best way to remove burrs?

A burr will not ruin the stone, it will make it finer then stropping will remove it. The burr is the result of the two sides of the steel meeting. Once they meet the steel cannot become any thinner and it pushes to one side thus the burr. When you use many different grits for sharpenig the need for de-burring between stones is nothing more than a waste of time, the next stone is just going to make a new one. De-burring is good before stropping, it makes it faster and reduces the chance of damaging a leather strop, a burr can scratch the surface of the leather.
 
Knifenut,

I agree with what you say except this:

knifenut1013 said:
When you use many different grits for sharpenig the need for de-burring between stones is nothing more than a waste of time, the next stone is just going to make a new one.
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For me deburring with a low grit doesn't give the best results. It seems to me that it tends to blunt the edge. Of course it's fixed by the next step on a highter grit but that's where time is wasted. That's why i prefer to deburr with a very fine ceramic stone. The only explanation i have is that deburring with a low grit tears off the burr when it should only be worn. I have noticed that it took me less time to sharpen this way and i'm now considering that the raise isn't the only critical factor, the removal is an other one.

dantzk.
 
It only seems like you are de-burring but you are just making a smaller burr. Your ceramic is most likely 2000 grit or close, my finishing stone is 8000 grit and it will still leave a burr just very hard to notice. I still consider 2000 to be rather coarse when we are talking about removing a burr, I remove the burr with 50,000 grit diamond paste. Like I said the burr is a part of what happens when you sharpen and when you move to the next lower grit you just make it smaller. There is no magic to sharpening its all mathematics.
 
knifenut1013 said:
It only seems like you are de-burring but you are just making a smaller burr. Your ceramic is most likely 2000 grit or close, my finishing stone is 8000 grit and it will still leave a burr just very hard to notice. I still consider 2000 to be rather coarse when we are talking about removing a burr, I remove the burr with 50,000 grit diamond paste. Like I said the burr is a part of what happens when you sharpen and when you move to the next lower grit you just make it smaller. There is no magic to sharpening its all mathematics.
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Knifenut,

I was yet convinced there is no magic to sharpening and that the size of the burr is function of the grit. Highter the grit, smaller the burr and you are right to say that a 2000 grit is still a coarse grit. What i said is that remove a burr beetween two low grit stones( say beetween 300 and 600) with a (say 2000) grit takes you less time than remove the burr made by the 300 grit with the 600 grit and then raise a new burr with the same 600 grit.

dantzk.
 
At 600 grit I wouldn't worrry about the burr, pay more attention to the scratch pattern on the steel. The burr starts at your coarse stone and you shouldn't worry about it again until your ready to finish the edge. Still use the burr as kind of a guide to make sure you are keeping a good angle but to worry about the burr between stones is a waste. When you use your ceramic to deburr your next finer stone (not as fine as the ceramic) re-cuts the edge anyways, so whats the point. The first pass on your next stone will flip the burr to the other side and once you have reached a 600 grit edge finish you will have a 600 grit burr. This continues untill the steel cannot form a burr any more. 300 to 2000 to 600 dosen't do you any good you still end up with a 600 grit edge.
 
Knifenut,

All that makes sense. I will take your advice. Thanks for your explanations and patience.

dantzk.
 
dantzk8 said:
Knifenut,

All that makes sense. I will take your advice. Thanks for your explanations and patience.

dantzk.
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No prob, do your research though but take what you read with a grain of salt, there's a lot of bad info out their.
 
nozh2002 said:
I do not remove the burr intentionaly - it just got away itself. Each new grit makes it smaller and smaller and finally polishing takes it away when you do side by side final polishing.

You may see it here (it is 14 clips - all stages covered):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TscN9h-1xQ

Thanks, Vassili.
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Seriously. Check out these videos. There are 14, but they are not very long. He doesn't worry about removing the burr inbetween changing grits, but by the time he is done, he can whittle hair. You have visual proof that this is a valid method.
 
yes, but it seems as though he doesn't use any higher grit than the DMT fine stone i think, and then strops. i really enjoyed this video and am quite sure i will go back to it a few more times in the future for reference. i think there should be more vids like these, not just sharpening, but the detail that goes into doing it right. thanks again.
 
d.weglarz13 said:
yes, but it seems as though he doesn't use any higher grit than the DMT fine stone i think, and then strops. i really enjoyed this video and am quite sure i will go back to it a few more times in the future for reference. i think there should be more vids like these, not just sharpening, but the detail that goes into doing it right. thanks again.
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I use Extra Extra Coarse, Coarse and Extra Fine, then Green Rouge. It is enough to whittle hair. No other grit needed. It will be just extra work as removing burr between grits.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. And if you read comments to the videos you may find that details.
 
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