Can't decide - Manbug VG-10 vs Ladybug zdp-189 vs CS micro recon

Main EDC sometimes paired with SAK

  • Spyderco Manbug VG-10

    Votes: 13 27.7%
  • Spyderco Ladybug ZDP-189

    Votes: 17 36.2%
  • Cold Steel micro recon 1

    Votes: 7 14.9%
  • Spyderco Manbug ZDP-189

    Votes: 11 23.4%

  • Total voters
    47

Lacerdo

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
277
Guys I need your advice!
I have Delica, Dragonfly zdp and bunch of SAKs and Opinels. I used to have many different blades such as endura, tenacious, tuff lite, mini grip, full grip and so on. And I've carried them for quite some time. What I found is that I don't need a blade in my daily life. And if i need one it's usually reachable in seconds (kitchen drawer, car's glove box, office table, etc.). So I decided to retire all my full size EDC blades and go light with something on my keychain just in case.
So I faced dilemma - which one to choose for the same price (around $50) Spyderco manbug with VG-10 (with probably better grip and slightly beefier blade) or Ladybug ZDP-189 with better steel in even smaller package. As a third option - save some money and go tactical with sturdy Cold steel micro recon AUS-8a (half the price of spydie's).
Is manbug noticably better in hand than ladybug? Do I really need ZDP on my keyring? The knife is planned to be the ONLY edc blade on me with accasionaly accompany by SAK climber/spartan.
Again I don't really have any cutting tasks in my life and that knife is going to be just a fun toy for my knife essense.
Thank you all for your opinion and thoughts!
 
I found one more option - Ladybug with V-toku2 for about $45! Is v-toku2 better than VG-10 for small EDC tasks?
 
I have the Ladybug in V-Toku2. It is amazing, and I think it will fill the role you need wonderfully.

It's also a comparatively limited edition of the Ladybug, so it should appeal to your knife essence quite nicely.

Is it better than the VG-10 version for small EDC tasks? I doubt that I could tell you the difference on a knife this size and task orientation.

But it's a cool little laminated unit that rides a keychain like a pro, so go get it!
 
I have three Ladybugs and two Manbugs. They are all attached to 1 1/4" split ring key-rings with only two house keys. The split ring and keys add to the handling characteristics of each knife. I have big hands and feel the Manbugs fit me slightly better than the Ladybugs. My favorite is my HAP40 Manbug. If all I had was my V-Toku2 or SE VG-10 Ladybug I would not feel handicapped compared to a Manbug. I bought the Ladybug V-Toku2 over the Manbug V-Toku2 because it cost about $10 less. If I only had one Man/Ladybug to choose from and $10 was the only difference, I'd buy the Manbug.
 
I would go with a serrated h1 ladybug or Manbug personally. Better edge retention than any of those and it will act like a little box cutter that won't quit.
I'm sorry Bob6794 but could you please explain me how serrated H1 better than any other steel (let's say plain zdp)?
It's not a first time when I hear that H1 in serrated version is just a beast but I don't get it... H1 by itself is pretty soft steel and dulls quickly. I assume that heat treat is the same for both SE and PE. Then how serrations made H1 harder? Also maybe it make sense to take into consideration LB in VG-10 with serrations?
 
I voted for the ZDP-189 Ladybug.

If you can get by with a keychain knife for day to day tasks, I don't imagine you're going to need a harder use (tougher) steel than ZDP-189.

I just want to throw out there that if you look around a bit... There are still HAP40 Ladybugs to be had. That's what I'd go with.
 
I like my H-1 Man/Ladybugs. Unless you live in a swamp VG-10, ZDP-189. or a sprint is probably a better option. I personally find ZDP-189 difficult to sharpen, but it is a great steel. The M-L Bugs aint fighting knives, so get the one you like and can afford. Rig it out how you like and do not think twice about what others have to say.
 
