Best approach after cleaning in water

Lots of good info above. Yes, modern blades and their mechanisms are more corrosion resistant in general. But in a modern folder with all the crevices and such in say an Axis lock folder there are a LOT more places for gunk and water to hide than in the basic slipjoints of the past. Pocket carry will cause a pretty good accumulation of gunk and grit in a folder over time. If I want to clean something with many such nooks and crannies without a total disassembly it is a simple process, but it does require doing it right. Now I don't do this every day or every week with any of my stuff, but when a piece gets a real accumulation of junk to the point you can feel it affect it's operation and you want to clean it out, this is a good way to go about getting back to that fresh feel!

Basically, you need to get the old gunk, dirt, oil and skin out of all those spaces and leave it clean and protected. I will soak something like a folder, or even a field stripped 1911, in some hot water with a good bit of Dawn soap in it for a good while. This softens the gunk. Lately with the 1911s I will remove the grips and throw the rest in a bowl of kerosene overnight.

After the soaking to soften, you need to actually physically remove said gunk. Toothbrushes, Qtips, pipe cleaners, etc. Whatever it takes. I'll take those tools and some paper towels and give everything a good scrubbing. Next step in the removal phase is a good flush. The easy way is to take the freshly scrubbed parts and run a good bit of hot water from the kitchen sink tap through them. I do usually rinse with some 90% IPA (or the naptha mentioned above, if handy, is a good choice) right after the hot water flush to help get rid of the water. The parts are still warm to help with evaporation of any moisture and the alcohol almost guarantees all water is gone. After this I will sometimes use a hair dryer for a minute or two on complex parts with lots of nook and crannies or subassemblies inside.

Now relube appropriate to whatever you are working with, with my folders it's almost nothing, a tiny drop of oil here or there. Reassemble. Enjoy.
 
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I mentioned this in another thread, but the hands-down winning approach is dry vapor steam.
 
There are several methods of removing all the protective lubricants in this thread-and none telling you how to conveniently replace that protectant- except mine. I'm telling you how a pro does it.
You do it any way you like.
 
There are several methods of removing all the protective lubricants in this thread-and none telling you how to conveniently replace that protectant- except mine. I'm telling you how a pro does it.
You do it any way you like.
Bill good point. I was talking about the cleaning in the thread, but obviously to finish, you have to re-lube. In the past I always just reapplied a single drop of mineral oil to the pivot. But I get what you're saying, getting some kind of non-gunky protectant into the entire mechanism.

About a week ago, I ran across this stuff by Super Lube that is a food-safe (H1 compliant) dry, PTFE-based lube, which is safe for "incidental contact." Meaning, you don't want to eat the stuff or put it directly on your blade and then cut food, but if you spray it into the internals after washing and then carefully wipe off your blade, it should be fine. I spray shots of this stuff into the internals of my ZT 0561 folder, after cleaning the internals with BoreTech cleaner (which itself has corrosion inhibitors, so I didn't have to use water at all in that cleaning, hence no water to displace either). Spraying this stuff into my ZT internals worked great: it dries almost instantly to a film, it lubes the pivot mechanism nicely, and of course provides some kind of dry gunk-resistant and rust-protective coating.

What do you think of this food safe Super Lube dry lube, for this role? Description here:
http://www.super-lube.com/files/pdfs/super_lube_catalog.pdf

"Super Lube® Multi-Purpose Aerosol Super Lube® Aerosol with Syncolon® (PTFE) is a multi-purpose lubricant, consisting of Super Lube® Grease in a solvent carrier, that cleans and penetrates the components to be lubricated, then the solvent evaporates leaving behind a film of synthetic grease which provides long lasting lubricant protection. Super Lube® Aerosol with Syncolon® (PTFE) is USDA/NSF listed, rated H-1 for use in federally inspected meat and poultry plants. Mfg# Description Pack Size 31040 6 oz Aerosol 12 31110 11 oz Aerosol 12."

Ordered mine on Amazon, a little spendy at $12 per can, but it doesn't take much to coat the internals on a folder.
 
There are several methods of removing all the protective lubricants in this thread-and none telling you how to conveniently replace that protectant- except mine. I'm telling you how a pro does it.

Actually you said WD-40 was a good idea, which was mentioned in the first two posts. But we sure are lucky to have a bona-fide pro-feshinal such as yourself to OK it.

You do it any way you like.

Will do, thanks!
 
Maximus83-
It may work very well. I have no experience with it.
I'll keep using WD 40. All it leaves is mineral oil, which is food safe.

JAM-
Thank you for your insightful comment.
It is actually quite amusing, and shows that you are quite the witty neophyte.
 
Bill, have you ever had any issues with the WD40 attracting gunk/grit in the internals? Or is not a problem if you just do a very light/quick spray? I've used in the past and never noticed any problem if I applied it lightly.
 
WD 40 attracts no more grit/gunk than any other light oil.
I have done tests that show this.
 
There are several methods of removing all the protective lubricants in this thread-and none telling you how to conveniently replace that protectant- except mine. I'm telling you how a pro does it.
You do it any way you like.

use a good lube instead if you can. A drop on each side.

relubricate washers/bearings/detente and reassemble.

If it doesn't, I go through the same procedure with breakfree clp

But for washers, just get the grit out, get the lube in, and forgettaboutit.

