Cold Steel Survivalist 52100

52100 is my favorite high carbon steel: tough, very fine grained, takes a fantastic edge, and can be sharpened on about any hone, though diamond works well. About the only downside is that it will rust easily, but that's not a big problem for a knife that's in regular use. My Marble's Campcraft and Fieldcraft in 52100 are two of the sharpest knives in my collection -- both produced when Mike Stewart was there.
 
jdk1 jdk1 How long does that blued coat last?
Not too long with use, as its just a cold blue. It helps some and looks good. For strictly utilitarian protection, the factory coating will work pretty well. It will definitely drag on wood, but use will quickly wear it off of the contact areas. If it was my hit the woods and never look back knife, I'd leave it on to protect areas like the handle and guards.

For my use, I wanted something kind of elegant since the knife, overall, is a really good looking design. I'd love to have some ivory Micarta slabs for the handle and have it hot blued. It would be stunning!

Here's a pic of the sheath I made for mine. The factory sheath worked well, but, again, I thought the knife deserved leather.

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I respect the SRK, I really do. It is one of the best Cold Steel models. But I'm thinking long term, and the Survivalist seems to win in this aspect. I'm not planning on abusing my knives beyond their capabilities, but I've read that SRK handles can become loose after lots of use because the handle is just fitted/pressed and held by the lanyard hole as opposed to molded or glued. The survivalist can do better batoning and chopping, and together with the hunter, I have the best woods combo.
The SRK is the jack of all trades, a very good knife, but for my needs, I'm gonna have to take the Survivalist. The G-10 handles are a nice addition together with the new coating (I don't mind if it wears out).
The kraton handles are very strong, but will they outperform solid steel in durability? Don't think so. I've seen videos on youtube where guys cut or damaged their kraton handles while batoning or chopping on their SRK's.
Remember also that the SRK is a rat tail tang.
Take into account Cold Steel has been sold to GSM, so I'm trying to make the best buy in case quality declines or company closes and warranty is anulled.

Take the Survivalist. It's a great looking knife and should perform well. And certainly can't beat the bang for the buck. If I didn't already have SRKs and TM's I'd look at that too.
No one's trying to get you to choose the SRK over the Survivalist., I'm simply pointing out that there's no need to find fault with the SRK to justify choosing the Survivalist. As you say there are videos of damage on Kraton handles. But the SRK has been in production for over 30 years and the sheer numbers of them out there are going to show some issues. The Survivalist was only introduced a couple of years ago, I believe. Making the numbers out there in the hands of users nowhere near as comparable. The SRK has a long history from the Camillus (Carbon V) to Kinryu Seki (Aus8,VG1,VG1SM)) to now Taiwan(SK5,VG10SM,3V). The "indestructable" reputation of this model is well established.
Cold Steel SRK, what can it take? - YouTube
The Survivalist, on paper "should" be even more rugged by it's design. But some CS knives coming out of Taiwan recently have had quality issues indicating a HT problem. In other words, you can't just go by paper specs. History is also important.
As for rat-tail, the SRK is not considered a rat-tail by many because it is a hidden 1/2 inch tang. Compare that to a real rat tail like on the Laredo. The Survivalist uses a profile from the Recon Scout, a knife with a Kraton handle and hidden tang that served in Operation Desert Storm.
To date I have never heard of the tang breaking on an SRK (or any similar CS design). With the survivalist, IF there was a quality problem, I could imagine the handle actually breaking. But handles breaking simply is not a common occurrence with any fixed blade knife. Modern or otherwise.

So, get the Survivalist, it's great looking and should perform well. Post your experience with it. And if the model continues for a couple of decades I might come around to say it's "better" than some other models. It takes buyers like you to establish a history.
 
A good knife is a good knife, regardless of whether or not it is considered a 'classic' design. For instance, the Cold Steel Trailmaster was a good knife when it first came out, long before it had achieved 'classic'(or cult) status. The Survivalist is a good knife, pared down to basics. Whether it becomes a classic or a sleeper remains to be seen. Doesn't change the fact that it's a good knife.
 
Fellas one more question.
I decided for the Droo Forged Survivalist over the SRK, now my plan was to combo the survivalist with the drop forged hunter, but I took a look at the Gerber Strongarm and I'm having doubts.