I'm sorry Bob6794 but could you please explain me how serrated H1 better than any other steel (let's say plain zdp)?
It's not a first time when I hear that H1 in serrated version is just a beast but I don't get it... H1 by itself is pretty soft steel and dulls quickly. I assume that heat treat is the same for both SE and PE. Then how serrations made H1 harder? Also maybe it make sense to take into consideration LB in VG-10 with serrations?

Most steels to my understanding get around 2x the edge retention with Spyderco serrations over plain edge. H1 acts different and improves significantly more than that surpassing zdp in plain edge format and a few years ago was tested to have to highest edge retention of all steels used by Spyderco, tested by themselves in fact.

In real world use the serrations tips protect the cutting edges inside and also pierces the material. So I can tell you from real world experience with the Byrd knives that use 8cr13mov it's not a gimmick and it performance reminds me of d2 more than anything if not a little better.

H1 is also worked harder to somewhere in the 60s when the serrations are made but back towards the spine it will drop back to the 50s. This I've seen testing verifing this. I've heard people say normal sharpening work hardens it more and increases it's edge retention more but I haven't seen anyone back that up with any real testing yet.

I would highly recommend reading up on this for more information as it's quite an unusual and interesting steel.

Oh and zdp can be prone to chipping which for a small blade could be hard to avoid that area. That is why I wouldn't go that route.

Vg10 I have nothing bad to say about it. I would personally be deciding between this in plain edge or the serrated h1.

I've beaten up a Byrd Hawkbills fully serrated, and currently abusing a discontinued Byrd Robin fully serrated I tracked down. I may add a Cara Cara Rescue knife soon. All this to decide on blade shape and size before getting the h1. I do stuff like cut into bags of rocks weighing about 2000lbs to drop the material, slicing up a lot of cardboard, cutting cloth strips, plastic straps, plastic wrap, etc. I will say this Spyderco hit a home run with the serrations and it makes the puny Byrd Robin (dragonfly equivalent in size) a force to be reckoned with. They stand up to abuse so far better than anything else for these tasks.

Let me edit this last part in due to the work hardening nature of h1 the heat treat on the serrated version and plain edge is vastly different. Combined with the nature of serrations and you have a very significant difference. H1 in plain edge format I've often heard is comparable to Aus8 in edge retention and in serrated form something that will surpass zdp and other high wear resistant steels, combined with the inability to make it rust, and other perks of the serrations (in my opinion, but to each their own) makes it a very capable little blade.
 
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I said Ladybug ZDP-189.
I gave one to The Chef (purple) and liked it so much I got the British Green one a few weeks later for me. The Ladybug is the only thing she will carry everyday. She hates nail nicks and the Spydie hole suits her for opening the knife. I think she just two hands it.

I dig the heck out of the green and I think they had me in mind when they invented ZDP-189.
I looked at the Manbug but prefer the Ladybug.

Photos at this LINK > > >

Dude . . . you need to get some kind of part time gig so you can wield the good EDCs once again on a regular basis.
Office work during the day but do a little farm work early in the morning . . . some such.
:) :rolleyes:
 
I have both a Ladybug and a Manbug.
I prefer the blade shape on the Ladybug because it has a better point on it.
But the Manbug is what gets carried more frequently, because it fits my hand better.
I have medium hands.
 
IMG-20190331-191920446.jpg


All three are nice. The mini Recon is one bad little dude. It's awesome. Its well suited for the heavy use. Plus, it's cheap and so more forgivingly disposable. Makes you feel like Rambo.

Just know that the MR is a 2-finger, non-full grip design. You won't miss the missing length though with the design. Handles very well. No hot spots for me at least. I use a clip and ring for the rest of the handle.

IMG-20190331-193654027.jpg


I prefer the mini Lum.

