Best belt sander for knife sharpening

A word of caution about using a dust collector/shop-vac with a metal working sander-grinder for steel. Wood dust is very flammable (possibly explosive even) and one spark could cause a lot of damage. A good fire extinguisher and working smoke detector are a must. Rather than using the same collector for wood and steel working, a separate system with some water in the collection tank is a safer solution.
 
Aardvark said:
My 1x42 is a Kalamazoo Industries 1SM. I just did a quick check and found it for about $190 in a couple of places.
Click to expand...


Santa brought me one of those for Christmas. :) Once I get it mounted and running, I will report on how it does. I have lots of khuks to sharpen and some Carbon V blade blanks needing handles. Looks good to me for the money. Anyone have a good source for 1x42" belts????

Jeff
 
I bought my last batch of belts from discountabrasives. They're an ebay seller. Good prices. Good service.
 
devo55 said:
Kalamazoo
Santa brought me one of those for Christmas.:) Once I get it mounted and running, I will report on how it does.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Jeff I don't know about these days but the old Kalamazoo tools were excellent!!!!:thumbup: :D :cool:
It would be a real service for all here to know how the present day Kalamazoo tools work and if they have the strength and sturdyness they once had.
 
Bri in Chi said:
A word of caution about using a dust collector/shop-vac with a metal working sander-grinder for steel. Wood dust is very flammable (possibly explosive even) and one spark could cause a lot of damage. A good fire extinguisher and working smoke detector are a must. Rather than using the same collector for wood and steel working, a separate system with some water in the collection tank is a safer solution.
Click to expand...

Also worth noting that grinding aluminum and steel can cause explosions. I believe those are the ingredients in thermite.

http://www.finishing.com/64/35.shtml

"Now for an answer to a question that you did not ask. Always keep the buffing of steel parts separate from the buffing of aluminum parts. The mixing of steel powder and aluminum powder all throught he exhaust system is setting you up for a flash fire that can travel pretty quickly. When the iron oxidizes, the resulting Iron Oxide plus the aluminum powder will form "Thermite," which burns at an incredibly hot temperature. All it takes is one spark to set it all off. And sparks abound during the buffing of steel, as you know. Most buffing equipment designers will never plan to use the same buffing jack for both aluminum and steel. "
 
Aardvark said:
My 1x42 is a Kalamazoo Industries 1SM. I just did a quick check and found it for about $190 in a couple of places.
Click to expand...

I just bought one of these Kalamazoos as well for my first belt sander, slightly used from a knifemaker on the forum for $120. He threw in some belts too. Seems like a very good unit. I am going to get the horizontal grinding attachments for it, so Aardvark and I should have the same setup.

WRT the Sears 4", Yvsa is right, but I bought a belt lifter for it sold online, that gets the belt up off the platen, and it does a great job, especially for knives that don't have a heavy recurve. I also bought a heavy leather belt for it and some chromium oxide powder from hand american.

Picked up 4X36 belts up to 600 grit from Jantz supply, and now the thing works very well. I can use it for regular wood working, and then add the lifter and sharpen with it. I polished up an axe blade with it the other day and it did a beautiful job.


Norm
 
I just ordered the Delta SA-180 from Amazon for $89 and a bunch of belts and a leather strop from Lee Valley.
 
I just saw an article about sanding in a woodworking mag that said that sanding belts don't last more than one year. It went on to say that you shouldn't use them after that, because the glue that holds them together won't hold.

I just bought some belts from Lee Valley (1X30") and wondered if they are doomed to die within the year - if I don't use them up first.
 
Arty I have some brand new 2"X72" belts that are a helluva lot older than that and I haven't had any problems with them at all.
Doesn't mean I won't sometime but I doubt I will.
Also there's no telling how long they set on the shelf before I bought them.;)
 
arty said:
I just saw an article about sanding in a woodworking mag that said that sanding belts don't last more than one year. It went on to say that you shouldn't use them after that, because the glue that holds them together won't hold.

I just bought some belts from Lee Valley (1X30") and wondered if they are doomed to die within the year - if I don't use them up first.
Click to expand...

Like Yvsa, I haven't found that to be the case. If grinding metal that may reach 200-300 degrees doesn't loosen the glue, I don't think that sitting for a year will hurt them. All my belts are 2-3 years old.
Steve
 
Thanks for the advice.
I got a few belts ranging from 220-1200 grit, as well as a leather belt.
I may have wasted money on the 1200 grit belts....
Backing ranges from cloth to mylar.
Have any folks out there had bad experiences with a particular type of belt?
Are there any really junky belts out there that I should avoid?
 
I'm using some belts that I've had for over 10 years. The seam do need to be re-glued, as the original adhesive has dried out, but that is not difficult. I use Barge cement, which seems to hold. My belt sanders all run pretty slow, so when a belt lets go, it doesn't go flying across the shop. Always test the joint when installing a belt, let it run a few seconds when first installed, and you'll be fine.
Day-um if I'm gonna toss a perfectly good belt!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top