Busse Knives, Salt Water, High Humidity, Hard Use... Tips On Keeping RUST @ Bay??

If I had a factory satin finish Busse I would remove the slabs and paint the steel under the scales with a anti corrosion primer and a anti corrosion alkyd epoxy paint.
 
Jaxx said:


Also, anyone recommend/not recommend DLC coating?

Thank you! :thumbup:
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That would be my area of expertise.

These coatings have come a long way. Used to be, I'd only recommend them for certain types of use. They would have difficulty adhering to the original surface, unless they were applied with extremely rigid quality controls. Even then, they'd often chip off.

It might be worth a try here, if it can be done inexpensively ... and by someone who actually knows what they are doing. It's still true that rigid controls must be used to get a good, durable coating. In particular, the surface finish needs to be right (not too rough, not too smooth) and there must be NO contamination present whatsoever -- on the surface of the knife and in the deposition chamber.

Needless to say, the slabs must be removed first and the knife cleaned very carefully, in multiple stages, and with the proper solvents and chemicals. The surface finish might need a little roughening, not sure about that.

Even if all goes very well, it's possible the coating might come out somewhat brittle. If that happens, you will soon begin chipping bits of it off.

That's the best advice I can give at this point. Hope it's of some use. I've mostly used these coatings for electronic parts and certain optics.

Yours in INFI ...
 
Mhawg---What you said, made the most sense to me, followed by Old Physics.
What the Hell are you taking about, Uncle Jarvis??!!
:)
 
A question.

Given that you are talking about both a Satin Blade and a Coating.

Why not just start out with a coated blade, That is how I would deal with the situation.

Add Krylon to the exposed edge, let the knife sit for a week before use, rinse in fresh water every day maybe wipe the knife on a pant's leg and that's about it.

If the knife is used every day, the use will keep the edge mostly free of rust.

A small crock stick for touching up and a stick type Easilap for any real sharpening and you are set for several weeks.

Kydex for the sheath.

Notice that I use no oil or wax, for such short use I would use nothing but friction and see how the knife does.

I used a SHSH for 2 years as a Truck toolbox knife, no oil, put 200,000 miles on the truck, drove Florida to Montreal, SoCal to BC and every where inbetween,in all weather, just wiped on leg after use.

Odd that different INFI knives rust or color differently side by side, just different Batches?

Exposed metal turned dark grey, that's about it
 
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Whenever I'm in the jungle I usually bring a lot of chapstick and carmex for this exact reason. I mainly apply to edges or areas that have been scraped. There are many auto products that seem to work well too. I find myself using the same waxxy rags I use to clean my Harley to clean my knives from time to time.
 
Wow, it's been a while since I posted, lol. Anyhow, what about putting a forced patina on the knife, say with mustard, vinegar, and/or lemon juice? Not sure how it would turn out with infi, but I got decent results on a gen 2 howling rat that I previously owned.
 
papathud said:
A question.

Given that you are talking about both a Satin Blade and a Coating.

Why not just start out with a coated blade, That is how I would deal with the situation.

Add Krylon to the exposed edge, let the knife sit for a week before use, rinse in fresh water every day maybe wipe the knife on a pant's leg and that's about it.

If the knife is used every day, the use will keep the edge mostly free of rust.

A small crock stick for touching up and a stick type Easilap for any real sharpening and you are set for several weeks.

Kydex for the sheath.

Notice that I use no oil or wax, for such short use I would use nothing but friction and see how the knife does.

I used a SHSH for 2 years as a Truck toolbox knife, no oil, put 200,000 miles on the truck, drove Florida to Montreal, SoCal to BC and every where inbetween,in all weather, just wiped on leg after use.

Odd that different INFI knives rust or color differently side by side, just different Batches?

Exposed metal turned dark grey, that's about it
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Well, the knife in question, a FBM proto, is already satin finished. I did suggest sending it to Busse for a coating, but the new owner wants to try a DLC treatment on it. He plans to use it extensively under the conditions posted. I plan to keep in touch with him to see how well it works and will try to get him to post pix of it in action. I posted this thread for a wider opinion under the scenario posted, and figured that I, as well as others here, could also learn some great tricks on care for our Busse's from those who know more. Your tips will definitely be remembered, good stuff! Thank you. :thumbup:

...You also got me thinking about this Johnny Cash tune... :D:thumbup:

[youtube]2eI4BumtpfA[/youtube]
 
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