Brummie
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2007
- Messages
- 2,778
I’ve seen the review that says that the knife is dangerous because it lacks jimping and falls shut on your fingers, and can’t reliably be opened quickly because you can’t flick it with the thumb stud.
Here are my thoughts having played with it a bit:
- For me, the jimping is a non-issue. Given the size and shape of the handle, I find it perfectly secure. There are plenty of fixed blades that have zero jimping, but work just fine.
- It’s true that if you close this like a normal lockback, you’ll get cut. You need to remember to use a different technique. For me, I rotate it into reverse grip first, so the blade is pointing down when I release the lock. The issue here is not the difference between washers and bearings, it’s that unlike regular lockbacks, the lock bar is not in contact with the tang (and therefore applying resistance) throughout the blade action. So you need to be careful, but it’s not a deal-breaker for me.
- The other consequence of the action is that it is difficult to flick open with the thumb stud as reported. However, I find it pretty easy to just wrist flick open without using the thumb stud at all, so there’s still a fast opening option.
One other observation / question I have, though:
Unlike every other WE knife I’ve owned, there is some blade play. Not a lot, but if I grip the blade at the tip and wiggle it, there’s a slight, but noticeable vertical movement. I’d like to know from WE whether this is just because I got one that’s less than perfect, or (as I assume) a design issue with the lock mechanism (the width of the “window” on the lock bar means it seems to rest on the liners and doesn’t seat as deeply as it could when the knife is open).
Here are my thoughts having played with it a bit:
- For me, the jimping is a non-issue. Given the size and shape of the handle, I find it perfectly secure. There are plenty of fixed blades that have zero jimping, but work just fine.
- It’s true that if you close this like a normal lockback, you’ll get cut. You need to remember to use a different technique. For me, I rotate it into reverse grip first, so the blade is pointing down when I release the lock. The issue here is not the difference between washers and bearings, it’s that unlike regular lockbacks, the lock bar is not in contact with the tang (and therefore applying resistance) throughout the blade action. So you need to be careful, but it’s not a deal-breaker for me.
- The other consequence of the action is that it is difficult to flick open with the thumb stud as reported. However, I find it pretty easy to just wrist flick open without using the thumb stud at all, so there’s still a fast opening option.
One other observation / question I have, though:
Unlike every other WE knife I’ve owned, there is some blade play. Not a lot, but if I grip the blade at the tip and wiggle it, there’s a slight, but noticeable vertical movement. I’d like to know from WE whether this is just because I got one that’s less than perfect, or (as I assume) a design issue with the lock mechanism (the width of the “window” on the lock bar means it seems to rest on the liners and doesn’t seat as deeply as it could when the knife is open).
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