Disassemble, Clean, Dry, Oil, & Reassemble

drop it in a jar of naphtha, give it a shake, take it out, leave it to dry, relube the pivot

Now relube appropriate to whatever you are working with

What am I missing
 
I must not be clear. When you remove all the protective lubricants inside the knife, they need to be replaced- not necessarily for lubrication, but for rust protection. If you don't, corrosion can start in nooks and crannies. Any carbon steel parts-like torsion springs will quickly rust.
When flushing with water, moisture can remain in inaccessible spots. Using a penetrant/lubricant like WD 40 will drive out any moisture, and leave a light coat of oil in these spots.
Applying lubricant to the pivot does not address these issues.
 
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I must not be clear. When you remove all the protective lubricants inside the knife, they need to be replaced- not necessarily for lubrication, but for rust protection. If you don't, corrosion can start in nooks and crannies. Any carbon steel parts-like torsion springs will quickly rust.
When flushing with water, moisture can remain in inaccessible spots. Using a penetrant/lubricant like WD 40 will drive out any moisture, and leave a light coat of oil in these spots.
Applying lubricant to the pivot does not address these issues.
I see. Thanks for the clarification Bill
 
Here's a thread
http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/has-anyone-done-a-any-lubrication-friction-testing.1510135/

Tested oil on the detent track. Note that solvent removed the old stuff. In testing very minimum oil is needed or even wanted. You will want to put a good oil to prevent corrosion in the pivot area tho.
He does list the oil he tested. Mineral oil was one of them. A link in that thread also has a test of 46 other corrosion inhibitors and a test of lubrication of each one. You could try one of those for the pivot.

I like to use Teflon grease for some knives. Especially my crk. And quick release for others. Also quick release on my detents. His tests show its a top performer.

Nano is not particularly my favorite cause it's expensive, doesn't last long and has snake oil marketing all over there website and uses snake oil marketing to sell to folks at shows and what not. They also couldn't tell you anything specific about the oil when asked.

Grant cunningham also linked in that thread suggests against Wd40 and I tend to agree. But listen to the knife maker above that is ademnt about using it. Surely it works Decent enough. Anyways grant also has other food safe suggestions in his lubrication 101 article.

In any case
1. Clean with solvent.
2. Apply lube to all metal bits to protect from corrosion
3 Apply very little and or wipe off good after applying (plenty will be on it still)
4. Apply to detent track. (I take a q tip, put a drop or two on the tip and wipe on the detent track).

However you like to do it will probably work just fine. Whatever you use may work just fine. These suggestions may maximize your results but that's debatable. It's based off of some testing, but none of us a scientific 100%
 
That BoreTech cleaner is nothing more than Monoethanolamine, propylene glycol (25% x 10%), and water (65%).
Both the monoethanolamine, and the propylene glycol can be bought on Amazon, and other sites.

I bring it up because for less than 1/8 the price you can mix it your self, and use it in an ultrasound machine.
Nothing will clean better (IMHO).

I've been cleaning gun parts/trigger assemblies/bolts with this method for decades.

I'm new to knife collecting but I'm gathering up a fair amount of vintage knives, and this will be my method for cleaning some of these old gems.

Compressed air is also a great tool to use. Even if it's just a duster can for keyboards or a spare tire adapted to a hose with an air blower nozzle. I used an old tire for airbrushing when I was into RC planes/boats.

https://www.amazon.com/Consolidated...d=1503527414&sr=8-1&keywords=monoethanolamine


https://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Gl...ns&keywords=propylene+glycol+food+grade&psc=1
 
Mo2 Mo2 & Bill DeShivs Bill DeShivs I agree with advising against WD40 but I do see where it works well as a lube/protection to flood the knife with and force out water but is not food safe I would be curious and interested in a food safe option that would work similarly to WD40. I have used compressed air tank or an air compressor to force out all water in my drying process you have any thoughts to share on that option to dry the knife prior to applying oil/lube to all metal parts.
 
The ONLY draw back to a compressor is the air is heated as it is compressed. That hot(er) air will attract moisture as it cools. On humid days you can spray compressed air on your hand, and see the water.

I prefer using a storage tank of any sort for these types of situations.

I looked up the MSDS for WD-40. It's not as benign as some think.
It's actually a mixture of hydrogenated left over oils from the fracturing process. There are 4 CAS #'s for oils, two propellants, and less than 10% Non hazardous ingredients.

CAS #'s for the oils
64742-58-1
64742-53-6
64742-56-9
64742-65-0
Propane
Butane
Surfactant Proprietary <2
Non Hazardous materials <10
 
Mo2 Mo2 & Bill DeShivs Bill DeShivs I agree with advising against WD40 but I do see where it works well as a lube/protection to flood the knife with and force out water but is not food safe I would be curious and interested in a food safe option that would work similarly to WD40. I have used compressed air tank or an air compressor to force out all water in my drying process you have any thoughts to share on that option to dry the knife prior to applying oil/lube to all metal parts.
Ultimately Wd40 is mineral oil. When the spirits evaporate it leaves a green funky layer of mineral oil down. It works. I wouldn't eat it, but I don't think you would get sick from it (don't try it tho) and the amount your going to use is not even going to matter cause it will be so little.... But...

Use mineral oil then if you want food grade. And as I mentioned Bill Cunningham in the article called lubrication 101 lists an oil and grease that are both food safe as well. The link is listed somewhere in the link above.
 
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