Hi, Zvi!
You lost me there...
Ankserson said:Any steel, no matter what it is won't perform above it's alloy content all things being equal and assuming a proper heat treatment and made by someone who knows what they are doing.
I dont' think he meant more vanadium or other carbides will automatically mean thin edges. No matter how you HT 1095 or CPM 10V neither will become stainless, nor 10xx will become more wear resistant than 10V or S110V, etc.. And sadly, no amount of HT will make HVC alloys perform well at very low angles either.
There are so many assumptions in there in heat-treating alone (as well as a weird strawman the likes of which I had never seen until Jim typed it and you paraphrased it) that the ceteris paribus qualifier need not be typed with a straight face.
Agreed, but that's kitchen use, which isn't cardboard, plastic, game skinning etc... I too prefer Aogami/Shirogami in the kitchen, because of the polished,thin edges, but when I have to cut cardboard I'd rather have 10V or S110V.
I remember your BM140HS versus Strider tests from years back where the Strider fixed blade kept its edge and the Nimravus; despite having nowhere near an appropriate heat-treatment; lost its edge, but finished the task. The M2 tool steel, thinner grind, and BT2 coating made it 'high-speed/low-drag.'
For cutting cardboard and plastic, a sharp thin grind on any kind of steel is my preference. Beyond that, I'd rather the blade not have inward curves and if it does (hard to have a hawkbill or recurve without them),
then I'd like an alloy of either extreme side of the Great Carbide Divide (resharpening AUS-8A or CPM-S110V after sodcutting is sooo much easier than VG-10). Ceteris caribous, I'd rather use a Spyderco brand Atlantic Salt SE folding pocketknife as it works well with fiberglass, drywall, sod, wood, all kinds of plastics, doesn't cost a gajillion dollars (though expensive enough - especially with mandatory STR Low-Rider clip to cute it up) and only takes one hate-filled hour with the diamond Sharpmaker hones to get back to working condition.
Also agreed. But I also think 1095 isn't the end of the road either. IMHO Shirogami and Aogami will do better. And I have my Watanabe Aogami 2 nesmuk experience, but can't really compare to 1095, since i have never had 1095 at 65hrc...
From reading exchanges between Marco and Jon on Dave Martell's old forum, it seems some 'traditional' makers in Japan feel that tempering steel is sacrilege. Is Mr. Watanabe that kind of guy?
Alvin Johnston gave me some unfinished blades of O1 and 1095 treated to RC 63 (O1) and RC 65 (1095). I only finished one of the 1095 blades (thinned it on a wet grinder until it flexed when glided over a ceramic hone) and made the ugliest handle ever seen on a knife. It was my unstoppable demon in our last home's creepy basement until I used it to cut Kydex thermoplastic. I deviated from the straight line cuts it made with ease and that's all she wrote. Still, it was my first, my last, my everything to slice straight through 0.093" Kydex stock with the same effort my Benchmade BM130 used for cutting up boxes. I no longer have a wet grinder or the other two blades he made me, but good times...
And why would someone do that to S110V
Those are the kind of arguments used to "prove" new alloys are all hype and no substance.
DIN 1.2552 isn't all hype and no substance, but it's new to me.
To answer why anyone would do that to S110V is "It's being used as a knife steel instead for its class of steel's general purpose as a die-cutter or for moldmaking. It's just one more in a bafflingly long line of steels that is sold with a spiel of "this steel is amazing for acting like a box cutter or a scalpel for very long periods of time, but the thing is, you need to sharpen it at a thicker angle than a splitting maul or it won't work and you need to find a custom maker if you want it ground thin and hardened to a point where the extra wear resistance of its carbides might make themselves present and there's no guarantees on that - only fanboys to belittle you if you don't like it. Go get 'em, Tiger!"
I doubt anyone is arguing that. Point is taking the right steel for the right job, with proper geometry.
When the 'proper' geometry stops including traditional knife angles, it stops being 'proper.'
And like you said below:
Me said:
blah blah blah sucks at non-cutting task blah blah blah
Or any abrasive material for that matter. There is no HT which will make 1095 ourperform S110V for that use, no geometry either.
True. S110V will generally be a better bridge between knife steel and carbide steel than 1095.