Best belts for sharpening?

T

Tin.Man

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Sep 5, 2010
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say I’m just restoring edges, ideally starting at 220 going to 600-800 then stropping.

I’ve used gator belts and I love them for satin finishes of my grinds but feel like there is something better for edges.

Appreciate the help
 
I am using cheap 600 grit AO from pops. Then use a wood strip loaded with diamond paste. Maybe leather
 
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I use an A16 or A30 trizact belt, then strop. If its a larger, beefier edge, I'll start it with 300-600 AO, then trizact, then strop. I find the trizacts helpful because they are slower so I can get a more even edge whereas a lower grit makes it easier to mess something up. (As my skill increase I will probably use lower AO grits because they are much cheaper than trizact.)
 
cut a new edge i with used wet 120 but then clean up with wet 400AO and then 800 AO strop with used 9 micron film belt (agin all run wet) if not cutting in a first edg i skip the 120
 
I use a Norax belt in 240 grit.

The Norax belts are thick and flat, almost like sharpening on a stone.

I use the platen with the Norax to set the edge and then to the edge pro to perfect it
 
Norax belt for me as well. Then I use a used belt flipped inside out on the grinder and I strop it with green compound to remove the burr. I also use a leather strop as well but takes longer.
 
I use a fresh Hermes 220 AO to establish the edge and then move up to my desired grit. If going for a polished edge I like the trizact belts starting with an A30.
 
Whichever belt you choose, keep in mind, the belt surface itself is not running flat on your chosen belt machine. Increasing the tension on the belt helps but will not eliminate this issue.
I go from belt machine to a horizontal disc grinder where the surface is flat. I finish with an ERU disc, which sadly, are no longer available.
 
Fred.Rowe said:
Whichever belt you choose, keep in mind, the belt surface itself is not running flat on your chosen belt machine. Increasing the tension on the belt helps but will not eliminate this issue.
I go from belt machine to a horizontal disc grinder where the surface is flat. I finish with an ERU disc, which sadly, are no longer available.
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I have wondered about this. Would sharpening on a wheel fix this?
 
I use 2 x 72 belts to create the edge but then follow that with a totally flat surface such as a diamond plate or a horizontal disk.

Edges can be worked on the wheel, if it's large enough, but what you end up with is a slightly hollowed edge which is hard to maintain and is a little weaker because of the geometry.

Regards, Fred
 
I use a yellow 220 klingspor jflex, and follow up with the buffer. Pops hairs but has just enough tooth to still skin and cut meat well. And it takes about 30 seconds.
 
The barefoot boy said:
I have wondered about this. Would sharpening on a wheel fix this?
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I use Hermès super flex 120 grit A/O J weight belts to establish or rework an edge and a 600 Hermès 356 Orange back. Or 3M 30 Micron, all From Trugrit, for Japanese Knives then buff with Green Chrome. —————————————I prefer the slight amount of flex using a belt, giving a slightly Convex edge which is stronger that a V edge, lasts a bit longer and you can cut circles with them. I make & sharpen 95% Culinary Knives and prefer the Convexed edge.——Some do well with sharpening on a wheel, I don’t care for it.
 
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