BK7 durability concern

G

gutsy

Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Messages
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hello all, i bought a bk7 about a year ago and i have chopped limbs and small trees and various other stuff with it. but i always wonder about its long term duribility mainly bacause of the thin edge and tip . just how strong is this knife? and how does the steel hold up as compared to other steels.anybody around here ever have one break? any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
The puny BK7? I'm surprised it hasn't broken already.:rolleyes:

Once you guys have seen a lot more knives you might be able to put the BK7 in perspective. See the post here "Crewman as tool" to start.
 
the ontario rat 7 has caught my eye but ive never got to even hold one . if anyone has any sugestions about a good hard use knife in a good price range let me know. any opinions or advice would be helpful.
 
AS for Becker, I wqould say the Campanion and the Brute both apply. they are full 1/4 inch thick and I doubt you will damage one easily.
 
gutsy said:
the ontario rat 7 has caught my eye but ive never got to even hold one . if anyone has any sugestions about a good hard use knife in a good price range let me know. any opinions or advice would be helpful.
Click to expand...
Ranger Knives RD series. The RD7 is bigger than the BK7 and gets more of my trust than my BK7. Check out SageCreekOutfitters.com they have them in stock there.
 
i really appreciate all of the advice and have decided as long as the tip behaves im gonna keep it and probably add a ranger or a brute or both . good prices on both of them
 
Actually the RD7 is a complete waste of money. The fit and finish are great and from what I understand the heat treat is very well done, but they have no cutting ability to speak of. The edge on my flat ground RD7 was so thick and dull it might as well have been flat. It cannot cut and barely chops. A crowbar will smash through wood about as fast as the RD7 chops.

You're unlikely to ever break a BK7 unless you plan to do a lot of batonning and heavy prying. If thats what you're anticipating spend the extra money and get a Swamp Rat Ratweiler.
 
i ve been looking at that particuler knife very seriously as of late. perhaps this coincident is a sign from the knife gods to buy it. i would like to see more feed back from people that use themfirst though. how long does it take to get one anyway? i really apreciate the info on ranger, it makes sense after reading your reply and looking at the very close -up photos on their web site
 
Read my mini-review at the link below of the BK-7 chopping alder branches, along with a Swamp Rat Camp Tramp, a Busse Basic 7, and a Gerber billhook brush knife. The Becker BK-7 that I used is the one pictured at the bottom. I ground a choil finger groove into it a few years ago. I have had zero problems or worries about the durability of the knife while using it, even for chopping. FWIW, I don't pry with my Beckers. For that I use prybars.

http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=001465#000006

BK7%20w%20choil.jpg
 
I also own a BK9. It's a nice slicer for such a big knife and it is even thicker than the BK7 but it does seem somewhat more delicate than the Ratweiler or RD7. I own a couple of Ratweilers and they are unstoppable. I use my Ratweiler more than any other "big" blade.

You're probably not gonna break a BK7 unless you do something pretty severe(ala Cliff Stamp.) They are a good knife in a big form with great bang for the buck. Use it, abuse it, and buy another if it fails. At that price (HOW do they do that??) you can buy another with few regrets.

The RD7 is a good sized hunk o'metal. I can't imagine breaking it and would trust my life/survival to one. If you have a problem with one, send it back to Justin and he will quickly make it "right." Solid as a rock... both the knives and service.

The Ratweiler is great. (I bought two!) The ONLY downside is that they are twice as expensive as the other two that are mentioned and the wait time for a new one could be a couple of months or more. You'll have to learn the skill known as patience during a wait in Busse / Swamp Rat time.


Wombslider:

I'm surprised you had a problem with a RD7. I have a flat ground RD9 that I keep sharp thru leather stropping. I nearly sliced the end of my finger off when wiping the jeweler's rouge off of the edge with a thick towel. It took out part of this fallen tree like it was butter... Storm Damage

Caveat: I may have slightly reprofiled my RD9 during early sharpening. I honestly don't recall.