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Thanks everybody for your replies! Every opinion was taken into consideration :) However I've spent several sleepless nights thinking about these bugs and still need your advises.
Here are my thoughts:
1) I think Cold Steel is out of the game. I'm a big fan of spyderhole and looks like the hole should be more convenient for cutting through materials especially on such small blades. Additionally Micro Recon weights just like Dragonfly.
2) I definitely don't have a need in H-1 steel. And don't feel like serrations will be more useful in my daily tasks.
3) The biggest problem is that I'm still hesitating between Ladybug and Manbug as well as between VG-10 and ZDP-189. I'm not sure where I can save some pennies and where it's worth to spend a little more.
Here are the options that I still consider to buy and their street prices I've found:
LB VG-10 saber grind - $35.00
LB V-toku2 FFF - $42.22
LB ZDP-189 FFG - $45.45
MB VG-10 FFG - $44.46
MB ZDP-189 FFG - $52.62
DF VG-10 FFG - $55.57 (but I already have DF in ZDP)
And here how I see it (and how I lost my sleep):
I tend to go cheap and take basic LB in VG-10 but it's saber grind. (By the way, is LB in saber grind noticeably worse than FFG in daily cutting? I'll take FFG delica over Saber Delica any day but I'm not sure if there is any difference in micro world since LB blade stock is just 2mm thick). For just $7 more I can take Sprint Run of LB with (better?) FFG.
But V-toku is carbon steel with all carbon problems. And it's just $3 less than legendary ZDP-189! So here we are at $45 and this is where MB starts. And if MB is better in hand and worth to overpay then for only $8 I can upgrade MB's steel from VG-10 to ZDP. And here I am looking at the price almost twice bigger than basic LB...
I'm totally discouraged :)
 
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ok guys! I'm gonna bother you last time. I pretty much made my decision on the model. I'll go with Manbug.
Last question I have for you is zdp vs vg-10.
I do have Delica in vg-10 and DF in zdp, but to be honest I haven't used them much so they never dull and I never sharpen them.
Here are my pros and cons on steels:
ZDP-189
+ one of the top steels for holding edge => less frequent sharpening (not gonna let you down unexpectedly in the office "field")
+ more toothy (as I've heard)
+ handle color not just plain black
- pain in the butt to sharpen
- more prone to brittle (is that true?)
- more expensive (~20%)
- prone to rust
VG-10
+ easy to sharpen
+ no issues with rust
+ 20% cheaper
+ Still delivers that "Seki-city-Japan-Spyderco-Usa-Spydyhole-HaveYouHeardSelCarrysOne?" feel.
- dulls quicker (but not sure how quicker?)
- "basic" feel (nothing exclusive - FRN+VG-10)
After you'll help me make my decision I promise to post here nice pictures with my new blade ;)
 
The Cold Steel may be built like a tank but it is a poor slicer compared to the Spyderco offerings. I pefer the Manbug because it has just enough dimensional difference from the Ladybug to make it easier to use and it is easier to one hand open.

Here is another option that I quite like, the Cold Steel Mini Tuff Lite: https://www.knifeworks.com/cold-steel-mini-tuff-lite-plain-edge-pink-grivory-handle.html
They have been discontinued and are getting hard to find in any color.
 
I have a bunch of keychain knives the Boker Keycom Is probably the best fit for the application. A little hard to open but then again if its on a keychain its not like it has to open fast.
 
All right guys, I just (unexpectedly for myself) won the auction on Manbug Hap40... When I'll get it I post here some pics and thoughts if you're interested :)
Again thank you for your thoughts, advises and sharing your experience.
By the way, is anybody heard about manbug counterfeits? I know there are bunch of fake dragonflies/delicas/enduras but what about manbugs?
Should I be suspicious and check everything on the blade/box/papers?
 
All right guys, I just (unexpectedly for myself) won the auction on Manbug Hap40... When I'll get it I post here some pics and thoughts if you're interested :)
Again thank you for your thoughts, advises and sharing your experience.
By the way, is anybody heard about manbug counterfeits? I know there are bunch of fake dragonflies/delicas/enduras but what about manbugs?
Should I be suspicious and check everything on the blade/box/papers?

Excellent choice! HAP40 is a heck of a steel, one of my favorites.

I doubt you'll have to worry about a counterfeit. If it was a standard Manbug, it would be more of a worry. Yours has a unique colored handle and a laminated steel blade. I doubt a counterfeiter would take the time to produce a knockoff with those complexities on a low price, low margin knife.
 
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