Recommendation? Condition Ceramic stone

I'm glad it worked out well for you. I thought it would. Another talented craftsman straightened a Spyderco ceramic stone by using only hand tools. Aren't you glad you didn't send it in. DM
 
David, thanks for the reply. It did work for me. About the “out of flat” thing....when I drew a criss cross pattern and began lapping/conditioning....it was obvious that, while it was not dead nuts flat, it was very close. Not so “out of flat” that I would have complained to Spyderco or even brought the issue up on a forum. It was....but negligible. I agree....freehand users are going to bring more degree of error than the “out of flat” I saw in this stone. Because I use guided sharpening, I wanted it as flat as I could reasonably get it. Spyderco would have never heard (or will hear) a complaint from me.

But I also understand the degree of precision that some (straight razors) users need. So no argument there either.

I just wanted this Old Old Old stone to cut better. I achieved that .... finally. Super happy too.

So to any of you reading, take from my experience what you will. If your Spyderco ceramic isn’t cutting like it should, use what works for you. If a diamond plate works, use it. For me and my OLD fine stone, it was 60 grit loose SiC powder. Then I used 120 grit powder. Simply transformed the stone to what I was wanting. Polished, but aggressive!
 
eKretz said:
Speaking from the perspective of a machinist, it's not easy to grind something this thin with this much surface area perfectly flat. Even the act of clamping it in a vise or fixture can distort the thing a tiny bit, then you grind it flat but when it's released from the holding fixture or vise it springs back from that distorted state. My own Spyderco 3" x 8" UF was a little out of flat but for knives it was fine. Since I planned to use it for razors I flattened and resurfaced it on one side. One side I use for razors, one side for knives. Here is a decent image comparison of the difference between the two sides as far as texture:

Factory finished side:

20180909_224307.jpg


Flattened and refinished side:

20180909_224329.jpg


Note that the grooves visible in the factory side from the diamond grinding wheel can barely be felt with a finger.
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This what I am looking to do I have some older dia sharp diamond plates 300,600,1200 would these be able to accomplish a finish like you have shown?
 
Josh Rathbun said:
This what I am looking to do I have some older dia sharp diamond plates 300,600,1200 would these be able to accomplish a finish like you have shown?
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Not exactly, but they will do the job. The amount of use on your diamond plates will play a role. In my experience if the diamond plates are well worn, they will do more glazing/ polishing than cutting. I prefer loose grit abrasive personally, at least for the final step. This will produce a surface that cuts a little better even at a high level of finish. As described by Mr. Wizard, the effect is textured almost like a very fine sandblast. If you are set on the diamond plate, I'd stop before 1200. Maybe just the 300. Try and see how it does. You certainly won't hurt the hone in any way that can't be remedied.
 
eKretz said:
Not exactly, but they will do the job. The amount of use on your diamond plates will play a role. In my experience if the diamond plates are well worn, they will do more glazing/ polishing than cutting. I prefer loose grit abrasive personally, at least for the final step. This will produce a surface that cuts a little better even at a high level of finish. As described by Mr. Wizard, the effect is textured almost like a very fine sandblast. If you are set on the diamond plate, I'd stop before 1200. Maybe just the 300. Try and see how it does. You certainly won't hurt the hone in any way that can't be remedied.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I think I will order some SiC powder and go that route. I am looking forward to seeing the results.
 
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