best sharpener for ESEE knives

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Capt R

Joined
Jul 28, 2010
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I was reading another post and it got me thinking. I have purchased a couple of ESEE knives (izula and 4) and I wanted to know what is the best way to sharpen these knives to get the accurate angle, etc. I am new aat this so the type equipment and process advice is welcomed.
 
Bump. Thanks for posting this question, I've been wondering about this too. DMT or Lansky? Can't decide.
 
I roll free-hand as that is my preferred, and I find that I get good angles and feedback from the 1095 (little more trouble with harder steels like my BM grip) granted this has taken more than a few years of practice, and I still do screw up. normally use ceramics, but I have some diamonds if I have to move a lot of metal.
That said, I used to use a Lansky, and if you are methodical about it, you can get some very fine edges, just remember to do everything the same every time, or you will be re-profiling your edge every time.
 
At home I usually use benchstones( Norton waterstones 220/1000grit) for major work,and the Spyderco sharpmaker for routine maintenance. It's a great system for maintaining your edges. I recently purchased the Fallkniven DC-4 for field touch ups. Best small stone there is, Imo.Diamond one side,fine ceramic the other. Learning how to do freehand on benchstones frees you up from getting relied on gadgets though. If you search through the Sharpening and maintenance forum, there are a lot of great tips there too as well.
 
I run Lansky, works real well, and a Norton 10" Cryst/India with a DMT guide, and the DMT folder in my pack. I like the Lansky/strop method for that good edge at home, and the DMT folder in my pack for field touchup. The Norton stone is just for fun. Moose
 
Spyderco sharpmaker is easy to use and inexpensive. i have the ultrafine stones for it and they keep an extremely sharp edge on all my knives.
 
if you want something cheap, a piece of glass and some 3m brand wetordry sandpaper in grits from 280-400 and that will do you fine for a working edge. if you want something powered, a set of paper wheels will get the job done in a few minutes no matter what the blade or steel. i sharpen a lot of knives on them. here is a thread on the wheels http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787
 
Pretty much what other guys said is true.
My best suggestion is to get a system if you're not experienced or if you don't trust yourself, and practice with sth cheap on sandpaper or stones. When you get comfortable with 'em it can save you being dependent on gadgets
 
Anyone have experience with the Edge Pro? I was thinking of getting one since I tried it and it seemed to work pretty well. downsides?
 
Capt R said:
I was reading another post and it got me thinking. I have purchased a couple of ESEE knives (izula and 4) and I wanted to know what is the best way to sharpen these knives to get the accurate angle, etc. I am new aat this so the type equipment and process advice is welcomed.
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If youre new to sharpening, like others have mentioned, you'll be well served by the Spyderco Sharpmaker. With the 40 degree setting, you'll easily maintain a nice very sharp edge on your ESEE knives. I love their 1095 carbon steel !
 
I don't think I could come even close as to how many knifes I have sharpened over the years? Mine and 100s of others(small side biz) But I've also tryed just about every gaget out there, and with some pratice (ya should know anyway just to be able to use anywhere) is a stone. As mentioned I have used the gagets, but I get my Best edges from a Norton India combination stone, then 1 or 2 passes with my old hone steel. I've done it so long, I can get a shaver most everytime. The steel has to be junk not to get a good edge. I have alot of bald spots on my arms from showing others how sharp I just got their/my blade. Plus a stone can go with ya anywhere, no fuss. enjoy edgy :thumbup:
 
good to know the spyderco sharpmaker works well with ESEE knives. my sharpmaker should be arriving tomorrow. looking forward to trying it out.
 
The census is spyderco sharpmaker and stones. I would really like to learn with stones. I probably need and old knife to practice. Do you agree? I bought a lansky system several years ago but never used it. It was misplaced and recently found. Not many references to lansky. Any particular reason?
 
vicbastige said:
Anyone have experience with the Edge Pro? I was thinking of getting one since I tried it and it seemed to work pretty well. downsides?
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Recently got one and it's great! Makes sharpening pretty dummy proof, which is good for me. The cost is up there but if I had bought this one first, I would have it paid for it twice over with other systems I've tried.

Also have the Sharpmaker and it works very well to maintain an edge.

I used the EP on all of my abused, worn kitchen knives to bring them back to life and use the SM to maintain a razor sharp edge.
 
I bought the Smiths' 3 piece kit (hard stone soft stone and honing oil) about five years ago now and it is an extremely practical and cost effective way to sharpen high carbon blades like these. Also make for easy field maintenance. Supplement it with some high grit wet and dry sandpaper and you're golden.
 
How bout the dmt aligner system? Recently purchased with my esee-6 and have had good success on very dull kitchen knives so far - sharpmaker or lansky croc sticks next on list for quick touch ups. Btw esee-6 rocks! Haven't had chance to post my thoughts yet but will soon!
 
I used to use a sharpmaker to maintain my blades, and had good results. Over time, I've shifted to a combo of mousepad/sandpaper and a strop, and found my results to be even better
 
peterj said:
Recently got one and it's great! Makes sharpening pretty dummy proof, which is good for me. The cost is up there but if I had bought this one first, I would have it paid for it twice over with other systems I've tried.

Also have the Sharpmaker and it works very well to maintain an edge.

I used the EP on all of my abused, worn kitchen knives to bring them back to life and use the SM to maintain a razor sharp edge.
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+1 to this combo. I only take the EP out when I want to reprofile something. 90% of the time I use just the SM and the UF rods. Finish everything off with a CrO loaded strop. :thumbup:

As with any system, there is a learning curve for the EP and the SM.
 
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