Clean Lines on Flat Grind - How Hard Can it Be On Thin Material??

With .080" stock I'd HT for sure BEFORE grinding. Helps prevent warp and makes grinding easier.
 
I don't do much other than full flat and I am sure it has nothing to do with getting perfect saber grinds. I will say using a jig is a option. Also I started using the push stick technique. If you cut a angle on your push stick it's a bit like a jig. It doesn't need to be exact but it will help you develop a nice flat that you can ride the rest of the way in. Grinding a fully hardened blade is also more consistent.
 
Last edited:
I agree with Avigil. If you start tilting the blade and placing the belt in the plunge grind notch you will end up with a trough at this point. Light finger pressure on the blade with a lite touch will allow you to find the proper place to position the blade.
 
Got it. Thank you all. Looks like along with that 2x72 grinder I need to set up a water system to grind cooler on thin hardened stock.... :)
 
Cushing H. said:
Got it. Thank you all. Looks like along with that 2x72 grinder I need to set up a water system to grind cooler on thin hardened stock.... :)
Click to expand...
You don't need anything super fancy. If you can turn your speed down a squirt bottle with some soapy water is what I use and it works great. If you are running fast you will need something more but I have seen where guys work out hanging a bottle that drips onto a sponge that just lightly contacts the belt. A little soap helps to wet out the belt and not to just get flung off.
 
i posted this about a week ago. This ulu at 0.06 was a nightmare as there's nothing to hold. This jig pretty well makes it fool proof. you can see the grind line i got one handed while filming with the other. It doesn't need to be this elaborate. Even a clamped down piece of wood with some shallow drill holes would work to hold the fixture.

I do suggest free handing but you can actually learn a lot on this jig. Things like how even the smallest angle change chases the grind.

 
Slight resurrection of this thread. My grinder is in! For grinding bevels, i seem to recall people saying start with a less aggressive belt ... but Avigil just posted saying he does the entire bevel at first with 60grit. I just got in some ceramic 140 grit. Should i be thinking more like 60 or 80? Again, this us rather thin stock ... and mistakes happen slower on finer grained belts, right?
 
Thin stock I start with a 50grit ceramic and thick stock I start with a 36grit. You can do it with 140grit it will just be slower and might take more then 1 140grit belt depending on what your making.
 
When I first started grinding I made about 20 blade blanks with mild steel. I didn't attempt to use the "good" steel until I was comfortable with my machine.
 
Volkert Forge said:
When I first started grinding I made about 20 blade blanks with mild steel. I didn't attempt to use the "good" steel until I was comfortable with my machine.
Click to expand...

I am impressed. I did that too, but at 4 kind of blades I lost patience starring at those bars of RWL 34 just sittning there, looking at me. Thank God there is hand sanding.
 
I started right into some 1074

Wait, what do we mean by "thin" stock?
I start my bevels on ~3mm blades (hardened) on 30 grit belts. I go to 120 maybe around 0.3mm edge thickness. The blade seems to get hotter with higher grits.
(not that I'm experienced enough to really recommend any approach)
 
Ah, maybe I should have checked the rest of the thread.
I'm definitely on board with the thinner is better policy for cooking knives!
 
Alex Topfer said:
Ah, maybe I should have checked the rest of the thread.
I'm definitely on board with the thinner is better policy for cooking knives!
Click to expand...
Agreed! In a little bit i am going to add something more to this thread: i think the Japanese makers “cheat” somewhat- giving a finished product that “looks” like a really clean bevel line - where in reality it is NOT. will post pictures and dscribe when i can...
 
Cushing H. said:
Slight resurrection of this thread. My grinder is in! For grinding bevels, i seem to recall people saying start with a less aggressive belt ... but Avigil just posted saying he does the entire bevel at first with 60grit. I just got in some ceramic 140 grit. Should i be thinking more like 60 or 80? Again, this us rather thin stock ... and mistakes happen slower on finer grained belts, right?
Click to expand...
Normal ceramic belts on only go to 120 on a X or Y weight backing. Going finer is not using belts in the sub 40 class. Using a 60 should be less aggressive and once you get close bring it in with a 80. Grinding after heat treatment will also help a lot. I find that it is more consistent than grinding soft. Sometimes I find that the belt will sometimes sorta catch and dig on a soft blade.
 
Oh yes, if you're not using a jig, definitely a push-stick with an angled tip that you can use to easily use to manipulate the pressure point. Approach the platen/belt slightly edge-first, and along the straight section of the blade, but NOT directly at the plunge. Approach with a light grip to guide gently and also let the blade find it's mated belt surface. Developing a little feel takes time. Once the bevel mates to the belt, then move to and fro as necessary. Then straighten your blade before you move to the other side... maybe even before that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top