Can you maintain a convex edge in the field with a diamond Sharpener or ceramic hone

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Mar 12, 2016
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I was just wondering if it's possible to maintain a convex edge in the field with a accusharp fine diamond sharpener or a ceramic hone?
 
Yes. As you pull the blade spine first across the stone (the same way you would strop it), slowly change the angle from shallow to higher angle and it should work. I have done it before. Practice on a cheap knife first and once you get the hang of it you will be able to do it with ease.

You could also get or make a field strop.
 
Yeah I use small circle motion on a DC 3 or 4 much like you would with an ax and a puck.
 
I find it easiest to hold the knife still (edge-up) and move my DMT diamond credit card sharpener around in a circular fashion.
 
Yup. Just sharpen it like a regular edge and don't worry about maintaining the convexity in the field. You'll be making a bit of a convex with freehand sharpening anyhow, and the main advantage of a convex is that it's like a flat bevel with the shoulder blended off, reducing thickness at the bevel transition. So if it thickens up over time with field sharpening, just knock the shoulder thickness down again.
 
A back & forth or circular freehand scrubbing motion on the hone will likely convex the bevels anyway. So, it works.

And if just a few touch-up strokes are needed in the field, simple light edge-leading passes will leave a bit of a microbevel. But even on a 'convex' edge, there's no harm in that either. Either can be just as sharp; that's all that matters.
 
Yes,you can maintain convex,or can give it small micro edge in field,you can fix that easily at home with sandpaper or stone,i just give it few strokes on dmt folding sharpener and its back to razor sharp,cuts same as long as micro bevel is really small almost invisible.
 
I touchup mu convex blades on sharpmaker too,and dmt,as long as micro bevel is small there isnt any difference in performance.
 
I like convexing on a mouse pad with sand paper (edge trailing). The problem in the field is finding a flat surface to put the mouse pad on.
 
You could cut a piece of ply wood the size of a mouse pad or 1/2 of a mouse pad, but then you have pack it and also find a good resting place for it when in use. I think neoprene foam is better than neoprene for this application.
I would rather carry a spare blade than fuss with sharpening off of the bench. A paddle would have to be flat.
 
Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it
A quick tip - if your efforts don't seem to be working, use the 'sharpie' method and paint the edge with a marker so that you can see where you are scraping material away while sharpening, then simply cause the hone to interact with the edge such that the marker is removed from each bevel-face all the way up to the apex.
 
Can also 'strop' on a simple, flat & smooth paddle of wood or whatever, with some wet/dry sandpaper glued or firmly affixed to it. Paint stir-sticks work great for this. Don't bother with mouse pad or other softish material backing the paper - you don't need it. The firmer the backing is, the crisper the apex will be as a result.

Lay the blade somewhat low in angle (contact behind the apex) to start the pass, then subtly raise the spine until just the cheeks of the apex are grazing the sandpaper. Don't raise the angle beyond that point. Keep the touch very light. That motion will naturally follow or induce some convex of it's own in the area behind the apex, and works very well on knives already starting out as convex. This very same method also works very well on a paddle with fabric like denim attached (glued) and some fairly aggressive polishing compound. Convex will become more polished this way, but can get hair-popping, wicked-sharp as well.
 
Yup. Just sharpen it like a regular edge and don't worry about maintaining the convexity in the field. You'll be making a bit of a convex with freehand sharpening anyhow, and the main advantage of a convex is that it's like a flat bevel with the shoulder blended off, reducing thickness at the bevel transition. So if it thickens up over time with field sharpening, just knock the shoulder thickness down again.

Great info and advice! :thumbsup:

I rarely see convex edges explained so simply and so well!
 
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