- Joined
- Feb 28, 2007
- Messages
- 9,786
I was doing my spring yard work this afternoon and was using my Buck 119 as I usually do. This time I was chopping through the small branches and suckers, pruning the roses and giving the stupid umbrella tree (mulberry) we own its regular 3-week hair cut. As I was getting enthusiastic with my hacking I accidentally hit the brick of my house and knocked a big chip out of the blade about 1" from tip just where the blade starts to curve.
Not a problem - I finish my yard chore and get out the lansky rods (Yippee!). This time I took the advice of someone who posted earlier (apologies I searched but couldn't find the post and give credit where credit is due to the original poster). What I did was to take the course stone and manually work it (perpendicular to the blade) right over the edge itself. In other words, dulling the blade purposely by grinding the edge flat. This let me really quickly work the chip right out of the metal and re-shape the curve. It also gave me an opportunity to rectify my point that became rounded with a lot of earlier grinding and accidentally sliding the stone off the tip (I hate it when I do that but I'm sometimes I'm too impatient).
Once this was done, I set the knife into the Lansky clamp and proceeded to re-bevel at the 17o angle I usually use. The grinding of the flattened edge required that I spend more time than usual on the course stone to get the burr formed. However, I was really pleased with the result and there was absolutely no evidence of the original chip. I went through the medium and fine stones, micro-beveled at 25o with a crock-stik, stropped on my leather belt and now I'm all ready to chip that sucker again. It took about 40 minutes for the over-haul. Before I use just grind the blade like I was sharpening it until eventually the chip came out, but there was usually a trace of that chip after I was done.
I realize I need to get a 1095 blade for all that whacking, but the buck really does well on this if I could only keep from hitting metal fence poles and house bricks. Also the 17o bevel slices through spring wood like butter.
Not a problem - I finish my yard chore and get out the lansky rods (Yippee!). This time I took the advice of someone who posted earlier (apologies I searched but couldn't find the post and give credit where credit is due to the original poster). What I did was to take the course stone and manually work it (perpendicular to the blade) right over the edge itself. In other words, dulling the blade purposely by grinding the edge flat. This let me really quickly work the chip right out of the metal and re-shape the curve. It also gave me an opportunity to rectify my point that became rounded with a lot of earlier grinding and accidentally sliding the stone off the tip (I hate it when I do that but I'm sometimes I'm too impatient).
Once this was done, I set the knife into the Lansky clamp and proceeded to re-bevel at the 17o angle I usually use. The grinding of the flattened edge required that I spend more time than usual on the course stone to get the burr formed. However, I was really pleased with the result and there was absolutely no evidence of the original chip. I went through the medium and fine stones, micro-beveled at 25o with a crock-stik, stropped on my leather belt and now I'm all ready to chip that sucker again. It took about 40 minutes for the over-haul. Before I use just grind the blade like I was sharpening it until eventually the chip came out, but there was usually a trace of that chip after I was done.
I realize I need to get a 1095 blade for all that whacking, but the buck really does well on this if I could only keep from hitting metal fence poles and house bricks. Also the 17o bevel slices through spring wood like butter.