Boiled Linseed Oil and Danish Oil
- Thread starter tek77
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- Sep 12, 2009
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i've never used danish oil but i sure use the hell out of linseed. it seems to work well for me.
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- Nov 10, 2007
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I believe Danish has vanish added to it.Same with Tung Oil finish sold in Home Depot.Tung is great but you need to order pure stuff online.Kingfisher Bokens who are experts use teak oil at first which penetrates extremely well then linseed oil which lasts longer if I remember correctly.I think then sell a mix of teak and Linseed.I use linseed on my bokens,I use Tung on a few fancy fighting canes.Any will work.The oil from your hands from using tools even works.Just don't let the wood dry out with no use or no oil and you'll be good.
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- Sep 5, 2010
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I've used BLO on all the old tools at my Stepfather's workshop. Not only does it hydrate the wood, but adds a very nice feel to the handles. Use multiple applications, and you will have a nice finish, slick but not slippery.
I have a few Bokkens from Kingfisher, and yes their finish is awesome.
I have a few Bokkens from Kingfisher, and yes their finish is awesome.
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- Oct 9, 2009
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- 1,969
These are the steps I fallowed - except for the steel wool one:
1.Make sure the wood you are going to finish is clean and free of dust.
2.Rub liberal amounts of linseed oil into the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth. Continue applying until the wood won't absorb any more oil. Throw away cloths that get saturated with oil.(Be aware that they may self-ignite!!)
3.Buff the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth. Rub it until a finger touched on the wood doesn't pick up any oil.
4.Dry the wood overnight. It should be relatively warm while drying. A temperature of 70 degrees or higher is ideal.
5.Burnish the wood with "0000" steel wool after the first coat has dried.
Clean the surface of any dust and finish the wood again. You'll have to finish it at least 4 or 5 times.
Did I miss anything?
1.Make sure the wood you are going to finish is clean and free of dust.
2.Rub liberal amounts of linseed oil into the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth. Continue applying until the wood won't absorb any more oil. Throw away cloths that get saturated with oil.(Be aware that they may self-ignite!!)
3.Buff the wood with a clean, lint-free cloth. Rub it until a finger touched on the wood doesn't pick up any oil.
4.Dry the wood overnight. It should be relatively warm while drying. A temperature of 70 degrees or higher is ideal.
5.Burnish the wood with "0000" steel wool after the first coat has dried.
Clean the surface of any dust and finish the wood again. You'll have to finish it at least 4 or 5 times.
Did I miss anything?
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2007
- Messages
- 2,327
The trick I found when using BLO is that after drying and you want to wipe it off and/or buff it with a cloth it's too tacky.You just re-wet it with fresh Linseed oil and immediately wipe it off.
I have about 20 canes and bokens.This is trial and error.I don't think you need to let it soak more than 10 minutes before wiping off.BLO I believe from the woodworking sites I visited "Oxidizeses" which is why it turns tacky.At that point it is not penetrating.I keep applying and letting soak for 10 minutes or whatever is recommended on the instructions then wipe off,let dry for a day then reapply again the next day.Repeat as necessary.
I have about 20 canes and bokens.This is trial and error.I don't think you need to let it soak more than 10 minutes before wiping off.BLO I believe from the woodworking sites I visited "Oxidizeses" which is why it turns tacky.At that point it is not penetrating.I keep applying and letting soak for 10 minutes or whatever is recommended on the instructions then wipe off,let dry for a day then reapply again the next day.Repeat as necessary.
