Recommendation? Cold Steel Trail Master re-handle

K

Kepp52

Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Messages
5
Hello all, I’m not sure if I’m in the correct area to post this, so apologies in advance if I’m wrong. My CS Trailmaster is in need of a re-handling (I lack the expertise, space and tools to attempt this) and I was wondering if any of you have any experience in this endeavor or know of any custom knife guys on this forum who can re-handle a Trailmaster?

I am interested in getting it re-handled in Micarta or leather, not sure which yet.

Any ideas on how to go about doing this? Pics of re-handled CS Trailmasters are welcome as well, if you have em. Thanks guys.
 
This question comes up often. I wish that Cold Steel, or some of our creative knife makers, would come up with a simple aftermarket bolt on kit to replace the rubber handle with a Micarta or G10 sleeve or scales.

n2s
 
not2sharp said:
This question comes up often. I wish that Cold Steel, or some of our creative knife makers, would come up with a simple aftermarket bolt on kit to replace the rubber handle with a Micarta or G10 sleeve or scales.

n2s
Click to expand...
You are preaching to the choir man. An aftermarket bolt on handle kit for the CS TM would be a genius solution. And the rubber handles are easy enough to remove with a utility blade from what I hear.

Anyone know of any solutions like this or are us Trailmaster owners doomed to having to ship our knives off for re-handling services or buying expensive custom bowies to our specifications?
 
Here's a Trail Master re-handle.
9oglZG.jpg

A Cold Steel Trailmaster Bowie Custom Re-Handle - Paco Kelly's Leverguns.com (levergunscommunity.org)

Also these people do lots of re-handles includuing many Trail Masters.
Sunrise River Custom Knives (sunrisecustomknives.com)
 
02a.jpg


So using this Sunrise conversion as an example:
- I would get rid of the handle pins
- Go with a one piece handle
- Keep the brass pommel
- Add a few thin spacers near the guard
- Go with a solid brass pin where the lanyard tube is
- Machine a lanyard slot into lower (edge) side of the pommel

To assemble: you cut off the rubber handle and lanyard tube, slide the new G10/micarta handle over the exposed tang, and align the lanyard hole (use the spacers as desired to get a good tight fit). Then press/drive a solid brass retention pin through the pommel and original blade lanyard hole (similar to the Kabar MKII). Perhaps recess the pommel (lanyard hole) slightly on either side and prep the brass pin so you can set it with a punch. Which would keep the pin from ever backing out of the slot.

It would be something that just about anyone can can accomplish in minutes with a few common tools (utility knife, hammer, hacksaw, small punch). Price the kit at around $40-45 and you would sell many thousands of them. The more contoured, name plate, or sub-hilt versions would cost a little more. :)

n2s
 
Last edited:
So, related question:

Is there a place where I can get a new guard that will fit the Trailmaster tang? I have a 20 year old trailmaster that is in good shape short of the handle having come loose and the guard is bent just enough that it bothers me. I think I could probably do a decent epoxy/pin job with a nice single piece of antler, but I want to replace the guard. Stock would be fine, but I might go a big wider since the handle will most likely be bigger/more ornate.

Anyone know where one could find a guard that would require low/no fit on a trailmaster?
 
You pretty much have to have a big solid butt cap for a retaining pin or lanyard tube to go through (stag can be done as shown but is just held on by glue). Also the tang might be welded on. Beyond that you can do almost anything. Check on the custom work provided subforum?
 
Will do. I’ll check around the custom sub forum area for someone that can do a re-handle.
 
not2sharp said:
02a.jpg


So using this Sunrise conversion as an example:
- I would get rid of the handle pins
- Go with a one piece handle
- Keep the brass pommel
- Add a few thin spacers near the guard
- Go with a solid brass pin where the lanyard tube is
- Machine a lanyard slot into lower (edge) side of the pommel

To assemble: you cut off the rubber handle and lanyard tube, slide the new G10/micarta handle over the exposed tang, and align the lanyard hole (use the spacers as desired to get a good tight fit). Then press/drive a solid brass retention pin through the pommel and original blade lanyard hole (similar to the Kabar MKII). Perhaps recess the pommel (lanyard hole) slightly on either side and prep the brass pin so you can set it with a punch. Which would keep the pin from ever backing out of the slot.

It would be something that just about anyone can can accomplish in minutes with a few common tools (utility knife, hammer, hacksaw, small punch). Price the kit at around $40-45 and you would sell many thousands of them. The more contoured, name plate, or sub-hilt versions would cost a little more. :)

n2s
Click to expand...

ManRay said:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/re-handling-my-trailmaster.1614223/#post-18450090

View attachment 1492518
Click to expand...

Fantastic.
 
kT4PKjL.jpg

Handle removed,template made.Holes marked for corby bolts.
NzwhSlJ.jpg

Canvas micarta scales,brass corby bolts and lanyard tube.
UKJUtY7.jpg

Holes drilled,micarta slotted,handle rough shaped to template.
J99cHW1.jpg

"Dry" assembly (no glue)
DEEngYP.jpg

Looking good so far.
n6lfeCa.jpg

Glued and screwed,edges rounded and final sanding done.
From here,either polish to nice shine or leave as is.
Relatively simple and easy to do.:thumbsup:
 
zanussi01 said:
kT4PKjL.jpg

Handle removed,template made.Holes marked for corby bolts.
NzwhSlJ.jpg

Canvas micarta scales,brass corby bolts and lanyard tube.
UKJUtY7.jpg

Holes drilled,micarta slotted,handle rough shaped to template.
J99cHW1.jpg

"Dry" assembly (no glue)
DEEngYP.jpg

Looking good so far.
n6lfeCa.jpg

Glued and screwed,edges rounded and final sanding done.
From here,either polish to nice shine or leave as is.
Relatively simple and easy to do.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Awesome job! :thumbsup:
 
Yes, that was an awesome rehandle job! I was thinking about doing the same to my Trailmaster, using Micarta and fitting it the exactly same way.

One question....how do the edges of the two Micarta halves look where they come together on the top and bottom of the handle?
 
cs007,good question!
To answer this,pretty much the same as in the pic above showing the two halves bolted up,you dont see the join.
Just make sure you sand the "shine" off the inside faces before you glue them.
I sand these with 36-40 grit by hand on a piece of thick glass.(this is my "flat sander")

Also note that the tang has a slight taper from the ricasso to the pommel end.
Its not much,but enough to have to remove a little more material at the guard end of the handle were the tang goes.
To get this right,you should be able to hold both scales together and slide the tang in without it forcing the scales apart.
Hope this helps.:thumbsup:

Thanks GeofS,
Much appreciated.
I've done about half a dozen TM rehandles,all slightly different from micarta,wood,stag etc.
This is the only one I have managed to keep to date,as the others all sold,most before I had finished them!:thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top