They are similar in size, but I feel I could get more done with the strongarm, plus I'm getting a comfortable handle and a better blade shape. Also watching youtube videos it seems indestructible.

Comparison: https://www.lamnia.com/en/product-comparison

What do you think? Should I get the Hunter? Which one is better for the bushes? Do centimeters matter? Do steels compare too much?
 
Fellas one more question.
I decided for the Droo Forged Survivalist over the SRK, now my plan was to combo the survivalist with the drop forged hunter, but I took a look at the Gerber Strongarm and I'm having doubts.

They are similar in size, but I feel I could get more done with the strongarm, plus I'm getting a comfortable handle and a better blade shape. Also watching youtube videos it seems indestructible.

Comparison: https://www.lamnia.com/en/product-comparison

What do you think? Should I get the Hunter? Which one is better for the bushes? Do centimeters matter? Do steels compare too much?
I’m more likely to combo something like a bird & game or mini tac with the survivalist.
 
I’m more likely to combo something like a bird & game or mini tac with the survivalist.

Yeah, the Mini Tac is neat. The Bowie is a great shape on this little guy.

OP, if you like the Strongarm then get one. Tough, easy to maintain, corrosion resistant and affordable.
 
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Got both of those,too.The strongarm is a good knife,great handle and sheath.Drop forged hunter is a bit smaller ,real sharp blade handle not as good as the strongarm. I filled in the handle with black permatex,it definitely gives the handle a better grip.Too bad they dont have one with similar plastic inserts like the survivalist.
 
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Dumb question. Definitely getting the strongarm.
Now I got the survivalist = Bowie/Machete
Strongarm = Tactical Survival versatile knife (Right size for most tasks, simple steel, good build)
And I'm probably gonna get a Cold Steel True Flight Thrower as a last resort backup (gotta love paracord knives)
Anyone got tips on a good paracird survival knife? The True flight is good but it doesn't have a belly so chopping will be hard, and the sheath is nothing to be proud of. But I know i can trust Cold Steel in regards to quality overall
 
Dumb question. Definitely getting the strongarm.
Now I got the survivalist = Bowie/Machete
Strongarm = Tactical Survival versatile knife (Right size for most tasks, simple steel, good build)
And I'm probably gonna get a Cold Steel True Flight Thrower as a last resort backup (gotta love paracord knives)
Anyone got tips on a good paracird survival knife? The True flight is good but it doesn't have a belly so chopping will be hard, and the sheath is nothing to be proud of. But I know i can trust Cold Steel in regards to quality overall
I would not recommend getting a throwing knife , except to primarily use for throwing .

Purpose built throwing knives are generally softer steel /HT and thick edged grinds . Made to withstand throwing but awful for slicing or other regular utility .

Better to find a regular decent knife that can also be thrown , if necessary .
 
... gerber strongarm?? - that stuff is plain 420 steel - it's really soft, the only benefit is it's stainless... you'd be better off getting a buck in 420hc

you should really stick with 52100, the steel is a much better overall performer
 
52100 has better edge retention than 1095. It is significantly tougher than 1095.

Corrosion is similar to 1095.

As for sharpening, I've found 52100 great to sharpen. No trouble at all.
 
... gerber strongarm?? - that stuff is plain 420 steel - it's really soft, the only benefit is it's stainless... you'd be better off getting a buck in 420hc

The Strongarm is 420HC. Don't know if you are inferring that it's some other 420 grade, but it isn't.

I've got the Buck 119 in 420HC, and the Strongarm in 420HC. Both are awesome, tough and easy to maintain, but they are different knives.

For the OP's purposes, I'd point him toward the Strongarm.
 
Definitely made a good choice getting the Strongarm. I've had mine since the black friday sale of 2017 if I remember right. I've carried, used and beat the snot out of mine. It is a great, all-arounder and easy to use and maintain. Hope you enjoy it.
 
At this point in time, I can't think of a better option other than the strongarm.
Surely it has gained fame for its design and toughness and hey, it cuts.
I hear the heat treatment is excellent.
420 is an easy ride.
I think itd follow nicely along the DF Survivalist.
 
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