Best BUDGET Sharpening System? Suggestions please.

I've been meaning to get a good bench stone for a while now, something I can use at home when getting the guys' knives ready for shipping. Been rocking the worksharp field sharpener and sharpmaker and they are just too small and slow, and I want to bump up my efficiency.

Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer how do you like these Baryonx stones on your M4 and Cruwear blades?
 
David Mary said:
I've been meaning to get a good bench stone for a while now, something I can use at home when getting the guys' knives ready for shipping. Been rocking the worksharp field sharpener and sharpmaker and they are just too small and slow, and I want to bump up my efficiency.

Crag the Brewer Crag the Brewer how do you like these Baryonx stones on your M4 and Cruwear blades?
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M2 is reasonable. Work, but doable.
Cruwear is very easy to sharpen, Idk why?
Your magnacut should be similar to Cruwear, from what I hear


The only difficult knife I had to sharpen was k390 steel, that was my worst. That forced me to buy a dedicated diamond plate.

I have a couple 10v I'm going to do this summer, people say it's ok, we shall see?


*the white one is a mix of sharpening materials, I believe?
So I think it's able to do the Hard stuff
 
Well it should be cake then, since I put my primary geometry on with the grinder anyway. I probably don't even need the coarse stone, but it was cheap, so it can't hurt to have it, at least for my personal knives.
 
David Mary said:
Well it should be cake then, since I put my primary geometry on with the grinder anyway. I probably don't even need the coarse stone, but it was cheap, so it can't hurt to have it, at least for my personal knives.
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Even though the black one is like sharpening on a Brick, it surprisingly gets knife edges really sharp. Toothy with micro serrations, but sharp.

I bought it to initially help me with tip work when I was starting out.

I used to do them by hand at first, so I wouldn't burn them up on the grinder
 
David Mary said:
I slack belt sharpen on the grinder with short passes and don't burn it.
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I start them, but I like the stone in case I need to gently correct something. It gives me time to think about stuff, And not screw up something Fast.
 
JTR357 said:
I use a work sharp field sharpener 90% of the time. It's only $30 & has a very easy learning curve. It uses diamond stones, a ceramic stone & a leather strop. I can use it to bring back an edge, even after dulling a "super-steel".
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Does this have a guide to keep the angle, or strictly freehand?
 
Crag the Brewer said:
M2 is reasonable. Work, but doable.
Cruwear is very easy to sharpen, Idk why?
Your magnacut should be similar to Cruwear, from what I hear


The only difficult knife I had to sharpen was k390 steel, that was my worst. That forced me to buy a dedicated diamond plate.

I have a couple 10v I'm going to do this summer, people say it's ok, we shall see?


*the white one is a mix of sharpening materials, I believe?
So I think it's able to do the Hard stuff
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The Arctic Fox is synthetic sapphire grit (blue aluminum oxide) -- you're likely thinking of the American Mutt stone, which is less aggressive than the Manticore, but is still what I'd call extra coarse. Those are usually tan-ish but can range in color since they're made from recycled grit from truing up grinding points, so they're a mix of different grain sizes of aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, and trace amounts of diamond. Cuts very fast but leaves a finer finish than you'd expect for the cut rate. I get my best cardboard-slicing edges off the Mutt, but use the Manticore when I have to hog the shoulder off a too-thick edge or erase a deep nick.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
The Arctic Fox is synthetic sapphire grit (blue aluminum oxide) -- you're likely thinking of the American Mutt stone, which is less aggressive than the Manticore, but is still what I'd call extra coarse. Those are usually tan-ish but can range in color since they're made from recycled grit from truing up grinding points, so they're a mix of different grain sizes of aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, and trace amounts of diamond. Cuts very fast but leaves a finer finish than you'd expect for the cut rate. I get my best cardboard-slicing edges off the Mutt, but use the Manticore when I have to hog the shoulder off a too-thick edge or erase a deep nick.
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I have 3 of your stones.
2 are whitefish

I think it's the Artic Fox, that I like? I use it for silky clean up just before steeling, and after my diamond plate.


The other one has a hint of tan to it, and I never could get it to work for me. Idk if it's too hard, or glazed over, I'm not sure? It doesn't seem to do anything...so I don't use it.

But I love the 2 others.