Regarding the RD7, you should send it back to Justin and ask him to reprofile the edge if you're not comfortable doing it yourself. I'm guessing would only have to pay shipping. Email Link: justingingrich@hotmail.com
 
can anyone recomend any handle , blade or sheath modifications to the BK7 to make it a better working/survival tool? by the way, thanks for all the feedback cocerning the BK7 and all the other knives. i have learned so much from you guys.
 
Sure... here's one.

The most typical complaint of the BK series is the handle. Either love it or hate it. I happen to like it but it was a little bit slick when wet with sweat.

Take an inner tube from a roadbike (acoustic bike, that is) say a 650 to 700 X 23-25. You'll pay $3-4 for an inner tube. Now, slice that puppy into a length that fits the inner part of the handle between the pommel and guard. In order to get it on use it like a... prophalactic. You know, roll it into a ring, slip it over the pommel and then roll it onto the handle. It GREATLY increases the grippiness of the grip.

In addition, if you really needed it, "ranger bands" that are sold commercially are really not much more than bike inner tubes sliced into 1/2" to 1" bands. In the right situation, remove your new rubber grip and slice it into useful, very strong bands. That's what you can also do with the balance of your sliced up inner tube... ranger bands. I used them to "seal" the altoids tin that serves as a survival kit compartment in my sheath.

For other sheath kit options, do a search in the Training:Wilderness Survival Forum here on BF. Also, try http://www.survival.com/allen242mini.htm. Spec Ops also makes really nice cordura sheaths that will fit the BK7.

Good luck & have fun!

(BTW - Where are you in Tennessee? I moved from Knoxville to Saint Louis five years ago.)
 
im from cleveland , just north of chattanooga as a matter o fact . i guess im a "paddle man" myself , i work as a raftguide on the ocoee for the past almost 5 years .lots of screaming people during that time . i appreciate the info on the bike tubes and sheath options , ive looked at the spec-ops and never could tell if it would fit without trying it on they looked kinda narrow.as far as putting useful things in the pouch. goes as follows trioxane fuel bars ,ceramic sharp maker, some para-cord and what ever else will fit. im usually never without my maxpedition thermite versi-pack thats got a ton of stuff in it too.i think im gonna go out to greasy creek with my bk7 and do some manly stuff in the woods some time soon like[climbing,rappelling,crawling ,scrambling ,getting cold and wet and crying for mama cause you think your gonna die ] you otta come out and play if youre ever in town!
 
Hey, gutsy! I lived in Knoxville/Maryville for 15 years and starting paddling kayaks around 1990. I more or less stopped when I moved to Saint Louis in 2001... still have a Big EZ & an old-school Pirouette. I had to sell my SuperEgo because I kept getting spanked; I wasn't in the boat enough to stay "good." Paddling log for 2000? 63 Days on the river while working full-time. The last few years in St. Louis? 2-3 times a year. Oh well.

Have fun on the Ocoee while you can... kids and eventual moves sorta curtail the lifestyle!!
 
ive got a ten week old little boy and im probably getting married soon. youre right, my dancing days are coming to a close iguess . i still have the river and all the mountains surrounding it that aint too far away though. as for moving who knows, maybe one day. thanks for all the advice and keep in touch . GET OUT AND PADDLE PADDLING DUDE!!!!
 
If the innner Kydex sheath is too loose at the bottom get an old butterknife heat the blade a bit and gently slide it between the back of the two sheath's to loosen the glue that hold's it.You should be able to remove it, now get an old rag wet it and fold it over the Kydex use a hot iron on the lower edge to tighten it up.When that's done and your going to replace it put a spot of glue on the back/front [get something to wedge the outer sheath open, no glue smear's:eek: ] You now have space to slide in a SAWZALL Blade to cut metal/wood, Ferro Rod scraper, spear point and knife blade if you sharpen the back:D Oh yes throw a piece of string on the end of the blade for easy pullout and a wrap of DUCT tape on the front if you sharpen the back plus a wrap on the rear with a screw eye tucked in if you wish to fasten it to a piece of wood.
 
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