools.
Some say variable speed is a must. I wish you luck in whatever you decide!

Variable speed sounds nice. The one from work I use is a 6" single speed, it's a bit much. The Grizzly sounds like a good starting point from what y'all say.

 

[Taz]

Look at Iwasaki Razor files. They cut super fast, very cleanly and leave a much smoother finish and work well on Micarta as well! Super easy and fast to shape a handle out with them!

I do a lot of Frame tang handles. I find a full tang much faster for me and less worry about going through into the tang slot, but the frame tang is an excellent choice for someone starting out since the handle will be easier to shape and keep flush without worrying about the harder tang standing proud of the scales and you can shape the entire handle before putting it onto the blade.