Cardboard cutter

[Nico Cappelli]

Not an answer to your question, but I just noticed you are from Forli. My grandparents are from Sassoferrato (just north of Fabriano).
Buona giornata!

Wow, sometimes the world is very Little!
Marche region is full of beautifull places, Sassoferrato is one of these! I bought an anvil near Gubbio, is very very old, i think it was forged before America was discovered. Italy is full of good kinfemakers, but don't ask they something too complicate in steels or geometry... Never get an answer...this forum instead is full of good informations and people ready to answer. Buona giornata anche a te!

I would be a little worried with the accuracy of you hardness tester. Those numbers are a bit high for just about any alloy. If I had to guess I would say your sitting around 5hrc lower then what your tester is showing. Even in the best situations with testers and standard test blocks your going to be sitting around +-1rc. We use tighter tolerance calibration blocks that are +-.5rc but thy are quite pricy. We just had to buy another one as we had completely used up the last one. We surface ground it down to a fresh surface but in all honesty it’s now at best a ballpark test block. It seams to measure the same as it did but nothing we would calibrate with.

You can get higher accuracy in hardness testing but generally requires a different tester and a much more strict surface condition. I think the industry’s standard is a tukon microhardness tester. It uses a 4 sided pointed diamond. You then use a microscope and measure the dimensions of the impression. This is way overkill for knives and would take way to long. Plus in all honesty you will not notice much if any difference between say a 60 and 61rc blade. But you sure as hell will if a blade is 55rc and your thinking it’s 60rc. So I circle back around to saying you should take a look at your tester and calibrate it have it calibrated.

My old german hardness tester was calibrated by a professional 2 years ago and I sometimes check it with the certified blocks, I have 2, one at 63. 5 hrc and one at 45. The error is + -1 obviously ... But not 5, absolutely. the surface of the tang is not cleaned well in the picture, but anyway I repeated the measurement after cleaning and the measured hardness is always the same. I am sure of this

Hardness is not everything when it comes to edge holding. People have tried to make tungsten carbide blades and does not work out so well. It’s so brittle that you can’t really put an appropriate edge bevel and angle and n it. Think of the ceramic kitchen knives, yeah thy are great till there not then thy suck way more.

Agree, because if you want to cut easily cardboard, you need a thin blade, thinh blade is brittle and chip easly if not made with adeguate tough material.

Once upon a time I had a cardboard deluge to deal with after a move.

I started out with a utility/razor knife.

THAT FRICKING SUCT!

Then I tried a longer knife which worked a lot better but still required considerable PHYSICAL efforts.

My wife happened upon me in the midst of my unceasing labors, took one look, walked off and came back with a cheap, beat to crap woodsaw (crosscut as if that factoid is important) from my discard box in the workshop. I've been using it ever since and it goes thru cardboard like a cat goes thru fancy feast. I've never cut myself with that saw nor has it been maintained in any way. Been going for years.

Just sayin......

Corey

I can hardly believe it ... But im full of old saws, I will try this crazy Way!a

 

[Natlek]

I can hardly believe it ... But im full of old saws, I will try this crazy Way!a

You'll be surprised how longer last edge sharpened with coarse grit .........one of my kitchen knife is sharpened on 40 grit ceramic.........

 

[Nico Cappelli]

You'll be surprised how longer last edge sharpened with coarse grit .........one of my kitchen knife is sharpened on 40 grit ceramic.........

It's very interesting! How remove burr after a coarse Sharpening?

 

[Natlek]

It's very interesting! How remove burr after a coarse Sharpening?

Like I do it with any of my knives.I just draw edge on corner of my strop tool several times and then strop on leather like any knives .............. I wish I can find way to sharpen knives with 40 grit on mu sharpening tool ........

 

[Nico Cappelli]

Let us see the final knife you come up with would be really cool,hey Stacey /Larrin thanks for your responses.I recently have seen some utility blades with carbide(Home depot) ,I would think these would last pretty long also but the 10v idea much more interessting

I'm sorry but there's nothing cool about it! It's just a tool with a very ugly design and a very rough finish! Only can cut the cardboard with an ease that a knife will never be able to! I found some problems in the realization of bevels, low angles and low thickness at same time are difficult to manager (for me)!

thickness at the edge

Spine and tip

Ugly but ergonomic motherboard backelite handle

Now let's work!

 

[BITEME]

Nice work, very ugly, not cool but I like it..

 

[Maelstrom78]

It is cool because you hand made it.

 

[BITEME]

Sorry

 

[Nico Cappelli]

Sorry

Nico - PLEASE DO NOT OFFER TO SELL IN SHOP TALK
This is a friendly warning, don't push it.


However, in the meantime, the cardboard cutter is working really hard! He seems to hold the edge impeccably but I still don't want to throw off the verdict.

 

[BITEME]

I didn't realize, but probably should have known better.....
love the design 10v just makes it that much better..you can private message me anytime with more info- thanks Gabe

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Editing out my warning isn't a good idea. It is there to stop you guys from continuing this buying/selling conduct. Bringing t back up after saying sorry is just as bad.

Both of you - Please do not bring it up again ... at all.

 

[tiguy7]

View attachment 1194524 I have had very good blade life using TiN coated bimetal (laminated) Lenox Gold blades. They rust before they wear out. They cost twice as much but last 3X as long.
A while ago somebody did a cardboard test using a Spyderco Military with an S-110-V blade. They cut 5 miles of cardboard before they got tired and went to bed.

 

[Sonnydaze]

CPM10V is my daily carry and I use the crap out of it. For me it’s a really hard steel to beat. But I went with spiderco folder in 10v.

Sir, what is the model of that 10V Spyderco folder...I'd like to take a look at the specs. thanx.

 

[Nico Cappelli]

I apologize, I didn't realize that the message I quoted had been edited by a moderator. And I didn't realize that I was doing something against the forum rules. I'm sorry.

View attachment 1194524 I have had very good blade life using TiN coated bimetal (laminated) Lenox Gold blades. They rust before they wear out. They cost twice as much but last 3X as long.
A while ago somebody did a cardboard test using a Spyderco Military with an S-110-V blade. They cut 5 miles of cardboard before they got tired and went to bed.

very interesting! If i can found coated blade for our utility knives i will try! Your utility knife have a good style! But for My work, that thin and long blade support can obstacolate cutting performance... Because tend to penetrate trough cardboard. I have one similar and this happens... This is why i have made a big "guard" , in order to stop blade penetration, like a limiter

 

[Nico Cappelli]

I feel compelled to share the results with you after a week of work with the 2 box cutters. I remember that both were sharpened at 15 ° dps 600 grit. The 10v (~ 61hrc) has a thickness behind edge of 0.25 mm against ~0.4 mm of the D
2 (~ 63hrc). Although they still both continue to cut well, these are the differences under the microscope.
D2 tip

10v tip

D2 edge

10v edge