-still I'm looking for More
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I have 3 of your stones.
2 are whitefish

I think it's the Artic Fox, that I like? I use it for silky clean up just before steeling, and after my diamond plate.


The other one has a hint of tan to it, and I never could get it to work for me. Idk if it's too hard, or glazed over, I'm not sure? It doesn't seem to do anything...so I don't use it.

But I love the 2 others.

-still I'm looking for More
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The tan one is an American Mutt, and probably one of the older ones. The current ones are still meant for high pressure but are a bit softer than they used to be. Part of the issue with the mixed grit is that conventional binders don't play nice with a mix of grit type, and it necessitates what is by default a very hard bond. If you've glazed the stone, you'll need to run a coarse diamond plate or dressing tool over it or use the loose grit method of conditioning the surface. "Flattening stones" don't really work on them due to the behavior characteristics of the mixed grit. If using the stone with light pressure once reconditioned, use it with oil to reduce wear from friction. If using water, just make sure to use high pressure. It's a stone you should be bearing down on from your elbows/shoulders with.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
The tan one is an American Mutt, and probably one of the older ones. The current ones are still meant for high pressure but are a bit softer than they used to be. Part of the issue with the mixed grit is that conventional binders don't play nice with a mix of grit type, and it necessitates what is by default a very hard bond. If you've glazed the stone, you'll need to run a coarse diamond plate or dressing tool over it or use the loose grit method of conditioning the surface. "Flattening stones" don't really work on them due to the behavior characteristics of the mixed grit. If using the stone with light pressure once reconditioned, use it with oil to reduce wear from friction. If using water, just make sure to use high pressure. It's a stone you should be bearing down on from your elbows/shoulders with.
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Thanks for the info.....
When Should I be using it, in my sharpening process? (Once it's ready)
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Thanks for the info.....
When Should I be using it, in my sharpening process? (Once it's ready)
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It's best used for ironing out edge damage like dings, nicks, or rolls, but finishing on it with lighter passes produces a WONDERFUL cardboard-slicing edge. Anything with a large contact surface area is liable to glaze it since it'll reduce the pressure below the threshold at which grit will shed. I often use the American Mutt when sharpening other folks' abused kitchen knives as they're often dull enough that the high pressure is already a step for accelerating the sharpening process. For my own tools I use it most on my box cutter blades.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
It's best used for ironing out edge damage like dings, nicks, or rolls, but finishing on it with lighter passes produces a WONDERFUL cardboard-slicing edge. Anything with a large contact surface area is liable to glaze it since it'll reduce the pressure below the threshold at which grit will shed. I often use the American Mutt when sharpening other folks' abused kitchen knives as they're often dull enough that the high pressure is already a step for accelerating the sharpening process. For my own tools I use it most on my box cutter blades.
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I'll poke around, and see if I can get it to work.
Like I said, I Really like the Arctic Fox
 
I have some cheap $50 12" diameter China-made diamond lapidary discs I like to use for lapping bench stones on, but if you have one of those ultra-coarse T-shaped grinding wheel dressing tools, just grinding one of those all over the Mutt's surface to rough it back up will get it back in action nice and easy. Or, like I said, the loose grit on a flat surface method does it nice and quick, too.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I have some cheap $50 12" diameter China-made diamond lapidary discs I like to use for lapping bench stones on, but if you have one of those ultra-coarse T-shaped grinding wheel dressing tools, just grinding one of those all over the Mutt's surface to rough it back up will get it back in action nice and easy. Or, like I said, the loose grit on a flat surface method does it nice and quick, too.
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When will the mutt bench stones be back in stock?
 
Fastleo151 said:
When will the mutt bench stones be back in stock?
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Most likely sometime in the upcoming month if things go to plan. We're dealing with some very large wholesale orders at the moment that are occupying our time but they'll be one of the first stones we restock coming up. We do have a tab on the item page you should be able to click to enter your email to get an automatic notification when they're restocked.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Most likely sometime in the upcoming month if things go to plan. We're dealing with some very large wholesale orders at the moment that are occupying our time but they'll be one of the first stones we restock coming up. We do have a tab on the item page you should be able to click to enter your email to get an automatic notification when they're restocked.
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Awesome, I’ve been checking about one a week. I want to try a few different stones you produce but I’d like to make 1 big order to save on shipping.
 
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